Can't figure out the right PSU!!

The1Architect · 04-15-2008, 06:57 PM

not that the information and posts in this forum and FAQ isn't enough to figure this out it is actually more than enough.. in fact it's too much that got me confused

also there is alot to choose from and alot of different ways and methods to do it. so please help me do this.

I know my system is in need for aproximatly 265W according to some power calculators provided by the FAQ and since the next step up from 250W PSU's are the 320W so i figured that the OPUS 320W Intelligent DC-DC would do it but its too expensive i was thinking of $100-150 for a PSU. However, i don't mind buying it if going with other options would end up making me spend what I save on extra stuff that the OPUS 320W doesn't need.

also am intresed in auto ingnition when the car starts (don't know how it works)

here is what I think i should put everything together:

does anyone know for sure if I can get away with a 250W PSU?

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NotYou · 04-15-2008, 07:06 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by The1Architect

I know my system is in need for aproximatly 265W according to some power calculators provided by the FAQ and since the next step up from 250W PSU's are the 320W so i figured that the OPUS 320W Intelligent DC-DC would do it but its too expensive i was thinking of $100-150 for a PSU. However, i don't mind buying it if going with other options would end up making me spend what I save on extra stuff that the OPUS 320W doesn't need.

If you've calculated that you need 265W, then yes your best bet is the opus you linked. Almost all dc-dc car power supplies, including the opus, are "intelligent". This means that they will power on with the car, and shutdown the computer properly when you turn off the car.

Almost all dc-dc car supplies are more expensive then their 'home' counterparts because of the "intelligent" feature, and the compact designs. If you want to spend under $150 for a car power supply, its possible -- but you'll have to change your computer components so that it doesn't require so much wattage. Hence why VIA boards are so popular =)

hailrazer · 04-15-2008, 07:06 PM

Well just to let you know, I am using a M4-Atx right now with the following :

2.6 GHz AMD Athlon 64 X2 5000+ dual-core processor (1 MB cache),
500 GB hard drive,
2 GB RAM
Geforce 8400 256mb PCI-E video card
Multi-format/dual-layer LightScribe DVD drive
10.4" Shark touchscreen
USB GPS
USB HD Radio
USB XM Radio
USB Touchpad
USB Griffin Volume control.

And it runs perfect , no problems at all.

The1Architect · 04-15-2008, 08:01 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by NotYou

If you've calculated that you need 265W, then yes your best bet is the opus you linked. Almost all dc-dc car power supplies, including the opus, are "intelligent". This means that they will power on with the car, and shutdown the computer properly when you turn off the car.

Almost all dc-dc car supplies are more expensive then their 'home' counterparts because of the "intelligent" feature, and the compact designs. If you want to spend under $150 for a car power supply, its possible -- but you'll have to change your computer components so that it doesn't require so much wattage. Hence why VIA boards are so popular =)

what about the diagram does it look right ?

The1Architect · 04-15-2008, 08:03 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by hailrazer

Well just to let you know, I am using a M4-Atx right now with the following :

2.6 GHz AMD Athlon 64 X2 5000+ dual-core processor (1 MB cache),
500 GB hard drive,
2 GB RAM
Geforce 8400 256mb PCI-E video card
Multi-format/dual-layer LightScribe DVD drive
10.4" Shark touchscreen
USB GPS
USB HD Radio
USB XM Radio
USB Touchpad
USB Griffin Volume control.

And it runs perfect , no problems at all.

are you using a VIA board?

and where did you get your touchpad from?

hailrazer · 04-15-2008, 08:44 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by The1Architect

are you using a VIA board?

and where did you get your touchpad from?

It's an AsusTek motherboard.

Here's my touchpad. I actually got it off Ebay but you can order straight from their site to :
http://www.ergonomictouchpad.com/ergonomic_touchpad.php

NotYou · 04-15-2008, 09:03 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by hailrazer

Well just to let you know, I am using a M4-Atx right now with the following :

2.6 GHz AMD Athlon 64 X2 5000+ dual-core processor (1 MB cache),

And it runs perfect , no problems at all.

AMD processors are lower wattage then Intel... and especially P4's. If memory serves me right, your processor uses around 65watts on average, and the P4 will be over 100watts.

It's quite possible the m4-atx will work fine for the OP, and would probably work without issues, but there could be problems if heavy CPU usage occurs.

