Keep computer on while powering car

phatchink · 03-03-2005, 07:34 AM

so my carputer works as follows

Battery-->inverter-->computer. I control the computer's on and off through a extended switch over the side. The computer can be turned on without the car being on.

Sometimes I want to make quick stops where i have to turn off my car, when I do that, the comptuer would still be on ( thats how I want it )
but when i get back into the car and start it, the computer has to be restarted because of the startup voltage draw which takes away from my inverter causing it to turn off momentary and the computer would be off.

Is there a device that can keep a little bit of power so my computer can survive the crank?

Matthew230 · 03-03-2005, 07:42 AM

Yes - it's called an Opus

stevieg · 03-03-2005, 07:56 AM

Wow, it's like reading posts from 3 years ago

With the invertors, some survive cranking, some don't.. with the cheap ones it's certainly pot luck. It's possible to have a second battery (say a motorbike battery) inline with diode to keep up the 12V while cranking but as Matthew230 days DC-DC power is the way to go if it will power your system, using an Opus, Cartnetix or other DC-DC power supply/regulator.

ltrain1007 · 03-03-2005, 09:01 AM

I just got an opus 150w , what is the best way to test it without actually hooking it up to the battery ? plug it in to the wall socket? then what do you do with the ign? : (

stevieg · 03-03-2005, 09:16 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by ltrain1007

I just got an opus 150w , what is the best way to test it without actually hooking it up to the battery ? plug it in to the wall socket? then what do you do with the ign? : (

You need a 12V regulated power supply on your test rig, that is capable of pumping out say at least 200W. best ones are preoper test equipment stuff. You would probably want to wire it up so you can provide permanent live, ground and a switched live via your own custom switch to simulate the ignition on.

If you actually meant wire it straight into 240V or whatever your countries AC wall sockets are, I recommend you do some serious reading before touching anything. Doing that wuld kill it and probably you.

RedGTiVR6 · 03-03-2005, 09:47 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by stevieg

If you actually meant wire it straight into 240V or whatever your countries AC wall sockets are, I recommend you do some serious reading before touching anything. Doing that wuld kill it and probably you.

I iwll second this, just to make sure that he get's the point....you do NOT want to mess with something like that....

phatchink · 03-03-2005, 03:08 PM

I know what you guys are saying about opus, its nice to have but its just not for me because I'm planning to use a more powerful computer later and it won't be sufficient. When I go camping I also want to plug electrical applicances like shavers in there too and it can't do that. Its costs almost as much as my screen so thats a third nono. The inverter I bought already powers off if the car's low on battery so it won't drain after I'm there. Besides I'd rather spend the money on a deep cycle which in the long run is more benificial to the car rather than the computer only.

The only feature I would want from the opus is the survial of the crank, which according to stevieg, can be achieved with some kinda diode setup??

Is that what you mean? Please disregard my kiddish Paint drawing

bobs987 · 03-03-2005, 03:15 PM

thats right but the diode points the other way

phatchink · 03-03-2005, 04:01 PM

oops my bad, k so will it keep recharging the "little battery" as time passes?

and wats the point of the diode? why shouldnt current travel from little battery to car battery?

RedGTiVR6 · 03-03-2005, 09:49 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by phatchink

When I go camping I also want to plug electrical applicances like shavers in there too and it can't do that.

pfft...that's not camping!

that's staying at the hilton!

n8scstm · 03-03-2005, 10:01 PM

Careful plugging in any rechargeable device such as a shaver. Most rechargeable batteries will be fried by the modified sine wave inverter output. To bench test your system youll need a car battery or a battery charger that you can plug into the wall and output 12 volts. What I did with my system to survive cranking was install an aux battery with a battery isolator. Its expensive but very good.

Vchat20 · 03-03-2005, 10:03 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by phatchink

oops my bad, k so will it keep recharging the "little battery" as time passes?

and wats the point of the diode? why shouldnt current travel from little battery to car battery?

yes, it will keep rechargin the little battery. reason why the diode is needed is because without one, when cranking, the little battery will be using its juice to help start the car which scraps the whole tank circuit idea.

KyferEz · 03-03-2005, 10:18 PM

About that diode, it should be a high current schottky with a big heatsink on it. To make it easier, you could just buy it all done for you. See the Tank EZ v1.0 on our website.

KyferEz

Bigassbike · 03-03-2005, 10:21 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by phatchink

so my carputer works as follows

Battery-->inverter-->computer. I control the computer's on and off through a extended switch over the side. The computer can be turned on without the car being on.

Sometimes I want to make quick stops where i have to turn off my car, when I do that, the comptuer would still be on ( thats how I want it )
but when i get back into the car and start it, the computer has to be restarted because of the startup voltage draw which takes away from my inverter causing it to turn off momentary and the computer would be off.

Is there a device that can keep a little bit of power so my computer can survive the crank?

I use the dual battery inverter setup, and it works great. I have a remote switch to the inverter and when I power it, my computer turns on. My next computer will have an opus type PS - I just can't use one with my current setup. Also if you do a search for tank circuit and surviving crank, you will find a lot of information.

Hope this helps.

aguila · 03-04-2005, 02:21 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by KyferEz

About that diode, it should be a high current schottky with a big heatsink on it. To make it easier, you could just buy it all done for you. See the Tank EZ v1.0 on our website.

KyferEz

Any similar products in Europe?