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08-10-2007, 09:14 AM
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#16
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Little Elm, Texas
Posts: 13,481
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The fuse under the hood is to protect the wire as it runs through the vehicle. You're fusing the wire, not the components at this point.
Besides that, if he's determined that he needs to run 4 gauge wire, chances are he's going to be pullng more than 60 amps of current.
The fuse up front shouldn't be grossly under rated for the complete system, nor should it be grossly over rated.
This is why it's critical that we know how big his amp is and what it's fuse rating is.
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08-10-2007, 05:12 PM
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#17
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sao Paulo, Brazil
Posts: 235
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AMP specs
My Kenwood HU and AMP are already installed. Bought them in 2002.
Kenwood KDC-X859
- Specs I found in the web: - 50 watts x 4
- 2 pairs of RCA (4,5V) + 1 pair for subwoofer - Some pics I found: http://www.ivox.com.br/produto/?dir=...301/6350:64955
Audiobank Power Mosfet KA 4070
- Specs I found in the web: - 4 x 100 rms 2 ohms
- 4 x 75 rms 4 ohms
- 2 x brigde 180 rms 4 ohms - Some pics I found: http://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-61184988-_JM
I hope these specs are enough. If not, tell me and I will search for its manuals. They are already installed in the car, I didnt see the installation, but I can see that there is a fuse in the hood and that's it.
In my diagram I used 4 awg wire just because I read many people using it. Is it overkill in my case? If there is no problem, I would prefer using the thicker wire for safety.
Thanks!!!
__________________
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1995 Civic Sedan EX
CarPC status: [ ||||||||||||] 100% - Phase 1 Complete!
YouTube video - WorkLog
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08-11-2007, 08:00 PM
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#18
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Lisburn
Posts: 115
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Hi mate. I think the 4awg wire is the correct one. as i understand you calculate your max draw, total watts. the amps are 200+400watts+160watts(m2-atx)=760watts. then amps=watts/volts=760/13.5=56.29AMPS
From this post: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/car-...-see-here.html
see what lenght you need positive wire and you might get away with 8awg
I would agree with RedGTiVR6 that you would'nt get better ground than wiring strait to the battery's negative.
All amps and PSU has theyr own fuses, so the fuse you are installing is for wire.
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08-11-2007, 08:46 PM
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#19
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sao Paulo, Brazil
Posts: 235
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Quote: Originally Posted by moleman 
Everything looks fine, you may want to put a fuse between the distribution block and the carpc just to be on the safe side. Don't want 125 amps shooting into your M2.
I heard of distribution block with fuses. The M2-ATX comes with a fuse built-in, so you recommend an additional fuse in the wire?
Quote: Originally Posted by moleman 
I think the lilliput power cable uses 18 gauge (...) Oh and I would recommend putting a fuse on this line too. Screens are expensive to replace.
Good idea. I would need to determine the fuse size for the Lilliput and the M2-ATX.
Quote: Originally Posted by moleman 
Oh, and are you powering that USB hub? (...) it a lot easier.
I would use it for the keyboard and pen-drive, currently not powered. But I am considering that. Good point.
Quote: Originally Posted by moleman 
Hope that helps.
Thank you!
__________________
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1995 Civic Sedan EX
CarPC status: [ ||||||||||||] 100% - Phase 1 Complete!
YouTube video - WorkLog
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08-11-2007, 08:50 PM
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#20
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sao Paulo, Brazil
Posts: 235
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Quote: Originally Posted by agniusm 
Hi mate. I think the 4awg wire is the correct one. as i understand you calculate your max draw, total watts. the amps are 200+400watts+160watts(m2-atx)=760watts. then amps=watts/volts=760/13.5=56.29AMPS
In the 760watts calculation, what is the 200? 400 is the amplifier.
Quote: Originally Posted by agniusm 
I think that 4 awg is better, just for safety, but I am concerned about voltage drop and wire costs (have no idea).
Quote: Originally Posted by agniusm 
I would agree with RedGTiVR6 that you would'nt get better ground than wiring strait to the battery's negative.
All amps and PSU has theyr own fuses, so the fuse you are installing is for wire.
