DS-ATX - Red LED, but no power

WiCKeD 5.9L · 08-11-2007, 11:33 PM

Just installed the DS-ATX into my car and the only activity I am getting from it is the red LED. Using the same wiring configuration I used for an M1-ATX, M2-ATX and Opus 150w, so it should be working...

I have flipped the power connector on the DS-ATX and motherboard (all 4 combinations). ACC is soldered from the fuse for the [insert something that turns on with the car] straight to the ACC input on the DS-ATX and the amp turn-on also connects to this. Amps turn on when car is put in accessory position and DS-ATX red LED turns on. Amps and DS-ATX stay on when I take the key out of the ignition. I have to pull the battery to turn everything off.

Motherboard is the MSI 945GM2 Fuzzy, which has no P4 connector. PC was just working with the Opus 150w and connected to an AC PSU. I switched to the DS-ATX, because I wanted something smaller that would fit in my case.

Any ideas?

zootjeff · 08-12-2007, 01:38 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by WiCKeD 5.9L

Just installed the DS-ATX into my car and the only activity I am getting from it is the red LED. Using the same wiring configuration I used for an M1-ATX, M2-ATX and Opus 150w, so it should be working...

I have flipped the power connector on the DS-ATX and motherboard (all 4 combinations). ACC is soldered to the fuse for the windshield wires, straight to the ACC input on the DS-ATX and the amp turn-on also connects to this. Amps turn on when car is put in accessory position and DS-ATX red LED turns on. Amps and DS-ATX stay on when I take the key out of the ignition. I have to pull the battery to turn everything off.

Motherboard is the MSI 945GM2 Fuzzy, which has no P4 connector. PC was just working with the Opus 150w and connected to an AC PSU. I switched to the DS-ATX, because I wanted something smaller that would fit in my case.

Any ideas?

Can you draw a diagram? Is the LED flashing as the amps are staying on?

Sounds like it's in the countdown mode..

But if your amp turn on is from the acc and not the DSATX, how could the DSATX cause your amps to stay on?

WiCKeD 5.9L · 08-12-2007, 09:31 AM

DS-ATX LED is solid red. The ACC line is nothing more than a pass-through to the amps. The DS-ATX is not controlling them.

My main concern is why the PC is not turning on. According to the manual "LED ON = Running Mode" so it should be working.

Zoltan · 08-12-2007, 11:10 AM

Have you tried making the inverted polarity switch cable?

Try momentarily shorting the power button pins on your mobo, and see if it powers up. If it does, it's just not getting the signal from the psu.

WiCKeD 5.9L · 08-12-2007, 11:52 AM

Would I need to if this motherboard already works on other PSUs? I also tried connecting the case power switch and turning it on manually, but no joy.

zootjeff · 08-12-2007, 02:01 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by WiCKeD 5.9L

DS-ATX LED is solid red. The ACC line is nothing more than a pass-through to the amps. The DS-ATX is not controlling them.

My main concern is why the PC is not turning on. According to the manual "LED ON = Running Mode" so it should be working.

On the DSATX the LED means the DSATX is capable of providing power to the computer. It doesn't mean the computer is on. The computer has to be turned on either by the jumper to the power switch or via manual switch.

If the LED is off, there is no way the computer could come on. It's the state of the DSATX not the computer.

WiCKeD 5.9L · 08-12-2007, 02:32 PM

zoot I understand that. I just don't understand why it's not sending the signal to the board. Either I am doing something wrong or it's bad.

I will try your reverse polarity switch mod and see if that helps. Went to Fry's to grab the parts, but did not notice it was just the part codes. Woops!

zootjeff · 08-12-2007, 08:30 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by WiCKeD 5.9L

zoot I understand that. I just don't understand why it's not sending the signal to the board. Either I am doing something wrong or it's bad.

I will try your reverse polarity switch mod and see if that helps. Went to Fry's to grab the parts, but did not notice it was just the part codes. Woops!

If you get a volt meter you can see pretty quick using a regular psu if the swtich polarity is the issue.

WiCKeD 5.9L · 08-25-2007, 01:42 PM

Well I confirmed the PSU works and partially resolved the issue...

I created a reverse polarity switch with 2 x 10k 1/4w resistors and an 80V 500mA PNP transistor. Jeff's switch calls for 2 x 10k 1.8w resistors and a 40V 250mA PNP transistor. Unfortunately this was the best I could find at Fry's. I know nothing about electronics, but this seemed the closest...

Now the PC turns on for 5 seconds and then switches off! It turns on and stays on if I unplug the switch immediately after it powers on. I tried this trick with a different standard polarity switch and confirmed it requires the reverse polarity switch to work.

So the question is, is this happening because I am using the wrong components for the reverse polarity switch or because of a problem with the delays on the DS-ATX?

strohj · 08-25-2007, 04:12 PM

yes it is.. I wired up a relay instead of all those components for my mobo ... I will try to make a diagram and post it here to help you...

EDIT: I did a google search and found this on the DSATX website:

look at the bottom half of that drawing.. that exactly what I did with just a standard 30A automotive relay..(I had a couple laying around)

WiCKeD 5.9L · 08-26-2007, 02:32 PM

Thanks for the diagram! I went to RadioShack and picked up the correct parts for the relay. The P/Ns for the RadioShack resistors are for the same 10k 1/4w resistors I used in my original switch, so I just reused them. Soldered it all up and... same problem.

Guess I will give the relay method a shot, because I already have one I can use.

Edit: I tried the relay and you will never guess what happened... yeah same thing! Is this a timing issue?

zootjeff · 08-26-2007, 10:16 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by WiCKeD 5.9L

Thanks for the diagram! I went to RadioShack and picked up the correct parts for the relay. The P/Ns for the RadioShack resistors are for the same 10k 1/4w resistors I used in my original switch, so I just reused them. Soldered it all up and... same problem.

Guess I will give the relay method a shot, because I already have one I can use.

Edit: I tried the relay and you will never guess what happened... yeah same thing! Is this a timing issue?

Have you played with the settings in the bios? What is it set to do after "Power Fail"?

Can you take a movie and post a video of whats happening?

WiCKeD 5.9L · 08-27-2007, 07:18 PM

Bios is set to "Former-Status"

Movie?? I don't know what that will show.

Here is a quick summary:
1. Turn key on accessory position
2. 5 seconds later the fan begins to spin, PC and LCD turn on.
3. 5 seconds after this, the PC shuts down, before the BIOS post screen is displayed.

Alternate:
1. Turn key on accessory position
2. 5 seconds later, the fan begins to spin, PC and LCD turn on.
3. Immediately remove the power switch from the motherboard header
4. PC boots normally

I can shut the PC down by plugging the switch back into the board.

zootjeff · 08-27-2007, 07:26 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by WiCKeD 5.9L

Bios is set to "Former-Status"

Movie?? I don't know what that will show.

Here is a quick summary:
1. Turn key on accessory position
2. 5 seconds later the fan begins to spin, PC and LCD turn on.
3. 5 seconds after this, the PC shuts down, before the BIOS post screen is displayed.

Alternate:
1. Turn key on accessory position
2. 5 seconds later, the fan begins to spin, PC and LCD turn on.
3. Immediately remove the power switch from the motherboard header
4. PC boots normally

I can shut the PC down by plugging the switch back into the board.

When you have the relay power switch method hooked up. Can you hear the relay click twice or is it just clicking once for the first startup?

Try setting the BIOS to "Stay Off" and see what that does.