suggestions on power supply

scott_fx · 01-12-2005, 08:57 PM

Hello,

I've been reading about power supplies and I'm still unsure what i need and what all my options are so i am submitting to a newbie question... will someone help me pick a power suppy?

I did the power supply wattage calculator and it said 179 watts.
I was planning on going with the opus 150 but now i'm not sure what my options are (or if i'm doing something wrong)

Here is what I have:

--mobo
Mach speed micro atx
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProdu...-187-006&depa=0

--cpu
1.3 amd athlon
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProdu...-103-156&depa=0

--ram
512 pc-2100
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProdu...-141-504&depa=0

--slim/slot dvd-rom
I can find the link to my slim slot load dvd player but it was like this but dvd:
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProdu...-154-014&depa=0

-soundcard
Soundblaster 5.1 surround card:
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProdu...-102-173&depa=0

--hd
80 gb 7200 rpm 3.5

--fans:
one heatsink/cpu fan, one intake, one exhaust fan, and one other fan to circulate air to the bottom of the case when it gets too hot (my case is built into a cubby hole where the bottom has no inlet for cool air)

--gps mouse/antenna.

Thanks in advance and I'd greately appreciate the help.

`S

therussman2002 · 01-12-2005, 09:38 PM

check out: http://www.firingsquad.com/guides/po...pply/page2.asp

ive been struggling with the psu crap for a whlie myself, heres what ive learned:
the watts you calculate makes no difference at all, need to look at what voltages all your components operate at, and what current they draw

the opus 150watt supplies the following currents at their respective voltages:
5V STBY - 1A
3.3V -10A
5V - 10A
12V - 5A
-12V - 0.2A

check this guide out

it shows the current draw at whatever voltage for common computer components... though i have found that the currents shown for the processors at the bottom of the page MAY be inaccurate, as I cannot find two consistent sources that show the same currents for the same processor

for instance i have a p4 2.8ghz processor, and i have seen 10.11amps, 7amps, 5.1 amps... the list goes on... so who knows

i would assume a 1.3 athlon would be lots less than a 2.8 p4...

someone here has a p4 2.something on an opus150watt... i dont know how, but that works

if you really like the shutdown controller & input voltage tolerance features of the opus, i'd say give her a shot, but no guarantees, but it gets complicated when those features are not all in one

ehh i ramble, hope this helps

scott_fx · 01-13-2005, 11:45 AM

I emailed opus and they said: SFX.1215. 150W power supply will be minimum for you.

Can anyone give me some feedback on what are my other options are?

scott_fx · 01-14-2005, 05:20 PM

I've looked into the power invertes and I'd like to not put as much strain on the electrical system as i think these will produce. Anyone have any suggestions? two m1-atx power supplies maybe?

scott_fx · 01-15-2005, 02:19 PM

scott_fx · 01-15-2005, 08:02 PM

Could someone clue me in if 'PW-200-V 12V, 200Watts ATX micro PSU', ITPS, and shutdown controller be a better choice?

Arathranar · 01-15-2005, 08:16 PM

No it's not. the ITPS can only regulate 60W. I however, am using the Pw-200V and a 7.2Ah battery to survive crank & keep the computer running after switching the ignition off. I'm still working on the regulator circuit but the PC can run off the battery for a good 20 minutes so it's all looking very promising

.

I'm running an AMD XP 2500+ barton underclocked to 1900+, Soyo k7vme cheapo m/b; 256mb ram, 160gb 7200 rpm seagate, PW-200V, usb keyboard, ps-2 miniature trackball currently. Max current draw so far was 7A with Prime 95 torture test. That's only 84W.

old_lou · 01-15-2005, 08:27 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Arathranar

No it's not. the ITPS can only regulate 60W. I however, am using the Pw-200V and a 7.2Ah battery
.

