Typical shutdown controller/car pc diagram?

CavityCr33p · 07-07-2005, 07:14 AM

This would be great for the FAQ emporium because I have seen it asked a few times and not really drawn out.

I wasnt planning on using a shutdown controller with my inverter, but the option came up and now im scambling on information.

Does anybody have a diagram of how the shutdown controllers connect with the main power and other devices? From what I have read is that its like a distribution block with options/features.

does it go somewhat like this?

Battery and ACC------>Shutdown controller------>Devices (inverter, amp, screen)

?

Im trying to figure out if I am going to still have to run my 6 gauge wire to my amp and inverter from the battery still, or will I just run it to the shutdown controller and that takes care of the distribution.

I havent decided on the CarPC EZ or the DSSC yet, almost mind boggling to choose.

The main thing is that I dont want to have to run 6 gauge from my battery to the inverter, the amplifier, AND the shutdown controller.

Any pics of typical installs, Id love to see placement and what these look like in action. (btw, I have

ED)

Osiris · 07-07-2005, 07:37 AM

I dont have the time to draw out a diagram right now but about your DSSC vs. CarPC question, I have the latter. Im impressed with the functionality of it and how much it does. I only have one real complaint though, can we get in a more, ummm

, "finished" form? By that I mean mounted in side a case that allows accessibility to the config button and a way for you to see the lights also. When troubleshooting or test running your setup I have personally found that thing to be a pain in the @ss to try to keep safe. But this would apply to any of the SDC controllers. I cant tell you anything positive or negative about the DSSC as I have never personally used them. I can say though that I would buy my CarPC Pro again and recommend it based on personal experiences with thte product and company. Hope this helps.

CavityCr33p · 07-07-2005, 07:45 AM

Thank you Osiris, I have some small sheets of plexi I was debating on using to encase mine.

That way I could see the lights, etc.

Can you confirm to me that it acts like a distro block?

Osiris · 07-07-2005, 07:53 AM

No it will not act as a distro block. They are in essence small circuit boards much like motherboards. You do not want to run any high voltage to them. Just run a small gauge wire to it for power. You will have to run power wire to your location then get a car audio distro block and split it to your amp and inverter. I went to walmart and got an amp wireing kit with a 4 gauge / 8 gauge power wires and all included hardware for about $20. Thats all you will need and you will most likely survive the crank issue with this setup also.

evandude · 07-07-2005, 08:16 AM

they are generally not intended to be switching power to high-power devices... generally you would attach the output to turn-on signals to your devices (remote turn-on wire for an amp, and perhaps run to a heavy-duty relay wired to the inverter power switch) and then go to the power button pins on the motherboard header to turn the PC on. so generally the battery connection goes to both the SDC and the devices, and the ACC line goes only into the SDC, whose outputs go to turn on the devices.

i'm not familiar with those you posted personally, but generally they will provide some sort of high-current switched output with a relay. you can use that as a sort of "distro block" for something like your screen, etc... devices that don't suck huge current. but don't try to run your amp or inverter from it, those should be hard-wired for power and switched by the SDC.

CavityCr33p · 07-07-2005, 08:27 AM

Ok, great! I guess I will go ahead and get one just for the fact of not having to push a switch each time.

I see what you mean now, really, its only the 12v switched that gets used here essentially. Why do they say in the instructions to run the 12v constant to them? Why would you need that if you are just using the switched to turn things on and off.

evandude · 07-07-2005, 08:57 AM

well you still need the 12v unswitched for the SDC. for one, that's what actually powers the SDC's circuitry... and also as I said, the SDC generally provides a switched 12v output, which it switches from a permanent 12v line... this is because not every switched 12v line is going to be capable of supplying lots of current, whereas a hard-wired 12v line should be capable of lots of current. the relays on SDC's are sometimes 10 or more amps, and personally I would never want to try pulling 10 or more amps out of my ACC line. at best, i'm sure it would blow a fuse, at worst, it would probably make everything in my dash go haywire when the computer was running... since the SDC only has to use the ACC line as a logic input (just detects when it is powered) it draws little to no current on the ACC line.

as an example of what can happen when you power things from your accessory line, i had a 5v regulator powering a small LCD in my dash, and the LCD draws over 0.5A because of the backlight... the regulator didn't have a very big heatsink on it, and it was crammed in my dash... well the regulator overheated a lot, but i never knew it, until it started to fail on me... after a while it would heat up and then it would start intermittently shorting the ACC line I believe, because everything on my dash would flicker about twice per second, and my turn signal relay (for some reason) would click along with it... so I'd just hear "click click click click click click" and the whole dash was pulsing... so I wired the regulator to my shutdown controller, which gave it a relay-switched 12v from the fixed 12v line, and put a bigger heatsink on it, and it's been fine ever since.

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