ITPS installed!

parawing742 · 01-24-2004, 09:34 PM

I got one of the free ITPS units from the folks at mini-box.com. I finally got it installed and working (I didn't realize that BOTH wires must be connected to a 12v source before it would power up). Although it doesn't solve the cranking problem, it seems to work great otherwise. I'm really glad to be rid of the inverter. I'll post some pics of my install tomorrow.

SjLucky · 01-24-2004, 11:22 PM

Whooo HOOOO!!!!!!

Damn The Inverter Nerds!! Welcome to the Other Side Holmes...

BigRedBee · 01-24-2004, 11:52 PM

Free???

parawing742 · 01-25-2004, 02:01 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by BigRedBee

Free???

The good people at mini-box gave away 15 units when they first started selling the ITPS. I was one of the lucky recipents.

parawing742 · 01-25-2004, 02:22 PM

I posted some pics of my install showing the ITPS in the project forum:

http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/21206-1996-ford-ranger-w-m10000-xenarc.html#post156199

TheSpecialist · 01-25-2004, 03:41 PM

I just finished my entire install and I too ran into the cranking issue. I put a 1n4001 diode between two blade connectors (one female one male) and added a back up battery. Problem solved.

FYI

I also discovered you should not go directly from the battery to th ITPS. Take advantage of your cars 12vdc regulator. My system was working perfect, until I left a light on in my car. It didn't kill the battery but the recharging sent my cars voltage to 14.6vdc. The ITPS would not let the computer start until the voltage was again in range. I rerouted the power to and accessory circuit and I was done.

none · 01-25-2004, 07:55 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by TheSpecialist

FYI

I also discovered you should not go directly from the battery to th ITPS. Take advantage of your cars 12vdc regulator. My system was working perfect, until I left a light on in my car. It didn't kill the battery but the recharging sent my cars voltage to 14.6vdc. The ITPS would not let the computer start until the voltage was again in range. I rerouted the power to and accessory circuit and I was done.

The accessory circuit on your car has no more regulation on it than your battery does. The car's regulator is on the alternator - before the battery. It is there to protect your battery as much as anything else.

Squeeky · 01-27-2004, 11:24 AM

TheSpecialist, how is it that easy to solve cranking issues? There are tons of people with the same issue, building tank circuits and stuff, you come in and say just throw in a diode. So what you are saying is if I run this diode in series with 12v input, my computer will start upon cranking.

none · 01-27-2004, 11:32 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Squeeky

TheSpecialist, how is it that easy to solve cranking issues? There are tons of people with the same issue, building tank circuits and stuff, you come in and say just throw in a diode. So what you are saying is if I run this diode in series with 12v input, my computer will start upon cranking.

He also said he added a backup battery (in the same sentence.)

Squeeky · 01-27-2004, 11:53 AM

Wow, sorry I need to learn how to read. Just curious what type of battery setup you used. I'm finally gonna build my carputer, as soon as there is a fail proof, boot off cranking and shutdown after several minutes after car turns off.

none · 01-27-2004, 12:22 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Squeeky

...as soon as there is a fail proof, boot off cranking and shutdown after several minutes after car turns off.

I am confused by this statement. What is it you are trying to accomplish?

Squeeky · 01-27-2004, 12:28 PM

I want to know for sure that when used diodes, and tank curcuit along with ITPS and 70w psu. I can connect and have the PC starts when car it turned on, and have pc shutdown after car is turned off with a delay in case of pumping gas or a quick run in to get something.

none · 01-27-2004, 12:58 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Squeeky

I want to know for sure that when used diodes, and tank curcuit along with ITPS and 70w psu. I can connect and have the PC starts when car it turned on, and have pc shutdown after car is turned off with a delay in case of pumping gas or a quick run in to get something.

What you are talking about is accomplished by the ITPS alone, no tank or diodes required (those are meant for something else.) In it's stock form, however, the delay after the car is turned off and before the PC is shutdown is only 5 seconds. This delay can be adjusted by reprogramming the chip on the ITPS, if you know how to program PICs.

If you read some other threads, however, you will see that the ITPS has other problems. It will be the source of many headaches in the automotive environment unless you bypass the voltage regulator on it.

TheSpecialist · 01-30-2004, 07:32 PM

Yes, the ignition circuit and all other circuits at your fuse box are somewhat regulated. My suggestion was not to go to the battery directly. I was showing of my imstall and left my dome light on overnight. The next day the altenator in its attempted to charge the battery raised my voltage by 2 volts and my system would not start.
The battery I used is a rechargeable NICad to which I have probally fifty or more in my garage. There all new and as soon as I figure out more info (like Ah and weight) I plan to offer them here for sale.
The battery and the diode only solve the cranking issue and lets you run the CarPC for a couple hours.

none · 01-31-2004, 12:59 AM

How do you "somewhat" regulate? It's either regulated or not, it's not something you can do halfway.

My system, like those of many other users here, is connected directly to the battery by an 8awg wire, and I have never heard of anyone having a problem because of this. The problem you described, if truly caused by what you think it was caused by, would have happened wherever in the car you got your power from.

But then I have a proper power supply and don't suffer from such problems.