Looking for a creative solution: USB bus still powered after CPU is off - Page 11

R32 JUhl · 02-10-2005, 01:06 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by rando

Yah, those will work but that relay is a bit on the pricey side. Any 12V DP relay with a contact rating of a couple amps or more should work.

I used the relay and diodes listed above and it all worked perfectly. Thanks Rando for taking my 600mA draw to 7 mA!

rando · 02-10-2005, 01:06 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by R32 JUhl

Thank you Rando. What about those diodes? Are they the right spec?

Yes, any 1n400x should work. Sorry for the slow response, the "New Posts" button doesn't always work for me.

john1701 · 02-10-2005, 02:39 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by rando

Yes, that's correct. Here's a schematic.

just did the mod, works great!!!!! no more 5v always on! thanks

used the parts from rat shack

DjBac · 02-16-2005, 02:12 PM

I did it too, no 5v always ON!!!

BUT since then the PC resets after sometime (it varies).... It acts almost like you press the reset button... When it does it I can hear the relay, so something cuts power!!!

ANY HELP PLEASEEE?????

DjBac · 02-17-2005, 05:05 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by DjBac

I did it too, no 5v always ON!!!

BUT since then the PC resets after sometime (it varies).... It acts almost like you press the reset button... When it does it I can hear the relay, so something cuts power!!!

ANY HELP PLEASEEE?????

Doens' anyone know anything about it?

rando · 02-28-2005, 09:30 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by DjBac

Doens' anyone know anything about it?

What type of relay did you use? You need one that will switch around 11V. most 12V rated relays will actually come on around 8-9V. You may have one that needs a bit more voltage -- in that case it might drop out randomly.

Another option, check your connections. Could vibration be causing momentary disconnects or shorts? Since you say this happens when your system was on, your relay should have been getting regulated power from your Opus -- so it's unlikely to be an alternator or source wiring issue.

DjBac · 02-28-2005, 10:39 AM

I've tried the relay and it turns on from 5-6V, so this is not a problem.. I use such relays all the time in the car..

I don't think vibration could cause any problem, since this happens even if the car is stooped and the engine off... I will try tomorrow to power the screens from unregulated 12V so that I don't stress the Opus and see what happens!!

The problem is that it started after the mod!!

Do you know when they will release the new opus? (they've told me it might be close to 300W:P:P

-zip- · 02-28-2005, 10:52 AM

I can fill you in on the 300w Opus. They will not give a release date, I have spoken with them almost weekly. Ordered a 150w and hopeing for the best. 2 months on 300w minimum. I followed the 220w all the way to the end when they scrapped it about 2 weeks ago.

However their POL device should be out this month. I will call them to see if they are regulated.

KaiTech · 03-09-2005, 04:22 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by -zip-

I can fill you in on the 300w Opus. They will not give a release date, I have spoken with them almost weekly. Ordered a 150w and hopeing for the best. 2 months on 300w minimum. I followed the 220w all the way to the end when they scrapped it about 2 weeks ago.

However their POL device should be out this month. I will call them to see if they are regulated.

They'r regulated, but will only put out as much voltage as the input -1V. For example for 12V output you need 13V or more input.

BlueGrimRX8 · 03-16-2005, 09:20 PM

Ok guys, The first time I made this it worked for a while then all of a sudden stopped working. So I thought maybe something was disconnected, made sure everything was good, and it still didn't work, so I bought the parts and tried again, now it pooped my ignition fuse....

So, my soldering skills suck so I am thinking it is probably that, is there anyone here that I can send the parts to and a little money to build a good version of this for me? I have all the parts already, just cant seem to get it right?

R32 JUhl · 03-17-2005, 09:04 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by BlueGrimRX8

Ok guys, The first time I made this it worked for a while then all of a sudden stopped working. So I thought maybe something was disconnected, made sure everything was good, and it still didn't work, so I bought the parts and tried again, now it pooped my ignition fuse....

So, my soldering skills suck so I am thinking it is probably that, is there anyone here that I can send the parts to and a little money to build a good version of this for me? I have all the parts already, just cant seem to get it right?

Any chance you can make it to the GTG this Saturday? There will be plenty of people there who can help you out... http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/mp3car-gatherings/41219-atlanta-ga-meetup.html

BlueGrimRX8 · 03-17-2005, 01:48 PM

I wish I could, its a little bit of a drive for me...

sanbas · 04-12-2005, 02:32 AM

i know nothing about electronics and I think i am obviously missing something here. All you guys talking about the USB devices being on from the OPUS after the PC is off has lost me.

I checked my OPUS's molex connector with a multimeter and this is what i measured:

With Car and PC off (opus green light blinking...like its suppose to), i measured the yellow (+12v) and black (ground) to be 0.01 Volts. Then on the red (+5v) and black (ground) measured 0.0 volts.

Seems to me like its not drawing any power.

The I turned the car on and measured it again and got 5.15 volts on the red and black molex wires. AM I MISSING SOMETHING COMPLETELY?

P.S.

Eventhough I have NO usb devices plugged in the car, the battery died last weekend after the first day of the opus installation...so i went and bought a yellow top OPTIMA...its been a couple of days and still starting fine.

P.S.S. how are u guys telling which is the power and ground wire after you cut the USB power cord...i just put two 1.5V AA batteries in series and put the cut wire on each side, the USB hub light would only power on when I connected em a certain direction, then i did a continuity test with the wire (+) side wire and the inside - OR - outside to figure out which one was which...make any sense??

R32 JUhl · 04-12-2005, 08:52 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by sanbas

i know nothing about electronics and I think i am obviously missing something here. All you guys talking about the USB devices being on from the OPUS after the PC is off has lost me.

I checked my OPUS's molex connector with a multimeter and this is what i measured:

With Car and PC off (opus green light blinking...like its suppose to), i measured the yellow (+12v) and black (ground) to be 0.01 Volts. Then on the red (+5v) and black (ground) measured 0.0 volts.

Seems to me like its not drawing any power.

The I turned the car on and measured it again and got 5.15 volts on the red and black molex wires. AM I MISSING SOMETHING COMPLETELY?

The Opus can be modified to operate just as you described - maybe you got one that is configured in a fashion that makes it function just like this realy does.

Quote: Originally Posted by sanbas

Eventhough I have NO usb devices plugged in the car, the battery died last weekend after the first day of the opus installation...so i went and bought a yellow top OPTIMA...its been a couple of days and still starting fine.

Install an ammeter in series between the positive lead of the Opus and the battery - current will have to flow through the ammeter to power your Opus. Monitor current to see what your Opus is drawing. I had an 800mA draw before using Rando's relay. That level of draw will kill a battery in fairly short order. It dropped to 6mA after doing Rando's mod.

Quote: Originally Posted by sanbas

how are u guys telling which is the power and ground wire after you cut the USB power cord...i just put two 1.5V AA batteries in series and put the cut wire on each side, the USB hub light would only power on when I connected em a certain direction, then i did a continuity test with the wire (+) side wire and the inside - OR - outside to figure out which one was which...make any sense??

Connect a volt meter to the power supply leads and plug it into the wall. The meter will tell you what voltage the power supply is producing (as the markings on the power supply do) and from your readings you can determine polarity. Match the wires on the power supply to the wires on the lead you just cut off.

rando · 04-12-2005, 10:17 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by R32 JUhl

The Opus can be modified to operate just as you described - maybe you got one that is configured in a fashion that makes it function just like this realy does.

No, his power supply most likely has the problem too. According to his description, he didn't check the +5VSB wire. That's the one that is always on unless you do the wiring mod described in this thread.