Quote:
The wiring would be the same regardless of the internal wiring of the switch. The third terminal is there to put the indicator light on it's own loop so it doesn't have to handle the same current as whatever the switch is controlling.
Not sure what this is trying to say, but this is what I was saying....
Assuming a SPST (single pole, single throw) switch:
One terminal of each switch is +12V in and is connected to the source (battery, whatever). They can all be connected together. Its just like taking five switches, each with their own wire directly back to the power source except you replace 5 wires with one bigger wire. This doesn't go through any of the switches unless you wire it wrong. The wire from the source needs to be big enough to handle the current for all the lights that will be on at one time.
One terminal of each switch is the output wire and goes to the light or whatever is controlled by that switch. That wire needs to be big enough to handle the current of that light. One wire, one terminal in this case. The light inside the switch is connected so when the "out" terminal has power, the switch light goes on. (Be sure to connect it right or your switch light may be on all the time.)
For the typical lighted switch where the light goes on only when the switch is in the ON position, the third terminal is going to be connected to ground since the light needs +12v and ground to illuminate. This wire can connect across all of the switches just like the +12v wire and go to ground. It only needs to be big enough to handle the current of however many lights inside the switches will be on at one time (18ga wire will be plenty big). Note that you can get switches with more than 3 terminals where the inside light has its own +12 terminal in addition to the ground so you can wire it any way you want but you probably don't want those.
Quote:
I haven't bought any replacement switches just yet. I have the ones in the box (The silver box in the picture). Do you like one kind better than others? I can put anything in at this point.
There are a lot of switches to choose from, so it depends what look you want as much as anything.
Personally I like rocker switches because they don't have handles sticking out like the toggle switches which may or may not be an concern. (Toggle switch handles hurt if you bump your knee into them and I always wonder if I'll break the handle off through some accident.)
The rectangular rocker switches (look for Contura rocker switches) are popular because they fit a lot of factory cutouts, but that isn't an issue here from what I can tell. They come in a lot of different configurations with different switch caps, etc. (Look at the carlingtech.com site for an idea of the variety possible although you may have trouble buying them in small lots.) Take a look at waytekwire.com for some examples too. I've bought stuff from them so I know they're reputable, but they are far from the only source and have some minimum quantity requirements that can be a problem. Look at the accessory mounting panels which would simplify the switch cutouts. Boating supply places usually stock switches like that too from one mfg. or another. Some are more rectangular than others and price varies a lot so shop around and see them in person if you can because I've found pictures on the web can make a switch look better than it does in real life.
The typical switches I listed above are good for 15A or 20A each, so you need to figure out how much current each light uses to be sure you don't need more than that. There are FAQs around that will help you calculate current based on wattage. If you're within the switch current rating, its up to you whether you put in a relay. That depends on space and wire routing mainly. Relays are going to cost more and you'll need some place to mount them since you'll need one for every switch, but you use smaller diameter wire to control the relay so they're easier to route to your switch box. With room for the heavier wires, and as long as the wire length is reasonable, you can avoid the complication of the relays.
Linear Mode
