I honestly think the m4-atx should run your setup fine. I built and ran a multimedia pc a couple years ago running a p4 2.8 ghz processor on an asus p4b motherboard with a 250 watt power supply. I still use it to this day as the core media platform for my mutimedia setup in my apartment. It has 6 pci slots and 5 of them in use with everything from additional 5 port usb pci, 5:1 sound card, tv tuner multimedia card, pvr, ethernet card etc. not including the two 3.5 inch hard drives, and two cd/dvd writers, 2 front usb ports running from the usb motherboard headers and multiple fans. I recently swapped the PSU with a 500 watt PSU basicly just for the heck of it and to use the old 250 watt psu in another machine. I know there is no way in the world your setup could pull that much unless you are running some monster apps total ballz to the wall nonstop. I think you'll be fine which ever way you go.

I don't want to complicate your install, but what brand monitor are you going to use?

The reason I'm asking is the lilliput units have 11V to 14V power input range. If you wire it to the battery you will run into problems later. Batteries usually output around 13.8V and some do a little bit over 14V. Also, once in a while you'll have voltage spikes which can cause damage to your Lilliput unit due to the monitor's inability to "digest" higher voltages.

So I would recommend, if you are using a lilliput monitor, to feed the unit regulated 12V. The OPUS 320W has a convenient 12V regulated output wires that you can run out to your monitor. Not only you'll protect your monitor, but like NotYou suggested it will prevent the monitor from draining your battery, and it will turn the unit on and off with your PC.

Lol, sorry for confusing you, I just don't want your battery to fry $200.

Yellow = 12v (all three wires)
Black = ground (all three wires)
Red = ACC
Orange = ?
Blue = remote turn-on (for amps, typically)

not that you weren't helpful or anything (thank you by the way) but here is one dumb guy who's eager to hit the road in one weak traveling for two and a half days enjoying the new toy!! so basically i don't have time for anything to go wrong...

so here you go:





and if this is how you connect the monitor and external DVD where can I connect an amplifier?

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No you are not dumb. You are going generally in the right direction. So here is a little input. Instead of wiring the dvd player straight to pin 9. Use pin 9 to trigger a 12 volt relay which will supply voltage to the DVD player and the remote turn-ons for the amplifiers simultaneously. That will cover your amp and DVD situation in one shot without splicing all of those components to that one little wire and will take excess current load off of your PSU.

If you need some background on how relays work, look here http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp

You're close.
ALL the yellows need to get tied together and brought out to your battery lead.
ALL the blacks need to be tied together and grounded.
The red goes to an ignition terminal that's hot when the key is "on" or in "acc".
Instead of one of the blues going to the monitor, I would use the orange.
One blue wire(RMT-2) should go to a Bosch style relay - pin 86. Ground pin 85 of the relay. 12v from the battery goes to pin 30 of the relay, and your external DVD power wire goes to pin 87a. This will apply power to the DVD as soon as the key is on
The other blue wire(RMT-1) goes to the remote turn on for your amplifier. You probably want the amp(s) to come on after a short delay and RMT-1 will let you program that delay.

Hope this helps.

Yes, all the blacks on your respective devices(DVD, amp, monitor, etc.) go to ground.

that was really helpful and clear but am still not entirely clear about the blue wires is it only a trigger wire that acts like the ACC/IGN wire or do i actually use it for power. in other word.. do i need that 12v wire running from the power distro to the AMP? or am i getting the power that i need for the AMP from the RMT wire? should i apply a relay there too?



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Architect,
The blue wire to the amp tells the amp to turn on, but it is not the main feed for the amp. You still need to run a heavy wire from the battery to the amp. There is circuitry in the amp that powers it up when it sees 12v on the sense wire. No need for a relay here.

Your drawing looks correct now. The valet switch is a bit confusing. Unless your customer specifically asked for it that way, the red wire goes to a circuit controlled by the ignition key, not a hidden switch. When the key is in "acc" or "on", things happen: PC should boot, monitor comes on, DVD powers up, amps come on(after delay)