Ghetto Startup/Shutdown Control for Inverter - Page 4

lexanite · 11-02-2005, 02:11 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by the_realscott

Hi all!

This is an interesting thread, and one that I'd like to use if possible to make a cheap-o software monitored PC shutdown and a timed forced shutdown. So I'd like it to send a signal to the comuputer asking it to shut down, using the serial port as people have discussed, but also have a timed shutdown on the power inverter, so after say 1.5minutes it will cut off the power and completely turn off everything.

So having read what I can find in this and other threads, does this look OK? It seems OK by my (extremely limited, high-school level!) electronics knowledge.

Can anyone go over it and see if there's anything wrong?

Cheers,

Scott.

Yes, there are some mistake with your schematic diagaram around the power relay (supply to the inverter).
Corrections:
1. Cut the wire which connect the tip3055 collector and the diode anode.
2. Cut the wire which connect the relay coil and the relay contact, keep the connection between diode cathode with the relay coil.
Now the relay coil pins only connect to the diode Anode and Cathode.
3. Wire the collector to diode cathode.
4. Wire the diode anode to batt +ve.

Or you can do it graphically.
Actually its only moving two lines in your drawing.
First, move the horizontal line connected to diode cathode up, to diode anode.
Second, move the horizontal line connected to the tip3055 collector down to diode cathode.
Confuse? ....... better use no 1234 above..

Curiosity · 11-02-2005, 02:40 AM

I think I see what you see. The relay coil should be connected to the batt (+) and transistor (-) rather than after the relay contacts, otherwise it won't work unless the contacts are closed. Not sure about all the diodes and LEDs in line either. Seems like too much of a drop but too little would pop an LED?

lexanite · 11-02-2005, 07:22 AM

You are right. I suppose the two LED can be omited, replace with wire link, replace the 470K resistor with 470 ohm, and 9.2K with 1K. The left 1N914 replace with 1N4002.
If an LED indicator still required, a 1K2 resistor in series with a LED can be paralleled to the power relay coil. Suppose somebody can calculate more accuratelly if have the tip3055 data, also the relay.

vettejock99 · 11-02-2005, 10:53 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by lexanite

You are right. I suppose the two LED can be omited, replace with wire link, replace the 470K resistor with 470 ohm, and 9.2K with 1K. The left 1N914 replace with 1N4002.
If an LED indicator still required, a 1K2 resistor in series with a LED can be paralleled to the power relay coil. Suppose somebody can calculate more accuratelly if have the tip3055 data, also the relay.

Great, so much for me understanding any of this...

arebelspy · 11-02-2005, 11:35 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by vettejock99

Great, so much for me understanding any of this...

-arebelspy

the_realscott · 11-02-2005, 05:08 PM

Great! Thanks folks. Thats exactly what I needed. Very much appreciated! Once I've got it right, I might make it up and put up some pics, part lists and prices since a few people seem to be interested in this kind of thing.

Cheers!

Scott.

PS: Here's my ammended diagram. How is it looking now? I think I followed what you were saying about the relay and the transistor. What about the LEDs? Will they be causing problems if I leave them there as they are now? Actually, both those LEDs will be showing the same thing wont they?

kamikaze2112 · 11-03-2005, 12:05 AM

ok, i don't think isaw this answered anywhere, so here goes:

with this circut, if i read the thread correctly, it triggers the generic ups service after ~90 sec. after Vacc goes cold. Once the UPS is triggered, it shuts down the machine, and cuts power to the inverter. Pin 4 on the com port is +5vdc? Can i set it to hibernate instead, and can i set it to hibernate say after 10 minutes? am i going to get annoying error messages from the UPS service? If it's going to hibernate after 10 minutes, do i need the caps?

also I like hibernating it better, cause i find that there's almost no chance of the machine hanging.

Curiosity · 11-03-2005, 12:21 AM

almost
That's the important word. If it hangs once, it's enough to make you rethink why you would put a PC in your car. A second time, and you'll want something like this or sit in the car until you're sure it's off every time.

kamikaze2112 · 11-03-2005, 12:37 AM

well, seeing as i hibernate it with the pushbutton and it has so far worked every single time for the last 2-3 months, i'm pretty sure i'll be ok there. I also have a decent battery, which if i kill, the inverter will shut off anyway. I find it gets a second wind, usually enuf to start the car with

Curiosity · 11-03-2005, 01:15 AM

Doing that a lot will reduce the life of your battery unless it's a yellow top. Mine never had trouble hibernating for close to a year, then I added cameras and changed the wifi, etc. and now it's not as reliable with all those drivers that have been installed and uninstalled so many times, so it's more important now that it cuts the power no matter what.

About the diagram, it will let you hibernate or shut down. The COM port uses +5V from itself, even though I think a COM port can take 25V directly, it's safer to do it that way.

the_realscott · 11-03-2005, 05:21 AM

Yep, it should hibernate OK if you're happy to trust it to do so... but it'll still shut off the power to the inverter.

Any comments on the revised wiring?

Scott.

kamikaze2112 · 11-03-2005, 11:33 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by the_realscott

Yep, it should hibernate OK if you're happy to trust it to do so... but it'll still shut off the power to the inverter.

Any comments on the revised wiring?

Scott.

I'm gunna be buiding a much simpler version, with out the caps/leds, and will let you know how it goes.

One other thing tho, i was wondering what pin is used for the WOR and how can i use that to start the computer. What about the WOL connector on the mobo? I know the NIC needs a special packet, but then does it forward the packet, or pulse or what?

Curiosity · 11-03-2005, 12:12 PM

Window XP has a built in monitor for the older style UPS which connects to the COM port. Go to your desktop properties, screen saver, power options, UPS, and select generic. There's more info about it somewhere around here.

kamikaze2112 · 11-03-2005, 12:21 PM

yea, i already got that figured out, but i'm wondering if i can ghetto start the pc as well

Curiosity · 11-03-2005, 02:16 PM

Yep. You can do that too. I think it's earlier in the thread. Just do resistor & cap pulse on the PC power button when the ACC goes on, but also use 2 diodes to get input from the PC 12V as well, so it doesn't pulse when you turn the key off or on while the PC is on.

ACC-->|-----cap+resistor--relay--power button
PC --->|--/