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02-21-2006, 10:17 PM
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#46
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FLAC
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle: STi
Posts: 1,573
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Train that left, meaning your too late.
Inverter in your setup huh, well in 2002 I got a DC-DC PS and never even tried a inverter knowing they are not good. 12v to 120v to 12v, o yea you like complicated things.
Go get a new M2-ATX and stop complaining that you can't carpute.
newbie with 36 posts thinks they know everything.
Last edited by LESLIEx317537; 02-21-2006 at 10:22 PM.
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02-22-2006, 03:21 AM
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#47
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Scotland
Vehicle: 1971/Scimitar/SE5, Ford Focus TDCI
Posts: 728
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LOL I was wondering when someone would have a go for only having a few posts. yes your right I have only been working in the computer industry for 10 years and a hardware engineer for 5 of them, I know nothing. Where you on the other hand with your 1464 obviously know everything there is, its just a shame most of them are yanking on peoples chains.
Dude unless you have something valuable to say that will help me and others who obviously have the same problem with the M2 and the SP1300 please shut up and get the hell out of my thread. Go play with your $10 bit of plastic and LED's and let the big boys fix things they are having trouble with.
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02-22-2006, 10:09 AM
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#48
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FLAC
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle: STi
Posts: 1,573
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Looks like I have helped alot more people than you on this forum.
And it's a SP13000 not SP1300.
I have said something valuable. If you have a broken product and it doesn't work after testing it, you get a new one. Not post here and hope it will eventually work. Yes if other have had similiar problems, then wake up, it's a problem, so get a new one.
And why you telling me to shutup? You rude Scottish fool. Go play your bag pipe, you guys invented nothing over there.
I don't care what you are, I got a working carpc and you don't and I got more skillz than you. And I tried to help, but you think you know more than me and keep talking back. Just listen to me and get a new M2 and then post 1000 more posts to help other people, then you can talk back.
You asked for any ideas, I gave you some, you didn't like my ideas or testing methods and nowyour complaining about me. Well guess what, that ain't gonna fix your M2.  
Everyones a techie on the forum, not only you, but some people have things to show. You have nothing to show, just broken stuff.... ahhaha show me your workign carpc in a pic, I got plenty.
And my 4 cylinder will smoke your V8.
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02-22-2006, 10:12 AM
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#49
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FLAC
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hou. TX
Vehicle: 99 Trans Am
Posts: 1,458
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I think LESLIEx317537 needs to be banned.
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02-22-2006, 10:14 AM
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#50
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FLAC
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle: STi
Posts: 1,573
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Um who has a working M2-ATX and SP13000?
Me me me.
Who has a non functioning M2-ATX and SP13000?
You you you?
Who needs to fix and do somethign about it?
You you you.
You hater. Why you hatin on me?
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02-22-2006, 10:15 AM
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#51
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FLAC
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle: STi
Posts: 1,573
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Quote: Originally Posted by JasonWW
I think LESLIEx317537 needs to be banned.
Whatever. SO I've been helping people here for 4 yeras and you think I should be banned now cause he's telling me to shutup?
Cause I told him to use a 10 dollar tester and he insists to use his 1000 dollar fluke meters?
This is funny. I was trying to help duh!
Last edited by LESLIEx317537; 02-22-2006 at 10:19 AM.
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02-22-2006, 11:06 AM
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#52
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FLAC
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle: STi
Posts: 1,573
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Let me rephrase what I was trying to help you do.
Test your M2-ATX with a cheap simple tester, if the LEDs don't light up, then you can tell your vendor and he will exchange it.
It's simple, no need to do anything furthuer, it should work without adding resistors to change the ramp timing, leave that to them if they screwed it up.
But you keep telling me that my tester won't work, well if it doesn't it doesn't but maybe it will. If it does work as I said in my FAQ, it will take the guesswork out of what is and is not working.
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02-22-2006, 11:14 AM
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#53
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Scotland
Vehicle: 1971/Scimitar/SE5, Ford Focus TDCI
Posts: 728
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cos your a twat read the post I did get a new M2 yesterday hence why I posted again. The new power supply was supposed to be modified ( you would have known that if you had read the thread) a lot of people are waiting on these so I was reporting that it didnt work for me. I dont need you jamming a a cheap pile of junk down my throat that tells you nothing, I dont need you telling me its broke, I know it is and I dont need a 2 year old going mine works yours doesnt. End of Story godbye.
Ok back on to what the thread is about. I have been in contact a lot with Andrei and testing a few things so hopefully we will get to the bottom of this. I have a few other things to try out tonight that might tell a story so here is hoping.
