Battery based tank circuit (tested) - Page 8

Ricky327 · 04-04-2004, 08:02 AM

Nice neat layout zvi...If you gonna drain that much current you might be better off using a diode with higher current capability...but then I guess it depend on the availability and price at your place.

Let us know how your version work for you. The original circuit I have posted was only intended for low power laptop. Look like you are the first person to attempt a high current version of it. I cant see any reason why it cant work, as long as the right components are used it should be fine.

Good luck

LESLIEx317537 · 04-04-2004, 10:36 AM

That's a very nice drawing. What you use to make it?

zvi · 04-04-2004, 11:53 AM

LESLIEx317537
I used CorelDraw 11, just jumped to my office today and had some 5 minutes to draw it

Ricky327
Only high current diode I could find here is BYV133 (18 A), this is like MBR6035, dual diode inside, but it Forward Voltage drop is 0.6v, for 1N5822 it is 0,5v, 1N5820 is not available here, so I better go with many diodes, which give me less Voltage drop, than one diode with more Voltage drop.

Tomorrow I will test it on a real load, so let's see, thank you for wishing good luck

LESLIEx317537 · 04-04-2004, 12:03 PM

zvi, as I tested in another post, yes running the smaller diodes in parrallel is good since it has a lower foward voltage drop. http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...9&postcount=82

I thought you had a Nissan Z..lol my bad...

What battery and ps setup are you using?

zvi · 04-04-2004, 12:25 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by LESLIEx317537

zvi, as I tested in another post, yes running the smaller diodes in parrallel is good since it has a lower foward voltage drop. http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...9&postcount=82

I thought you had a Nissan Z..lol my bad...

What battery and ps setup are you using?

I have 46Ah main Battery, 9 Ah Backup SLA Battery, AudioForge PW120a (or maybe ITuner PW70a, it's a same I think), no ITPS, i dont have any 12v device.
look at my pictures from the link in my signature

LESLIEx317537 · 04-04-2004, 12:51 PM

So how are you regulating the voltage going into the PW70a?

zvi · 04-04-2004, 01:08 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by LESLIEx317537

So how are you regulating the voltage going into the PW70a?

I am not. Should I?

LESLIEx317537 · 04-04-2004, 01:10 PM

Yes, I have heard bad things about that.

What if your batts and alt. are putting out 14.8 volts? I donno if the Mobo and Pw70a will like that.

zvi · 04-04-2004, 01:16 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by LESLIEx317537

Yes, I have heard bad things about that.

What if your batts and alt. are putting out 14.8 volts? I donno if the Mobo and Pw70a will like that.

oops

but I can be relaxed, my alt gives 14.4

moreover, less than 14.4, because diodes do their durty job - dropping a voltage

Ricky327 · 04-04-2004, 01:51 PM

Ricky327
Only high current diode I could find here is BYV133 (18 A), this is like MBR6035, dual diode inside, but it Forward Voltage drop is 0.6v, for 1N5822 it is 0,5v, 1N5820 is not available here, so I better go with many diodes, which give me less Voltage drop, than one diode with more Voltage drop.

Good thinking

I was assuming you can get all sort of diodes over there

zvi · 04-07-2004, 04:26 AM

here are pics:

zvi · 04-07-2004, 10:35 PM

I have checked with the real load, after wiring and soldering the ends of wires, I have hooked upthe system and - it survives the crank - COOL!

Ricky327 · 04-07-2004, 10:41 PM

Nice one ZVI

Is it possible if you can measure the supply voltage of the PSU for future reference...its good for the forum

With the engine off, during cranking and when the engine running...all measured with the PC switched on. Also make a note of how hot the components gets as well as the current drain of the PC.

Cheers...once again good work

zvi · 04-08-2004, 12:31 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Ricky327

Nice one ZVI

Is it possible if you can measure the supply voltage of the PSU for future reference...its good for the forum

With the engine off, during cranking and when the engine running...all measured with the PC switched on. Also make a note of how hot the components gets as well as the current drain of the PC.

Cheers...once again good work

Ok I'll do it today

I have some minor problems though: I have connected the lilliput to PSU 12v rail (before I had it directly to accu) and the backlight is blinking a bit, it was not before, what do you think it might be? after my PSU there is lilliput's factory regulator on the wire (the oval one, you know maybe)
and second rpoblem - the mini din connector of my lilliput has kind of bad contacts or so, when I touch it (when connected) it affects the image on the display - lines, scraches, jumping, no stable. It's hard to chatch the "position" to get the stable image. what can I do for it?

Will post in "Show off your project" soon

port20 · 04-08-2004, 03:20 AM

Ricky327 and mst I have been a stereo installer for 10 years and have a background in computers and electronics

booth of your solution while they may work are flaud I will explain first ricky your setup the tank bat is to small and that is why it needs the extra diode and a charging resistor if it was bigger the resistor would not be needed because the battery could handle the current coming from the cars charging system & then there is no need for the extra diode

mst your setup does not isolate the tank battery from feeding back to the main battery if it has a small current rating it will burn up if it is 18 ah or more not being isolated reduces how well it works an example is if you have a large amp for sub's when they hit the power surge will drain power from the tank battery to feed the amp

a better solution is to use a 40 ah diode and a large cap or battery in this diagram I attached you can see that it is very simple to make. for mini itx boards 2 farads is enough except P4 mini itx they need 4 farads atx boards need 5 farads or more how many farads depends on the draw of the main board used 60w you need 2 farads min 150w you need 4.5 farads 200w you need around 6.5 farads and so on here are the advantages cap's VS battery cap's require no service but cost a lot more up front batteries need to be replaced every few years a 2 farad cap costs $150 one time 3 batteries in 6 years cost the same the ratings I mentioned will give you 30 seconds of power during cranking with caps a 18 ah battery will give you about 5 mins on a Epia M10k also batteries need sealed cases that are vented to the outside of the car even sealed ones because they vent hydrogen gas that can expolde so if you use batteries use gel batteries witch cost more and there will be no need for the case also a voltage drop of .07 volts across a diode does not matter when charging a battery because the battery is 12 volt. 13 volts or 13.8 volts the battery still sees more than 12 volts and will charge to full no problem