Yet another m1-atx problem HELP!!

blasterguy128 · 05-24-2005, 11:36 PM

OK...(sigh) This m1-atx has been the most frustrating part of my carpc setup. So everythings was working fine until 2 days ago when it just stops working. Check for problems and find a new fuse got me up and running but with problems.

The m1-atx wasn't closing the circuit to turn the comp on and off. Then sense I had received the new PIC a couple weeks ago I figured I would try it (big mistake). Now nothings working and its not the fuse.

Then I notice a wire sticking up from the m1 that I didn't remember being there. I think this is my problem. Here is a picture of it for reference.

Please help!!! I am out of things to test for.

thanatos106 · 05-24-2005, 11:41 PM

Another Angle pic....???

blasterguy128 · 05-24-2005, 11:44 PM

I tried but its hard to get a clear shot. You can't see the wire sticking up? The rest I took came out blurry.

EDIT: I'll go try another angle.

EDIT: I tried like 10 angles and that wire hardly shows up. So thats the best pic I got. Sorry

thanatos106 · 05-24-2005, 11:54 PM

Is this the one:

thanatos106 · 05-24-2005, 11:58 PM

I checked the user gide but no wire sticking up:

http://resources.mini-box.com/online...-ATX-guide.pdf

blasterguy128 · 05-24-2005, 11:59 PM

Yep...The M1-ATX, its popular.

This looped wire seems like it popped up.

thanatos106 · 05-25-2005, 12:00 AM

so make abrige and that it!!

or push it back....

blasterguy128 · 05-25-2005, 12:06 AM

I tried pushing it back but it won't go. What do you mean by make a bridge?? Sorry I'm not to familiar with circuitry and that sort. Connect what to what?

rando · 05-25-2005, 01:13 AM

That 'wire' is part of the quad ferrite bead block FB1. It should be pushed down and soldered in place. Check the other side of the board. If the solder joint are still in tact, then FB1 is damaged and needs to be replaced. If not, then push the wire down and resolder it.

Alternatively, if your unit is still under warranty, send it in for repair/replacement.

blasterguy128 · 05-25-2005, 03:09 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by rando

That 'wire' is part of the quad ferrite bead block FB1. It should be pushed down and soldered in place. Check the other side of the board. If the solder joint are still in tact, then FB1 is damaged and needs to be replaced. If not, then push the wire down and resolder it.

Alternatively, if your unit is still under warranty, send it in for repair/replacement.

Ok, I tried pushing it down but it wouldn't go all the way. Looking at the bottom of the board, the two solder joints appear to still be intact to the board.

I couldn't just connect the two pins from the bottom of the board? How much of a problem would it cause if the wire doesn't go through the ferrite block?

I'm trying to get a pic of the bottom, will post if I can.

blasterguy128 · 05-27-2005, 09:14 PM

I have just soldered the bottom two pins together and it worked. I tested it and everything seemed to be running perfect. So I put everything back together and recoonect it to find out it has stopped working.

So I whip out the voltmeter and start testing. The problem is I am not sure what is supposed to have juice and what isn't because I didn't test it while it was actually working. So here are my results can you tell me if they are right or wrong?

Battery + - are fine.

Fuse is good. And there is juice running through it when + - are connected.

molex connectors have nothing. (normal I believe)

20 pin connector- all have 12v (except for white wire) when connected to battery negative. (abnormal I think)

Ferrite block (FB1)- 3 pins have 12v and the one I soldered has no juice. I thought this was a problem, but when it was working after I soldered it, it also had no juice. Plus the pin next to it had no power. I'm very confused, what should be powered?

Then I connected the green pin and the ground next to it on the 20 pin connector (cause this turns on a normal psu). Same results.

I know it will work, I am so close I can taste it. Victory will be mine (with your help). Help me conquer the m1-atx.

rando · 05-28-2005, 01:17 AM

I'm not an analog expert but most likely, bridging the ferrite bead will probably only marginally reduce the ability of your PSU to block unwanted noise and spikes on the input side.

You measured 12V on all ATX pins? Uh, that's bad -- and it's hard to imagine a failure mode that would produce such a result without some smoke. Dunno how easily you're going to get warranty support now that you've soldered on the board.

blasterguy128 · 05-28-2005, 05:58 AM

Thanks for the help rando, I appreciate it. I think I just joined the "I fried my m1-atx" club.

I am going to mess with it some more, but I will probably end up getting another psu. Which one, I'm not sure.

I know the warranty is voided, but do you think I can pay mini-box to repair it?

Maybe I will just buy a new one and sell this m1 cheap for someone who wants to try to repair it.

waltwalt · 05-28-2005, 02:36 PM

I blew my M1-ATX earlier this week and sent off an email to mini-box, haven't heard back from them yet so I wouldn't hold your breath.
However if you want to PM me, I could buy your PSU off you, I've got two blown M1's, between the three of ours I could repair two of them.

-w

rando · 06-08-2005, 08:05 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by blasterguy128

I know the warranty is voided, but do you think I can pay mini-box to repair it?

You'd have to contact them to find out.

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