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02-22-2006, 11:18 AM
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#54
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FLAC
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle: STi
Posts: 1,573
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Have you tried purchasing from another vendor?
Maybe all his batches are bad?
You said he just fixed it? Or you acutally got a new one? Meaning new board, not fixed or refurbished.
My local vendor sold alot here and he hasn't heard any complaints from his customers. That's where I got mine.
Also, this doesn't apply for you, but I noticed alot of people are testing the M2-ATX with Desktop PC Power Supplies. When I charged my Lithium Polymer batteries with my Triton battery charger hooked up to a PC PS, I had to add two ceramic resistors to bring the voltage up higher than 12 volts, cause it needed some load to get to the correct voltage.
Hahah you mad. 
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02-22-2006, 11:36 AM
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#55
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Scotland
Vehicle: 1971/Scimitar/SE5, Ford Focus TDCI
Posts: 728
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I got a new one, the new one is from the manufacturers. The old one was never broken it just wont boot an SP13000 or rather it just wont boot some SP13000's. Thats why the manufacturer changed the design. Read post 11 on this thread, that is a post from the manufacturer. The modified/new design was supposed to boot all SP13000 but in my case it hasn't worked. Nobody else who has the same problem has posted yet so I assume they havent recived their new unit yet.
Your also spot on with the ATX supply, they will only put out the proper voltages when they have a load on them. They dont regulate properly when there is no or very little load.
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02-22-2006, 11:37 AM
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#56
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
Vehicle: 2004 Nissan Murano
Posts: 465
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V8 scimitar,
I am replacing my M1 with a M2 which has not arrived yet. I also bought the tester LESLIEx317537 is recommending. With my M1 I had a similar problem. Tester showed the M1 to be good yet it failed to post just as your M2 failes. What is more, it was an intermittent problem so sometimes it worked several boots in a row, sometimes it did not for a long time. I could always boot the board if I rapidly pressed the reset button several times in a 2 second period. So the issue was definitely a "timing" problem. What bothers me is why it was intermittent. It should either have worked, or have not worked....correct? Does yours boot at all?
__________________
Compaq Evo D510 e-PC - P4 2.0 - 512M RAM - 120G 3.5 HD - 7" Xenarc 700TSV - DSATX fitted nicely inside the PC case
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02-22-2006, 11:44 AM
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#57
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FLAC
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle: STi
Posts: 1,573
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Zebelkhas, that's good info to know that the tester showed it working and it still doesn't boot.
You also checked the ram? (Just making sure)
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02-22-2006, 12:01 PM
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#58
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FLAC
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: SOCAL
Vehicle: 2005 Ford Mustang GT
Posts: 1,138
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Is this problem similar to the OPUS and some Biostar motherboards? I had to send it in to have it fixed becuase I had a older psu. I guess try a relay until this is fixed maybe.
FROM PSU - PW-SW=========> RELAY | | | | = Motherboard pins
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02-22-2006, 02:08 PM
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#59
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Scotland
Vehicle: 1971/Scimitar/SE5, Ford Focus TDCI
Posts: 728
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that tester will only show that there is power on the rails it wont show anything else. I guess if the timing is marginal then sometimes it might catch it ok and sometimes it wont. Guess the same is true of the SP 13000, they must vary slightly in production so some boards will boot and some wont. At least thats all I can think of the reason being anyway. Trouble is it makes it a sod to sort, minibox is sitting with an SP that boots but mine doesnt, Lesliex will boot but Linde's wont. Its just a head nip really. What gets me is that all the normal ATX supplies I have tried boot the board just fine, from expencive to cheap and nasty. So there must be something very different about the way the M2 turns on because there must be a standard that all the normal supplies work. I know the obvious with it being intelegent but even in dumb mode (no jumpers set) it still wont boot.
No mine wont boot at all, the board seems to hang so you have to hold the power button in for around 5 secs before it will power off. This means the rapid switching on and off cant happen. I did try on off quickly with the 12 power supply but it wouldnt boot this way either but then I didnt expect it to as the M2 takes about 3 sec to actually supply power to the board when it has just been connected up.
It might be the same as the opus, no idea as I dont know what problem it had. What relay are you on about?
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02-22-2006, 10:39 PM
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#60
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Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 24
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Im having a similar problem (doh!)) Im using a amd socket a board- none of the via one that seem to be so problematic.
I bought mine about 2 weeks ago- would that be the revision or not?
Last edited by nealric; 02-22-2006 at 10:46 PM.
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