NotYou · 04-15-2008, 09:13 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by The1Architect

what about the diagram does it look right ?

Close... couple of things to be aware of based on what I see if your diagram:

The ground from the power supply should go to the chassis, and be very close (1-3 ft) to the power supply. No need to go all the way back to the battery
Connect the DVD drive to the power supply, not the battery.
Don't connect the LCD to the battery. Either connect it to the power supply like everything else, or connect it to the ACCESSORY 12v. Otherwise, as you have it the lcd will always be powered (= battery drain)
You need both 12v and 5v going to the HDD.. you probably already know that, but there was only one power wire going to it in the diagram. =)
You will need a wire going from the car's accessory wire to the power supply as well. This is what triggers the power supply to use its "intelligence" to turn on and of.
There will be other, smaller connections to make that you'll find out as you hook everything up -- nothing major though. (i.e. a pair of small wires from the power supply to the power switch on the motherboard.)
Don't forget to connect your sound card to your amplifier/speakers =)

The1Architect · 04-15-2008, 09:21 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by NotYou

AMD processors are lower wattage then Intel... and especially P4's. If memory serves me right, your processor uses around 65watts on average, and the P4 will be over 100watts.

It's quite possible the m4-atx will work fine for the OP, and would probably work without issues, but there could be problems if heavy CPU usage occurs.

well most of the cumputer components I already have setting there as an extra PC before I decided to turn it into a CarPC other wise my chioces of equipments would be much different

i guess i dont wanna risk it and just buy the 320W well $185 is not much more than $150

so what about the diagram I drew it thinking its that simple but since it was really simple to do it that made feel that its definitly not right

The1Architect · 04-15-2008, 09:51 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by NotYou

Close... couple of things to be aware of based on what I see if your diagram:

The ground from the power supply should go to the chassis, and be very close (1-3 ft) to the power supply. No need to go all the way back to the battery
Connect the DVD drive to the power supply, not the battery.
Don't connect the LCD to the battery. Either connect it to the power supply like everything else, or connect it to the ACCESSORY 12v. Otherwise, as you have it the lcd will always be powered (= battery drain)
You need both 12v and 5v going to the HDD.. you probably already know that, but there was only one power wire going to it in the diagram. =)
You will need a wire going from the car's accessory wire to the power supply as well. This is what triggers the power supply to use its "intelligence" to turn on and of.
There will be other, smaller connections to make that you'll find out as you hook everything up -- nothing major though. (i.e. a pair of small wires from the power supply to the power switch on the motherboard.)
Don't forget to connect your sound card to your amplifier/speakers =)

connecting the LCD to an ACCESSORY 12v.... now what is the Accesspry 12V?

and for running the wire from the PSU to the car's accessory wire i heard of that and i put in the diagram but don't know how to do it or where would i find the car's accessory wire

are they both the same and where are they ?

how is this?

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NotYou · 04-15-2008, 09:51 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by The1Architect

well most of the cumputer components I already have setting there as an extra PC before I decided to turn it into a CarPC other wise my chioces of equipments would be much different

i guess i dont wanna risk it and just buy the 320W well $185 is not much more than $150

Best way to get started in the hobby is using your old equipment to find out what you need/how it all works... as you have a headstart on your "upgrade" path for the future. muhahah..

I would just go with the 320W to be safe. The m4-atx at 260W will probably be fine, but then again you might run into problems if your using the CPU at 100% and using all of the items you have in your diagram. Or, you might have startup problems since that is when components draw the most watts/amps. Even if the 320W is "too much", it's not going to hurt any.

Quote:

so what about the diagram I drew it thinking its that simple but since it was really simple to do it that made feel that its definitly not right

No no no.. your diagram is pretty accurate. Just a couple things that I listed to help you prepare. Your on the right path, and don't need to be discouraged. Once you jump in and start wiring everything up you'll find that everything "fits into place". Especially if you've ever built a computer before.

NotYou · 04-15-2008, 10:07 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by The1Architect

connecting the LCD to an ACCESSORY 12v.... now what is the Accesspry 12V?

and for running the wire from the PSU to the car's accessory wire i heard of that and i put in the diagram but don't know how to do it or where would i find the car's accessory wire

are they both the same and where are they ?

