Everything You need to know about your M4 ATX - Page 12

blk02si · 06-07-2009, 11:37 PM

A fan blowing downward on the M4 will do little if the case you are using has no exhaust fan to rid the system of ambient heat created by the passive CPU heatsink. I would try adding some more fans to the setup, the cooler the system is, the better it will run.

Think about it like this: The more heat the system creates, the less efficient it becomes, which causes max output on the m4 to decrease, which causes more heat because it's flowing more current to keep up with the load, which causes more heat, which makes it less efficient. . . It's a nasty cycle that only proper cooling can cure.

Jistari · 06-07-2009, 11:55 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by blk02si

Think about it like this: The more heat the system creates, the less efficient it becomes, which causes max output on the m4 to decrease, which causes more heat because it's flowing more current to keep up with the load, which causes more heat, which makes it less efficient. . . It's a nasty cycle that only proper cooling can cure.

Havent heard it stated that clearly

jfalcon · 06-08-2009, 01:48 AM

One question then: Which component on the M4 would be the culprit that needs to be replaced with a better one? Clearly if the M4 can't hold up to 130F (max) inside the case, then there are components on the M4 that could use upgrading to better specs. A Voltage Regulator? A transistor? If it were replaced with a mil-spec component to prevent that part from being the weakest link in a otherwise good product, then it only benefits everyone.

Sure, if I ran a duct from my air conditioner into the case maybe it would solve everything, but we're talking about a product marketed for working in the extreme conditions that exist in a mobile application.

So other than physical cooling, are there any other suggestions or recommendations of parts to order from Digikey?

Also, there are fans on the back pulling air out and a modern FH fan sucking from the front. The M4 sits midcase on the right since all the old power wiring and crap was redundant to a DC operation. I went with the passive heatsink to remove moving parts obviously.

jpinkerton · 06-08-2009, 02:37 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jfalcon

I went with the passive heatsink to remove moving parts obviously.

Passive cooling is probably what is killing you. I understand you don't want something failing with moving parts, but it's failing without them. Might try upgrading that passive cooling to some motion.

Griff1 · 06-15-2009, 01:21 PM

I've been scratching my head for a few days trying to get this M4 to work properly.

After a little reading it seems i have a few known issues,

1, Sometimes is doesn't come on with the ignition, turn the ignition off and then back on and it comes on.

2, Its just plain ignoring the dip switches and has settled on 60 seconds as its shutdown time.

3, Sometimes comes on with the ignition and then goes back off 5 seconds later.

I see that some have reported these issues resolved with the later firmware and my M4 is a very early model (the earliest i suspect, wish i'd tested it a year ago when i bought it)

I don't have a clue about pic programming so what are my options?

Is there anyone willing to make up a cable for me?

WuNgUn · 06-15-2009, 02:08 PM

1) Hmmmm....
2) Pull the built-in fuse for 15 seconds anytime you change the DIPS...this is well documented.
3) Maybe related to question 1...double check your wiring. Also, where are you tapping into to get the IGN signal to the M4? You MUST use the cars ACC or IGN. Sounds like your probably using maybe the cars stereo wiring?? This is a no-no for obvious reasons.

Griff1 · 06-15-2009, 02:22 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by WuNgUn

1) Hmmmm....
2) Pull the built-in fuse for 15 seconds anytime you change the DIPS...this is well documented.
3) Maybe related to question 1...double check your wiring. Also, where are you tapping into to get the IGN signal to the M4? You MUST use the cars ACC or IGN. Sounds like your probably using maybe the cars stereo wiring?? This is a no-no for obvious reasons.

1, Hmmm indeed but it seems others have experienced this too.

2, I don't see that pulling the fuse will do anything different from pulling the main power lead, which i can do and have done via the plug i built into the wiring.

3, The pc is powered as you would an amp using heavy gauge wiring to the rear of the car with the ground picked up locally.
The acc is from the car's ingition and has performed as expected with my previous psu, an M2-ATX.

I'm pretty hopefull its down to my unit being 1 of the early 1's and a firmware flash is all that's needed.

Enforcer · 06-15-2009, 02:27 PM

Well I have an early M4 and I also have issue 2.

I have also changed the dips with absolutely no power going to the unit. In fact the unit was out of the car at the time, so I also see no reason why pulling the fuse will make any difference. Although I may try that just for giggles.

Wary of doing a flash at the moment in case it gets bricked, but may purchase a new one and if that works experiment on this one, there is no harm having a second one as I also have as second M/board so I can use it for testing/developing, then when I have made the changes on the one indoors, just swap the whole thing and then experiment on the other system.

Griff1 · 06-15-2009, 02:34 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Enforcer

Well I have an early M4 and I also have issue 2.

I have also changed the dips with absolutely no power going to the unit. In fact the unit was out of the car at the time, so I also see no reason why pulling the fuse will make any difference. Although I may try that just for giggles.

Wary of doing a flash at the moment in case it gets bricked, but may purchase a new one and if that works experiment on this one, there is no harm having a second one as I also have as second M/board so I can use it for testing/developing, then when I have made the changes on the one indoors, just swap the whole thing and then experiment on the other system.

I see your point as far as bricking it is concerned but if i dont it's about as usefull as a paper weight anyway.

Enforcer · 06-15-2009, 03:02 PM

Well mine does actually work, it would just be nice to have 15-20 mins, for my (RR)UPD8 program to do it's job.

teamcba · 06-19-2009, 06:46 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by WuNgUn

1) Hmmmm....
2) Pull the built-in fuse for 15 seconds anytime you change the DIPS...this is well documented.
3) Maybe related to question 1...double check your wiring. Also, where are you tapping into to get the IGN signal to the M4? You MUST use the cars ACC or IGN. Sounds like your probably using maybe the cars stereo wiring?? This is a no-no for obvious reasons.

Why assume, why not ask the guy first!

WuNgUn · 06-19-2009, 09:26 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by teamcba

Why assume, why not ask the guy first!

Why assume?? I posted to help the guy out. I can't sit here and do all his work for him, can I?

Griff1 · 06-19-2009, 12:41 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by WuNgUn

Why assume?? I posted to help the guy out. I can't sit here and do all his work for him, can I?

I appreciate all the input, thanks everyone.

It turns out the firmware was at fault and thanks to teamcba (who popped round and flashed my M4) all is now as it should be, i'm well chuffed.