I have just starting to put my stuff together and have a PW200v I tried to run it up on the bench tonight with only a 7.2ah battery on and it failed to start just spun the fan once when I turned it on, but the board started ok when I plugged in the 150w psu that came with the case. Any ideas have not searched yet as I have other things to play with but saw your post and thought id'e ask on the off chance. The battery is stand alone but has showed over 13 v for 5 days without charging just wondering if its just not enough by itself to spin the pc up, and to idle to search for a 160ah one ive got in the shed somewhere(old landy battery if it woudn't start I could take the plugs out and get home on the starter moter lol) will fish out the other battery tomorrow and put it on charge for a couple of weeks.

Arathranar · 01-15-2005, 08:41 PM

Hook up a multimeter to check the voltage and current draw when you try and start the computer. On mine, I see 5-7A current draw and the battery drops from the 12.85V no load voltage to about 11.8V fairly quickly then stabilizes. After that it drops slowly (over about 20 minutes) to below 11V. Eventually it hung when I resumed from standby with the battery only providing 10.8V.

.

If your pc draws too much current (e.g. 10-12A), a 7.2Ah may not be able to supply that without dropping it's output voltage lower than the PW-200V and/or your pc are happy with. Since my PC was still running stably when the battery was at 11V (and monitoring software on the PC was seeing the 12V at only 10.3V!), I'm beginning to suspect my PC doesn't actually need the 12V much - but I've been told my AMD barton uses the 12V for the cpu. Since then I've read it's entirely up to the m/b manufacturer where they power the cpu from so really I've got no idea

.

old_lou · 01-15-2005, 08:53 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Arathranar

.

Thank for that I was asuming it was just not heavy enough for the first crank without been backed by its big brother, or still hot from a charge. But as my lcd screen turned up today I thought it was about time to start building instead of trying to absorb info from the users here,

old_lou · 01-15-2005, 08:57 PM

Ime not sure about the pull of my board its amercuryPVCLM-l with onboard everything including a factory clocked via processor clocked from (I think)800 to 1500. It may be because its overclocked its a bit fussy because I had to threaten it to get it to post anyway.

old_lou · 01-15-2005, 09:19 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by old_lou

But as my lcd screen turned up today I thought it was about time to start building instead of trying to absorb info from the users here,

Well its a goer I am on it now on a wireless card. Will sort out the dc dc tomorrow

scott_fx · 01-17-2005, 09:02 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Arathranar

No it's not. the ITPS can only regulate 60W. I however, am using the Pw-200V and a 7.2Ah battery to survive crank & keep the computer running after switching the ignition off. I'm still working on the regulator circuit but the PC can run off the battery for a good 20 minutes so it's all looking very promising

.

I'm running an AMD XP 2500+ barton underclocked to 1900+, Soyo k7vme cheapo m/b; 256mb ram, 160gb 7200 rpm seagate, PW-200V, usb keyboard, ps-2 miniature trackball currently. Max current draw so far was 7A with Prime 95 torture test. That's only 84W.

Ahh.. this is so fustrating being a computer noob. thanks for your help.

I think i will go with a setup like this:
regulator post:
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...lchair+battery

batt islator:$30
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...X/appId-385764

200w power supply: $60
http://www.mp3car.com/store/product_...products_id=40

startup/shutdown controller: $54
http://www.mp3car.com/store/product_...products_id=65

gel cell battery: $0-$60
http://www.batterymart.com/battery.mv?p=GEL-8GU1
(will try to find a used wheel chair battery first)

I think this would work...anyone think it wouldn't?

Arathranar · 01-17-2005, 09:10 PM

The regulator post you've mentioned doesn't really seem (from my quick glance) to actually have details of how to regulate the 12V into your pw-200. The pw-200 doesn't regulate the 12v, so you either need to not care (which probably means you need to be isolated from potentially destructive voltage spikes during crank. I'm not sure a battery isolator achieves that.

My 7.2Ah sealed lead acid battery cost me $10.
A diode to prevent low or zero voltage from the main battery is only about $2 but that might not match your needs.

Maybe you should summarize your intended setup and your understanding of the posts so we know what we're discussing. Otherwise we'll all have our own interpretation of the posts you'll linked and confusion will result!

Arathranar · 01-17-2005, 09:36 PM

Have you read this post on regulation?
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...671#post355671
It details what I'm intending to try.