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Old 07-16-2006, 04:41 AM   #1
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M1-ATX and Xbox Success!

Today I was able to adapt an M1-ATX to my Xbox 1.6 after hours and hours of research and about 9 hours of grueling labor.

First step was to find your xbox atx connector pinout and compare it to the pinout on an actual atx pc connector.

Xbox Pinouts



2nd step was to adapt the PWRON wire w/ a small circuit in order to make it operate properly at 3.3v vs 5v. On 1.0-1.5 xbox this is a bit longer procedure, but all info for both can be found here:

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=472386

3rd Step: I mounted the power supply to my dvdrom tray (i have used it maybe once in the past year so its no loss to me) using standard motherboard risers from an atx case. I did the same for the small expansion board made in step 2.

4th Step was to attach the motherboard on/off switch on the m1-atx to the xbox power switch. I'm sure you can find info on where to locate the switch online, but i used the xbox repair manual for instructions on how to locate it on the front panel. I then used my expansion board for the ground wire.

Finally: Success!

The Xbox turns on 5 seconds after ACC detection from the power supply.
One problem I found was that when it goes to turn if off after ACC is Off the xbox just resets, but this is not a big deal being I set the jumper on the M1-atx to force HardOFF after 45seconds of ACCOFF. So this way xbox is on in 5sec and turned off in 45sec.

Here are photos of my install:
http://www.ifuwanttolisten.com/xbox/index.php?dir=xbox

Last edited by ifuwanttolisten; 07-19-2006 at 10:42 AM.
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Old 07-18-2006, 09:58 AM   #2
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I recently emailed Mark Morgan (the creator of the diagrams on xbox-scene) and he told me that it wouldn't work. That you couldn't use an atx power supply on the xbox. I figured this was due to the fact that v1.6 is still being supplied 5v when it is in stand-by.

Did you have to do anything different to get it to work? I really want to install a dc-dc power supply. The inverter is way too noisy.
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Old 07-18-2006, 10:02 AM   #3
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did you read a word i said?
hah

i used his diagram on that link i posted.. but i only used the lower portion. I ended up running all the 5v standby lines for my 1.6 from 1 single wire on the ATX connector... The purple 1 i believe... i also pulled a line from this to make the transistor circuit....

if you have a 1.6 xbox w/ the delta psu you can use just the lower part of the diagram he has in that thread

good luck
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Old 07-18-2006, 10:13 AM   #4
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Awesome! Yea, it was the stand-by wire that I wasn't sure on. I had thought about splitting the single 5v vsb for all the connections, but I wasn't sure that it would provide enough amps to power the mobo (that line maxes out at 3 amps). But, if it's working for you, obviously it does!

Thanks for all the info! Time to order my m1 now that I know that it works. :-D

One last question. You said you mounted the m1 where the dvd-rom would go. Does the psu not fit where the stock psu goes or is this just because of the additional circuit board required?

Last edited by K.J.; 07-18-2006 at 10:19 AM.
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Old 07-18-2006, 10:17 AM   #5
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Yeah it's not a big deal... at full load the may I've seen my xbox pull is 3.7amps. I have yet to put it into the car though since my project has quite a few steps left, but I have been able to monitor it quite a bit using my adjustable power supply.
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Old 07-18-2006, 01:09 PM   #6
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After looking up the specs on the M1, that split is probably not a good idea. It shouldn't break anything, but it probably won't be able to keep the xbox on very long as the psu will shut off.

The vsb line on the M1 is so only supposed to support up to 1.5A (2A bursts).

However, since you arn't running a DVD-ROM (which gets power via the mobo), you are probably able to stay under that. When you quoted a max draw of 3.7A, were you talking total (including dvd-rom and hdd) or just the mobo?
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Old 07-18-2006, 01:16 PM   #7
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no dvdrom

mobo and hd... i left the xbox playing movies last night 1 right after the other for about 7hours straight w/ no problems...
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Old 07-18-2006, 03:00 PM   #8
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I'll be wanting to run a dvd-rom as well. Would it be possible to run the 5v vdc lines in parallel with the 5v vsb so that it could draw extra current from the vdc (once it gets out of stand-by)?

I wish I knew more about the powering of computers, because there will only be a problem if the bulk of the xbox power consumption is on the 5v line (not counting the hdd which will still be drawing from vdc in your configuration). If the bulk of the power is being drawn from the 12v line this isn't a problem. Anyone know what dvd-rom's and mobo's use most?