Yes, both wires you are referrencing are the same. It's also sometimes refered to as a "switched 12v" wire, or

The accessory wire in a car is a wire that has 12v on it when the ignition is on (or in the accessory position), and has 0v on it when the ignition is off. USUALLY this is an orange or yellow wire behind the radio... USUALLY. Not always, though. There are several ways you can find it:

Ask someone with the same vehicle as you who is familiar with this stuff
Review the service manual for your vehicle
Find the wiring diagram for the radio harness in your car (i.e. Crutchfield has these, as well as you can search google)
Use a multimeter -- find something with 12v when the ignition is on, 0v when its off

Basically, you'll find this wire in a harness in the car behind the radio/under the dash, or as a loose wire in the same area. Connect one end of a long 18g wire to it, and then the other end of the 18g wire to the respective part on the power supply. You will still need to connect the ground and battery wire ("constant 12v" wire) to the power supply.

If you decide to hook the LCD to the accessory wire as well, you'll just repeat the above with a second 18g wire. This wire, however, will connect to the 12v power wire on the LCD monitor since it's powering the monitor (unlike the power supply).

The1Architect · 04-15-2008, 10:27 PM

thansk a lot that was so clear .. so what about the digaram can I call it a final draft?

the reason am so concerned about my diagram is because i have seen alot of diagrams out there that are apearently for a carPC but are much more complicated than mine...

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NotYou · 04-15-2008, 11:42 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by The1Architect

thansk a lot that was so clear .. so what about the digaram can I call it a final draft?

the reason am so concerned about my diagram is because i have seen alot of diagrams out there that are apearently for a carPC but are much more complicated than mine...
-

Ahh, sorry.. didn't see the second diagram until now. That one looks just about perfect. The only things to be aware of are:

You will have two small wires coming from the power supply to the motherboards power switch. This is how the power supply will turn on the motherboard. I wouldn't worry about putting it in your diagram.
I'm assuming the thing marked "Vistar"(?) on the bottom is the amplifier. If so, you will need to connect this directly to fuse block by the battery. Also, you will need to have a ground on it (just like you did with the power supply)
You will have a single 18g wire coming from the power supply to the amp for "Amp Turnon". If, by chance, the power supply you have doesn't have an "amp turnon" connector, you will instead connect that wire to the accessory wire (in addition to power supply accessory connection [yellow in your diagram])

Finally, try to plug as many USB items as you can directly into the motherboard. It'll avoid headaches down the road.

Good luck!

~~~
PS. Just a heads-up --- the D-Link WiFi USB adapter you have pictured will barely work in a car. You won't get much signal strength -- you need something with an external antenna. I'll be posting my work log here in the next couple of days and i'll give some recommendations on what to use for in-car wifi.

toyotatyrant · 04-16-2008, 03:08 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by The1Architect

not that the information and posts in this forum and FAQ isn't enough to figure this out it is actually more than enough.. in fact it's too much that got me confused

also there is alot to choose from and alot of different ways and methods to do it. so please help me do this.

I know my system is in need for aproximatly 265W according to some power calculators provided by the FAQ and since the next step up from 250W PSU's are the 320W so i figured that the OPUS 320W Intelligent DC-DC would do it but its too expensive i was thinking of $100-150 for a PSU. However, i don't mind buying it if going with other options would end up making me spend what I save on extra stuff that the OPUS 320W doesn't need.

also am intresed in auto ingnition when the car starts (don't know how it works)

here is what I think i should put everything together:

does anyone know for sure if I can get away with a 250W PSU?

-

I honestly think the m4-atx should run your setup fine. I built and ran a multimedia pc a couple years ago running a p4 2.8 ghz processor on an asus p4b motherboard with a 250 watt power supply. I still use it to this day as the core media platform for my mutimedia setup in my apartment. It has 6 pci slots and 5 of them in use with everything from additional 5 port usb pci, 5:1 sound card, tv tuner multimedia card, pvr, ethernet card etc. not including the two 3.5 inch hard drives, and two cd/dvd writers, 2 front usb ports running from the usb motherboard headers and multiple fans. I recently swapped the PSU with a 500 watt PSU basicly just for the heck of it and to use the old 250 watt psu in another machine. I know there is no way in the world your setup could pull that much unless you are running some monster apps total ballz to the wall nonstop. I think you'll be fine which ever way you go.