Opus 150 intermittently shuts off hard...

Sal R. · 02-27-2008, 09:55 AM

My setup running off the Opus 150:

VIA M10K
2.5" 40g HD
Soundblaster Live 5.1 PCI
4-port USB 2.0 PCI
- RF Remote
- Lilliput Touchscreen + Power
- 160g Western Digital External Harddrive
- BU-353 GPS Receiver

I've been running this setup flawlessly for the past year. Only recently did my carPC start acting up.

The Problem:
The carPC will suddenly lose power while driving. Checking the voltages on one of the accessible molex connectors off the Opus reads 0.0V on the +12 and +5V lines.

Input voltage at the time of shut off: +13.9V
ACC voltage at the time of shut off: +13.9V

The green LEDs off the Opus is blinking normally and I have to manually push the power button to the PC to power up again or cut all power to the PC completely for at least 30sec before it will "auto-on" again only to shut off suddenly in-car.

Bench testing using the Opus will not replicate the problem. I left it on for almost 2 hours in a close-quarter enviroment to simulate the carPC installation and it stayed on.

I've been searching extensively for this problem for a few months now and am no closer to finding a solution. I've removed all the extras above execpt for the TS & GPS mouse and it's still exhibiting the same problem.

If anyone has any insight, I'd love to hear it.

TIA!

customaudioman · 06-18-2008, 11:48 PM

I just think its a problem with the 150, mine shuts off mostly when im just sitting in the car with the engine off. It shuts down and boots back up for about 10-15min and then shut-down again. Then boots back up. I'm looking to get another psu soon.

goosey2099 · 06-19-2008, 08:47 AM

same here, and i'm afraid to purchase another one because i don't want the same problem again.

customaudioman · 06-19-2008, 09:43 AM

The guy at opus a while back when I told them about the issue, he told me that it could be my battery. There is no way in hell its my battery, it a $300.00 sealed car audio battery w/ (62ah) that can run with the car off for 3 +hours with bass kicking and all electronics on. All the opus draw is 15amps max and 150 watts. lol. yeah right, they dont know what their talking about. He said my battery may dip below the 10.5v shutdown. IT says in the manual that it has to be below that point for more than 10sec to start the shut down. Mine will be playing music and apps fine for about 10-15min or so, then just shut off completely. no showing ''windows is now shutting down'' blue screen. It just goes black and a big thump from my speakers. Then starts back up after 10-15 sec. its like it lost totally power. Is that that an issue with the older 150psu?

customaudioman · 06-19-2008, 09:48 AM

but I never have this problem while driving, just when the car is setting. And when I start my car while using the carputer. I thought the carputer should'nt restart during cranking of the engine.

nst6563 · 06-19-2008, 11:09 AM

Hell, I wish my Opus 150 would INITIATE a shutdown in the first place! It powers up the pc just fine when I start the car, but after I turn the car off, it doesn't send the signal to the pc to shut off. So the PC just stays on until the OPUS finally forces it off due to the car not being on.

It's in the documentation I have somewhere (Sorry, I'd give you the exact text from it but it's all boxed up as I'm moving to Houston in 15days) that says that if the +12v Ig wire is not on, the Opus will remain powered on for about 20 minutes and then shut off. It does this to prevent battery drain. That's exactly how mine acts as well.

I was thinking of going with a DSATX + Brainstem for my next PSU. Not sure yet though. 150w is plenty for my setup and I run everything off it including the screen. Haven't had a problem with it until the past month where it doesn't tell the PC to shut off after I turn the car off though.

customaudioman · 06-19-2008, 12:41 PM

my problem is it just shut off, black screen, no blue ''windows is shutting down" It is loosing
power some way. but then just boots back up

Maheriano · 06-19-2008, 06:05 PM

I had this for a while too and it freaked me out until I found the problem. I was using 18 gauge wire for the power to the computer, it's the same size as the wire in their power harness so it should be fine right? Wrong, once I switched to 10 gauge it stopped happening. So I was all happy and a long time later it started happening AGAIN! I started pulling my hair out because I couldn't find the problem but one day I realized as I jiggled the inline fuse on my power wire, the computer shut off. When I checked the fuse holder, it was a millimeter too big for the fuse so most of the time it was fine but if I hit a bump, it'd rattle the fuse inside and it'd lose connection with the ends.

So make sure the power wire is large enough, then jiggle your fuse holder on that power wire and make sure the fuse is nice and secure inside.

customaudioman · 06-19-2008, 09:26 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Maheriano

I had this for a while too and it freaked me out until I found the problem. I was using 18 gauge wire for the power to the computer, it's the same size as the wire in their power harness so it should be fine right? Wrong, once I switched to 10 gauge it stopped happening. So I was all happy and a long time later it started happening AGAIN! I started pulling my hair out because I couldn't find the problem but one day I realized as I jiggled the inline fuse on my power wire, the computer shut off. When I checked the fuse holder, it was a millimeter too big for the fuse so most of the time it was fine but if I hit a bump, it'd rattle the fuse inside and it'd lose connection with the ends.

So make sure the power wire is large enough, then jiggle your fuse holder on that power wire and make sure the fuse is nice and secure inside.

well right now, I'm using 14awg or 12awg for the power wire then that goes to a split to a 4awg power which powers the amps. I notice the power wire to the in-line fuse is hot to the touch. I cant touch it for long when the car engine is off. Maybe the wire is heating up when the engine is off. The blk ground wire is not hot, only the red power inline fuse wire.

nst6563 · 06-19-2008, 10:09 PM

If the wire is as hot as you say it is, you need to replace it with a larger gauge wire. 12 and 14 is a bit small I'd say to run power on if that's going to AMPs. Run a single large gauge or maybe 2x4 or 2x8 lines. Running two lines will split the current between the two and reduce the heat generated.

customaudioman · 06-19-2008, 10:22 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by nst6563

If the wire is as hot as you say it is, you need to replace it with a larger gauge wire. 12 and 14 is a bit small I'd say to run power on if that's going to AMPs. Run a single large gauge or maybe 2x4 or 2x8 lines. Running two lines will split the current between the two and reduce the heat generated.

do you ever have problems with your opus 150 during cranking while the carputer is already on?

nst6563 · 06-19-2008, 11:05 PM

I haven't no. I have a 4 gauge wire run from the battery to the back which hooks into a rockford fosgate block. Out from that it connects to the Opus with a 18guage wire into the male/female connector. 4 gauge was overkill by a long shot, but I used it mainly because I already had it and therefore was no added cost, and I figured at some point I may add an amp or two back there as well (haven't gotten to that point yet ). Never had a problem during cranking and none of the wiring ever gets warm/hot (more so than ambient that is) to the touch while running even after a few hours.

My general rule of thumb is that if a current carrying wire is running hot, run a second or replace with a larger gauge. This usually eliminates the power/heat issues I've run into.

Maheriano · 06-20-2008, 04:41 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by customaudioman

well right now, I'm using 14awg or 12awg for the power wire then that goes to a split to a 4awg power which powers the amps. I notice the power wire to the in-line fuse is hot to the touch. I cant touch it for long when the car engine is off. Maybe the wire is heating up when the engine is off. The blk ground wire is not hot, only the red power inline fuse wire.

That's definitely your problem. Your wire is heating up to the point where it's getting ready to melt right through the jacket and the signal is degrading enough to shut down the computer. Then it comes on, repeating the process every few minutes. Run a 10 gauge stranded wire, dedicated, from the power supply to the battery before your car burns down.