Ricky327

I looked at the schematic of the sproggy,as fare as I can see its takes the incoming voltage lowers it to 5 and 3,3 volt regulated and then takes some of the 5 v and raises it to 12 volt,this time regulated.

Ok this should work, althought it may not be as efficient but its should be good enough as the 12V rail dont need to be that much. The only problem is the 5V rail will have more stress...but it should be fine.

Where did you see this sproggy curcuit...I dont remember seeing something like that a while ago unless I was looking at something else

Post me the link cheers

MP3Car.com

 

mst

http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/atta...tachmentid=320

mst

From the "Sprrogy Mk3 coming soon"tread;199 posts!!!

Ricky327

Thanks, I just looked again.

You are right. The 12V is derived from the +5V, it was something I didnt noticed when I first looked at it many month ago


It should survive the crank then, go for it

Ricky327

I realised theres a modified sproggy around, the +12V is taken directly from the unregulated +12V. This is regulated using the flyback design.

Im not so sure how easy it is to buy the coil though, I kinda hate it when I see too many coils, not an easy item to find.

mst

About the coils,both Cosco and Coilcraft has been very nice,they quickly send the coils for the Sproggy;
Mastero says that if you needs more 12 volt you can take it from the 3.3 rail in the Sproggy.
I like the Sproggy design (I haven't really built it yet,still missing the #¤=* maxim parts)
but it is much bigger then the PW-70 and it needs cooling,and you still needs a shutdown.
Well instead of sitting here,reading and writing,I should be reading me PIC books and learn how to program the things!

Ricky327

Well instead of sitting here,reading and writing,I should be reading me PIC books and learn how to program the things!


Yup, checking this forum does take alot of my time. But hey it is good Learning the PIC is easy as long as you already have the coding knowledge.

My PIC based shutdown controller is almost done, still needs optimizing, no time for that yet.

My idea is to build a good shutdown controller and then add a good PSU with it. Evrything Im doing right now is in experimental stage.


Let me know your shutdown controller plan

mst

The problem is that I have no coding knowledge!I am a 54 years doctor,we did not even had calculators when I went to school,I even learned to write with an ink pen(ballpens forbidden in school)!
My carputer will be turned on and off with the remote control for the alarm/doors so when you enter you will be greeted by the puters logon screen with face and voice recognition,if fail to logon you will be threatened with teargas/40000 volt/photos send direct to police(no of those threats will be real,I do not trust micro$).
The puter will in hibernation or standby for 15 to 60 min;but I will need a shutdown
controller in the evening or if I leave the car long time so the battery will not be discharged.
The cars ignition/fuel pump will be controlled by a ibutton for on and a normal pushbutton for off.
A camouflaged key will be left in the car when I use it,only to unlock the steering wheel
no electric use.The starter will use a QT110 for touchcontrol on the gearknop.
Of course if it is possible to get the remote control system from TI for a reasonable price ( not $500 to $2000)I would like to build that in.

chut

Just for curiosities sake, how big a battery are we talking about? Voltage, Ampherage and anything else I need to know. there are alot of batteries for sale on eBay...maybe my next project?

__________________
Stop Buying New Music CD's.
Hit The RIAA where it lives.

Indash Motorized 7", Epia Nehimiah, 512 MB, 80 GB, DVD, Wireless G, XP Pro, XM PCR, Kenwwod 5 Channel 1200 Watt Amp.

chut

I think you just won the prize for oldest member of this board....I have no idea what the prize is tho....

__________________
Stop Buying New Music CD's.
Hit The RIAA where it lives.

Indash Motorized 7", Epia Nehimiah, 512 MB, 80 GB, DVD, Wireless G, XP Pro, XM PCR, Kenwwod 5 Channel 1200 Watt Amp.

MikeH

Chut,

...sorry I'm 55!

__________________
MikeH

MikeH

Ricky,
In your original post (schematic), shouldn't your top diode (from main battery/alternator) be on the OTHER SIDE (left side) of the current limit resistor? If not, won't current begin flowing from your backup battery to the main battery during cranking, limited only by the resistor? This would effectively drain the backup battery if the main battery drops significantly during cranking, and may pull the backup battery's voltage down with it. The current drain is not the issue, but pulling down it's voltage may be enough to reset our pc.

Perhaps I'm not understing this correctly........

__________________
MikeH

MikeHunt79

Ok, I haven't read the whole thread, but I'm using a sproggy at the moment: It's a modified 2.5 version, and it does not survive the crank (my cars is a diesel tho).

Infact, the engine needs to be running in order for the hard disk to even spin up (which makes it a pain to power the carputa in the house). I very much like robiewp's idea... I think I'm gonna use it since I have a backup battery and I'm sure I've got a spare relay somewhere.

__________________
My Setup

mst

I understand that Opus can survive a crank with voltage drop to 8 or 9 volt,how do they do it?anybody have a schematic or something?

none

My Sproggy 2.8+ does survive a crank, long cranks in ten degree F weather.

There is alot of information on this board about the various Sproggy designs if you The PSU is named for an early member of this forum who designed it in the first place. Mastero currently markets a variant or two. I think his 2.8+ version is the best - that's why I have 2 It does have some hard to get parts, though. And there is some question over whether they will work properly with EPIA M motherboards (it appears to only be a startup problem, some kind of check the MB is doing,) although several have reported success with big caps on the input. If I had one, I'd try just shorting out pin 14 (has anyone tried this?)

Mine have had no problems surviving cold starts in several vehicles. It is important to have a fat wire directly to your battery - my current setup has an 8 AWG, although that is surely overkill.

MP3Car.com