I was thinking of buying a distribution block with fuses, so there will be extra protection for each device (Lilliput, M2-ATX).
__________________
\/ |_ /\ [)
1995 Civic Sedan EX
CarPC status: [ ||||||||||||] 100% - Phase 1 Complete!
YouTube video - WorkLog
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08-13-2007, 08:36 PM
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#21
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Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 26
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vlad, you're right. I forgot the M2 had a fuse. Sorry about that.
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08-15-2007, 02:41 AM
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#22
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 465
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You can get high quality wire on ebay for pretty cheap. I wouldn't go less than 4 awg.
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08-30-2007, 01:49 PM
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#23
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Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: MA
Posts: 36
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Quote: Originally Posted by agniusm 
Hi mate. I think the 4awg wire is the correct one. as i understand you calculate your max draw, total watts. the amps are 200+400watts+160watts(m2-atx)=760watts. then amps=watts/volts=760/13.5=56.29AMPS
Hello,
Can anyone tell me if the 13.5V used in the calculation above represents the battery voltage? And if so, why is it 13.5, instead of 14, or some other number?
Thanks!
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08-30-2007, 02:18 PM
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#24
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Little Elm, Texas
Posts: 13,481
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Yes, that is the battery voltage (or more proper - the alternator output voltage) When a car is running 13.5 v is more typical than 14 v.
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08-30-2007, 03:11 PM
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#25
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Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: MA
Posts: 36
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Thanks for the answer, Red!
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09-13-2007, 06:56 PM
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#26
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sao Paulo, Brazil
Posts: 235
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New diagram - All changed
Hello,
Here is the latest version of my wiring diagram, lots of changes!
Notes:
- I took the car to my friend's audio store and they wired the car using this diagram
- Due to their mistake, the guy used a 9mm (~00 awg) wire instead of the 6mm wire (~2awg). They won't charge extra for that, it was their mistake. Is this a problem (to have a thicker wire)?
- We used a breaker instead of a fuse in the hood. It is placed ~20 inches far from the battery.
- We grounded everything to the near spot on chassis, eg Lilliput is grounded in the chassis near the dash, M2-ATX and AMP are grounded to chassis in the trunk.
I appreciate your comments, I can still change the wiring if needed.
This weekend I will plug the devices and finally test the CarPC in the Car (the next step would be dash fabrication).
Thanks again!
__________________
\/ |_ /\ [)
1995 Civic Sedan EX
CarPC status: [ ||||||||||||] 100% - Phase 1 Complete!
YouTube video - WorkLog
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09-16-2007, 07:02 PM
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#27
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sao Paulo, Brazil
Posts: 235
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Please, any comments?
Thanks!
__________________
\/ |_ /\ [)
1995 Civic Sedan EX
CarPC status: [ ||||||||||||] 100% - Phase 1 Complete!
YouTube video - WorkLog
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09-17-2007, 05:42 PM
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#28
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sao Paulo, Brazil
Posts: 235
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Rev 1.6 - Small change
I've added one USB extension directly from the Lilliput to the PC.
Using the Hub for the Lilliput is not recommended, as the TS sometimes are not recognized.
This is not just a plan, its now implemented in the car since last saturday (3 days).
It is working, just want to ask your help to read previous post with few questions and tell me if its OK or something needs to change.
Thanks!
__________________
\/ |_ /\ [)
1995 Civic Sedan EX
CarPC status: [ ||||||||||||] 100% - Phase 1 Complete!
YouTube video - WorkLog
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09-17-2007, 11:16 PM
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#29
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Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 18
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How did you make your diagram if you don't mind me asking? Did you use Visio or something?
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09-18-2007, 09:07 AM
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#30
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sao Paulo, Brazil
Posts: 235
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PPT file attached
Quote: Originally Posted by grimmy311 
How did you make your diagram if you don't mind me asking? Did you use Visio or something?
Hi, no I used powerpoint  .
I am attaching here the PPT file, if somebody wants it.
__________________
\/ |_ /\ [)
1995 Civic Sedan EX
CarPC status: [ ||||||||||||] 100% - Phase 1 Complete!
YouTube video - WorkLog
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