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01-19-2007, 03:36 AM
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#31
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 36
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I've finished the board and everything fits correctly. Its a one layer board that requires you to solder components on both sides of the board, which means you need to have a little bit of soldering skills, but you don't have to be an expert. However I am having a few problems which I'm working out, but I'm almost there. Once I have the issue resolved, I will post the PC Board drawing. The last thing I want, is to provide a board which doesn't operate correctly.
Last edited by optczr : 01-19-2007 at 11:03 AM.
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01-19-2007, 03:51 AM
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#32
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 36
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The layout requires a few jumpers, but its only a few. You can also see that you can still trim the board a little more to make it just a little smaller.
Last edited by optczr : 01-20-2007 at 10:46 AM.
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01-19-2007, 03:54 AM
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#33
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 36
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I designed the LCD pinouts from the PIC to be a straight connection to almost every 16X2 LCD display. This means if you put pins on your 16X2 display, you can take a computer ribbon cable (IDE or floppy) and make the connection.
Last edited by optczr : 01-19-2007 at 10:41 AM.
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01-19-2007, 04:29 AM
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#34
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Vehicle: 01/BMW/325ti
Posts: 394
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Just found this thread and have not read it all. I like the idee of the char LCD. I found the video very nice too. (why can't kids tell when you are busy!!??) I will probably steel some of your idee's LUWE.
Even if I might reuse the IKE char display that came with my car accessible thru IBus... Dono.
Good work and posting!
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01-19-2007, 01:42 PM
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#35
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Low Bitrate
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Nebraska
Vehicle: 2006 Honda Civic
Posts: 96
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HAHA, I wondered if anyone heard my little girl banging on the car door. That was sooo funny.
OP - the select button is attached to the D2 pin, circuit it the same way all the other buttons are. Sorry about that oversight. And your board looks fantastic BTW, very good work! Don't forget to put a heatsink on your main power 7805 voltage regulator. And for the LCD power transistor, attache the base pin to the D6 pin, the collector to the +5v, and the other pin to the + PWR pin on the LCD. I would bench test it on a breadboard first , it should work theoretically.
Last edited by LUWE SYGABU : 01-19-2007 at 01:58 PM.
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01-19-2007, 02:34 PM
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#36
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 36
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Thanks Luwe:
I will implement the add-ons and test the board. I hope to be done this evening and have everything posted...
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01-21-2007, 08:41 PM
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#37
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Mentor, OHIO
Vehicle: 2008 FBP Civic SI
Posts: 222
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Ok i am really new to this... i have no idea were to begin, if you can point me into a direction or something of that sort to get me started...
also what parts u used and what not?
Thanks Alot!
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01-22-2007, 10:49 PM
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#38
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Freeport, IL.
Vehicle: 01 Intrepid
Posts: 313
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Quote: Originally Posted by optczr 
Thanks Luwe:
I will implement the add-ons and test the board. I hope to be done this evening and have everything posted...
Any progress on this?
__________________
Peese
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01-22-2007, 11:20 PM
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#39
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 264
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Ohhh, this is sweeet!
Is it possible to buy one of these puppies? I have two left thumbs when it comes to soldering.
PM is fine. TY!
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01-23-2007, 12:09 AM
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#40
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 36
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Hi everyone:
I'm about 95% complete on the new board layout, so just be patient a bit longer. I'm designing the board to make it as easy as possible and as small as possible so that anyone can put this together..
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01-24-2007, 07:01 PM
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#41
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 36
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Ok, I have completed the board and drilled all the holes, but I still need to clean the tracks to remove the ink, but I posted it anyway. This board is a little smaller then the last board. It includes the add-on which Luwe provided and I have also made some changes to the input power section, (so hopefully you will not need a heat sink). The board again is a single sided board, but this time only a few components will need to be soldered on the other side of the board.
I will begin the process of stuffing the board and begin testing, again making sure thing are fine with the board layout. So about 1 more day to go and I will post the layout and the parts list...
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01-24-2007, 08:11 PM
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#42
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Georgia
Vehicle: 2000/Chrysler/300M
Posts: 513
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any chance I could get you to build one me already made for a set price?
I have no way of programming the pic so that would add on to the DIY cost. Also don't have the etching materials. so parts may be low cost but final cost for someone with nothing gets to be quite high.
In any case I was planning on a carnetix 2140 for all my needs.... but now I don't know after seeing the video..
__________________
Car : 00' Chrysler 300M
Speakers : Rainbow Audio SLC 265 | Subs : Diamond Audio D6 12" Subs X2
Amp's : Hifonics ZXi 6006 AB | Hifonics BXi 1606 D
CarPC: HP Laptop AMD Sempron 3000+ | 1.5GB RAM | DVD+RW | 80GB 5400RPM HD | ATI R200 Video
Last edited by Ruffy : 01-24-2007 at 08:22 PM.
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01-24-2007, 11:17 PM
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#43
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Low Bitrate
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Nebraska
Vehicle: 2006 Honda Civic
Posts: 96
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OP - Looks good man, I can see that you have put a lot of effort into your project. I love to see that kind of ambition. I'm not sure what you have done to avoid using a heat sink, but I would certainly suggest using something to dissipate the excessive heat generated by the primary voltage regulator. If you did come up with a way to keep it cool without a heat sink, let me know, that is one thing I get concerned about with mine.
That Carnetix 2140 looks pretty sweet. I think that it would be a good choice to handle your power control.
I have been preoccupied for the last several months with several different projects. Because of this I have put the final programming for this controller on the back burner. My original intent was to make myself a sweet controller that worked and was customizable and easy to build. And more importantly, it was a challenge. I figured it was only right to share my efforts with everybody here as an attempt to pay back the help I recieved here. Please understand that the code is not perfect, and if you do not have a D18S20 temp sensor attached, then the LCD will always read incorrect. And the below freezing temp is not configured properly. I need to just sit down for an evening and code it properly. I had hoped that others could take my stuff and run with it, just as Optczr has. Bare with me. I'll get it finished.
Therefore, if I or Optczr or anybody else starts building these things and sending them to those who can't reprogram the chips with new firmware, we will be providing a device that will not operate at 100%.
Thanks for your support
Last edited by LUWE SYGABU : 01-24-2007 at 11:21 PM.
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01-25-2007, 01:02 AM
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#44
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 36
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Thanks for the comp Luwe.. Believe me, I understand what you mean about trying to make time, which is the reason why this version board took a bit longer then planned. As for the power section, If my implementation works and the main power supply doesn't get hot, then I will list what I did for everyone. However if it doesn't, the board has also been designed to accommodate the original design.
As for the carnetix 2140, it looks like a sweet unit. However I understand what you mean about building costs and not having all the equipment to make such a unit. However since I have been working on this for a while some luck and no luck, I do have some extra parts, but let me finish this board first and I will list what I have extra, which I do have two extra programmed Pic's. But like Luwe stated, if you don't have a PIC programmer you will not be able to reprogram the chips with new firmware.
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01-25-2007, 02:16 AM
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#45
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Georgia
Vehicle: 2000/Chrysler/300M
Posts: 513
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my dream package is the 2140 + this type of LCD layout and button control. Posted it on carnetix. maybe the 2190 or whatever comes out in the future will have it/support it
__________________
Car : 00' Chrysler 300M
Speakers : Rainbow Audio SLC 265 | Subs : Diamond Audio D6 12" Subs X2
Amp's : Hifonics ZXi 6006 AB | Hifonics BXi 1606 D
CarPC: HP Laptop AMD Sempron 3000+ | 1.5GB RAM | DVD+RW | 80GB 5400RPM HD | ATI R200 Video
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