Last edited by K.J.; 07-18-2006 at 03:04 PM.
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Old 07-18-2006, 03:09 PM   #9
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mean it should be possible... you add voltage in series.. and you add current in parallel...

so just make sure u do put the voltage in parallel

i'm an Electrical Engineering student but i've just taken basic circuit theory courses end of august is when i start learning about electronics so i'll mention your idea to a friend of mine who is an engineer and see what he thinks

i know for a hd and dvd drive they do use the 12v line but they also use the 5v and then the 12 w/ 5 as ground to get 7v
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Old 07-18-2006, 03:37 PM   #10
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Hmmm... The 5v is run as ground? I thought PSUs were supposed to trip and turn off if they were to run backwards?

I'm a Computer Engineering student, but just like you, I've only had a basic circuit class...elevator lifts and counter circuits are a little bit simpler than an ATX psu... :-p
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Old 07-18-2006, 03:43 PM   #11
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no no

ok here is cool tricks you can do by pairing wires

12v gnd = 12v
5v gnd = 5v
3v gnd = 3v
12v 5v = 7v
12v 3v = 9v
5v 3v = 2v

Voltage is potential difference.. so if u have a 12v wire and a 0v (ground) you get 12... if u pair 12v wire w/ 5v(in place of the ground) you get 7v

get what i mean?

last semester i had to design an alarm system and i didnt want to spend much money so i used an old at power supply and needed 7v for the siren i had so i used the 12v and 5v line... i'm not positive but im sure cd and dvd drives have to do stuff like that

i will check into the use of the other 5v lines and let u know what my friend thinks
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Old 07-19-2006, 04:10 AM   #12
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Quote: Originally Posted by ifuwanttolisten
no no

ok here is cool tricks you can do by pairing wires

12v 5v = 7v
12v 3v = 9v
5v 3v = 2v

Voltage is potential difference.. so if u have a 12v wire and a 0v (ground) you get 12... if u pair 12v wire w/ 5v(in place of the ground) you get 7v

get what i mean?

Yes, I get what you mean, and if you start doing this with switch mode power supplys you may get more than you bargained for!

(especially if you get a gnd-gnd connection between anyof the bits)


IE 12 and 5 for a 7, youconnect equipment to the 12 and 5, the 12 will go through your equipment and bring the 5 upto 12, as its designed to SOURCE not DRAIN current/voltage, result (hopefully) power supply sees its 5 is now above 5 and trips.

Bad result is 5v rail trips, 12 doesnt, now you have a either a 12 and o/c OR 12 and gnd.......... your 7 just became 12....

Just a thought from someone who has had this happen
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Old 07-19-2006, 08:25 AM   #13
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Yea, that's what I'd be worried about. But Lez, is there any reason I shouldn't be able to run the 5v standby in parallel with the regular 5v line to increase available amps on the standby line (while not in standby, of course)?

Also, has anybody run a Xbox off an inverter in their car and know how much noise it introduces to the a/v signal? If it's not much, I might just take the easy route. After all, it's not that important to have the Xbox automagically turn on. A simple lighted on/off switch can control the inverter and a momentary push button connected to ground can turn the xbox on/off.

Last edited by K.J.; 07-19-2006 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 07-19-2006, 07:08 PM   #14
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Quote: Originally Posted by K.J.
Yea, that's what I'd be worried about. But Lez, is there any reason I shouldn't be able to run the 5v standby in parallel with the regular 5v line to increase available amps on the standby line (while not in standby, of course)?


Its not going to be a problem that I can see with an AC pc psu as they tend to have diode outputs, but with a dc-dc psu I would need to see its diagram.

You could put a diode on the lines, amps choosen to suit, and get 4.4 volt, but that may not be enough, but it should do no damage to test.

If its really needs 5 volt then its going to a relay to get no loss.


If you need 5 volt all the time why switch it off?



Does this mean we can have a xbox based carpc ???
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Old 07-20-2006, 12:20 PM   #15
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I'm going to try powering it off an inverter first. That's an awful lot of money and work for something that "might" work, so I'm going to see if I can get clean sound off an inverter I've got sitting around.

In other news, NEVER BUY ANY LEGACY PRODUCT!! I bought an LM56 trying to go cheap on a display. I didn't care much about it as long as it was readable. The product description said "high resolution" and the photo of the device had brilliant picture quality. Well it's all a lie. The screen is grainy AND blurry (I didn't think you could have both), and it shakes ridiculously even on a clean 12v power line from a psu. I've seen higher resolution on my grandmother's b/w furniture tv while watching I Love Lucy.

And to answer your question, YES, you can use an Xbox as a carputer. The Xbox pretty much is a computer, and if you mod it you can run software called Xbox Media Center. The software is AMAZING. It can run pretty much any format and has a very clean and easy to use layout. I've been using it as a Media Center for years and have always wanted to do an install in my car. With Xbox's dirt cheap and beefy hard drives even cheaper, I figured now was the time.

Last edited by K.J.; 07-20-2006 at 12:24 PM.
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