Everything You need to know about your M4 ATX - Page 9

blk02si · 05-01-2009, 09:21 AM

I would have to attribute about 95% of the problems people experience with the Mx-ATX power supplies are user error. I have purchased 4 in the series and all have worked well, in fact all of them are still working today. I usually read the manual twice before touching the boards, and triple check all connections before firing it up.

SLIVER23 · 05-01-2009, 10:16 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by blk02si

I would have to attribute about 95% of the problems people experience with the Mx-ATX power supplies are user error. I have purchased 4 in the series and all have worked well, in fact all of them are still working today. I usually read the manual twice before touching the boards, and triple check all connections before firing it up.

I agree with you... I'll admit I was worried at first with my problems (self induced problems) and read some posts a few pages back that someone had the same issure and had to RMA it; so I was preparing for the worst. Currently the unit is working flawless and I will be setting up the USB support next. Outside the car I'm even running bench tests using an 18v Dewalt Drill Battery without a hickup.

bennierex · 05-01-2009, 10:49 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by blk02si

For installation reference:

I studied the PC board quite a bit for installing this and noticed a design trait I really didn't like that much. Mounting pads on 2 of the holes are positive (+) flowing current from the primary input. You may notice they have an extra layer of clear insulation on them. I don't like this because if one was to use metal standoffs and tighten it down too much, the IC will short against ground. In my installation I used non conductive nylon standoff's just to be sure. Just though installers should know this since it's not marked anywhere in the manual.

-Joe

Thanks for sharing! When I installed the M4 in my custom-built case I wondered why these two holes had extra insulation on them, but now it figures. As I will be installing my new HQCT-i this evening, I will add some nylon washers between the standoffs and the M4 board.

No problems so far with the M4-ATX btw. I use mode 1 to automatically startup/shutdown the PC in respect to the ignition state of the car and all is well. The only thing I encounter is when I shut down the PC via software and keep the ignition on, the PC will startup again after about 30sec to 1min by itself. Any ideas on how to prevent this?

SLIVER23 · 05-01-2009, 03:01 PM

I posted this here...

http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/powe...ferance-3.html

blk02si · 05-02-2009, 10:02 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by bennierex

I use mode 1 to automatically startup/shutdown the PC in respect to the ignition state of the car and all is well. The only thing I encounter is when I shut down the PC via software and keep the ignition on, the PC will startup again after about 30sec to 1min by itself. Any ideas on how to prevent this?

Add a hard switch in the ACC line?

May I ask why you are running a startup / shutdown controller if you want to shut it down manually?

SLIVER23 · 05-02-2009, 10:23 AM

Is any else getting radio interference generated from the M4? I've hooked up a PC Power Supply to test it and all works just fine but as soon as I power up with the M4,there is so much interference that I cannot tune any radio stations

One thing after another with this project.

blk02si · 05-02-2009, 10:52 AM

Are you powering the radio with the M4? If so don't, the HD tuner has built in line filtering. Usually poor reception has to do with antenna issues or poor grounds. Can you give more info or perhaps a wiring diagram about how your m4 and tuner are wired?

SLIVER23 · 05-02-2009, 12:48 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by blk02si

Are you powering the radio with the M4? If so don't, the HD tuner has built in line filtering. Usually poor reception has to do with antenna issues or poor grounds. Can you give more info or perhaps a wiring diagram about how your m4 and tuner are wired?

I've tried powering the HD radio both from the M4 and without... I'll leave it powered seperate from now on.

I have my stock radio still wired and using AUX for my sound input in my car. My stock radio also gets poor reception when the M4 is powered while the HD Radio for the PC doesn't get anything.

I have my M4 powered to the battery with a 4 gauge power run and grounded in the trunk with another 4 gauge cable that I sanded down a 3" area and screwed a gold plated 2" ring adapter. I have all the connections soldered so I know they are getting good contact.

I had the tuner run from the hard drive power from the M4 and grounded on the same terminal in the trunk. I've run the tuner to a seperate 12v source but even so, as I said above my factory stereo is also getting interference so I feel like the M4 is producing it

I don't know where else to ground it... I'm getting the same voltage at the M4 as I am at the battery so I feel like there shouldn't be any resistance from the ground. Should I run more than one ground to the M4?

Oh and the antenna I am using for the HD Radio is a low profile powered antenna that works great without the M4 on.

It's definately the M4 as I have used a normal power supply plugged into an outlet and everything worked.

SLIVER23 · 05-04-2009, 09:54 AM

Well, I never found a fix for the interference caused by the M4. My stock radio gets some static added to it regardless (since the antenna is in the trunk w/ the power supply). I moved the HD Radio tuner along with a power antenna mounted under the dash up front with me, then bought a serial cable extension and long RCA so I could feed the HD Radio back to the computer. This worked well on my first test... just another $20 in cables.

blk02si · 05-04-2009, 05:30 PM

I'm pretty sure if the M4 were enclosed in an aluminum or steel enclosure the interference would be contained. Good idea on remote mounting the HD tuner though, I was wondering if that would work with a serial extension.

SLIVER23 · 05-06-2009, 04:28 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by blk02si

I'm pretty sure if the M4 were enclosed in an aluminum or steel enclosure the interference would be contained. Good idea on remote mounting the HD tuner though, I was wondering if that would work with a serial extension.

Well, even with the remote wire of the HD Tuner I still am getting interference

I'm about ready to throw the M4 out the window but before I do I ordered an encloser for it from minibox and am going to see if that fixes my problem. I've grounded it to several locations with no change.

jpinkerton · 05-09-2009, 11:08 PM

I've searched but couldn't find the answer.

When attempting to power up my M4, by following this guide, when I turn on the desktop PSU the D2 light next to the J6 jumper blinks.

It blinks before I even throw the switch between the desktop PSU and the M4. As soon as the desktop PSU turns on, that light blinks but no power to the carputer. What does this mean? Any idea what I might be doing wrong?

blk02si · 05-09-2009, 11:16 PM

Nothing, it's supposed to blink in "standby" mode when it has input voltage but the PC is off. Flip the switch to the IGN line and it should turn on. OR you can use the switch on the motherboard to turn it on. That's what I do when testing. When the CPU turns on the M4 led will burn solid.

jpinkerton · 05-09-2009, 11:31 PM

Hmm, I must have something wrong with the switch then, because when I flip my "ignition" switch nothing happens. The LED on the switch kicks on, but no fans spin up.

I have a line between the motherboard on jumpers, but I must be missing something else.

Enforcer · 05-10-2009, 12:01 AM

The connector that goes to the pwr switch is polarity sensitive, try it the other way around.

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