Hardware Review: 41hz.com Amplifier Kit - Page 2

RSXelrate · 11-19-2007, 07:45 PM

Out of curiosity, why wouldn't they make these preassembled? And if a 4x60w amp is able to be built so small, why are normal automotive amps so big?

FirebirdTN · 11-19-2007, 08:06 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by scottgs

[/i]

You will lose reverse-polarity protection by doing this. Could be valuable if someone ever hooks up the battery backwards. I've had this happen and it blew my amps...

[/i]

You might want to be cautious removing the caps completely. Removing the caps will likely result in a reduction in low-frequency response and overall dynamic range. The caps are there for two reasons, one is to help filter noise and ripple, but the other is to provide a low-impedance high-current power source for the moments when a lot of power is necessary such as during heavy bass notes or drum beats. If you take out the caps, you will have to ensure you have heavy guage wiring all the way to the battery, and even then, the amp will probably still suffer.

If you look at the design of this amp kit, it is actually designed to be powered from an AC source, and has on-board rectification and filtration, but NO on board regulation. As I said above if your powering from a DC source, you can eliminate the large bulk caps as the bulk caps are meant to smooth the rectified AC; which is a non-issue in DC applications. Granted, automotive DC isn't "pure clean DC", but there is actually a total of 6 total capacitors on the supply rail-in the auto environment, the 3 bulk caps can be removed without a problem. Also, this is a 4 channel full range PDM amp, not a linear or sub amp, and at the power levels present, large bulk caps for bass response just isn't necessary. Absolute max current draw on this amp at 13.8volts with all channels driven with 4 ohm loads is only 13.8 amps.

It is true by removing the bridge you loose reverse polarity protection, but just pay attention to what your doing and don't reverse the leads. I personally want every bit of power I can get and do not want the voltage drop and its associated loss of power accross the bridge.

-Alan

stonestatue · 12-02-2007, 10:15 PM

I am glad to see someone write a review of this product and act as a guinea pig. I am also planning on getting one of these to put into my integrated carputer as a complete replacement for a head unit.

I want to make the carputer as integrated as possible, meaning I want as many accessories/devices inside the unit as possible. This would include: motherboard, PSU, WiFi card, and of course, the AMP 9 kit. Something like this:
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/fabr...ps-indash.html

I might even completely gut my existing factory stereo and put everything inside there to allow for an OEM fit.

Would there be a risk of components blowing if the chassis comes in contact with ground (via mounting bolts, etc)?

FirebirdTN · 12-03-2007, 05:42 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by stonestatue

I am glad to see someone write a review of this product and act as a guinea pig. I am also planning on getting one of these to put into my integrated carputer as a complete replacement for a head unit.

I want to make the carputer as integrated as possible, meaning I want as many accessories/devices inside the unit as possible. This would include: motherboard, PSU, WiFi card, and of course, the AMP 9 kit. Something like this:
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/fabr...ps-indash.html

I might even completely gut my existing factory stereo and put everything inside there to allow for an OEM fit.

Would there be a risk of components blowing if the chassis comes in contact with ground (via mounting bolts, etc)?

I'm still slowly working on mine, but my goal is the same as yours. Just wanted to point out, rather than gutting your factory radio, would a the kit available on this site work for you? I know they were designed from Subaru's, but might fit other applications as well. I know it works in my application.

http://store.mp3car.com/category_s/89.htm

-Alan

stonestatue · 12-03-2007, 12:04 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by FirebirdTN

I'm still slowly working on mine, but my goal is the same as yours. Just wanted to point out, rather than gutting your factory radio, would a the kit available on this site work for you? I know they were designed from Subaru's, but might fit other applications as well. I know it works in my application.

http://store.mp3car.com/category_s/89.htm

-Alan

What advantage would I have of buying this kit over using my factory chassis? I'm not shutting it out, just wondering.

FirebirdTN · 12-03-2007, 12:31 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by stonestatue

What advantage would I have of buying this kit over using my factory chassis? I'm not shutting it out, just wondering.

Only thing I can really think of is to save your OEM radio (in case you decide to trade it in later).

The kit is setup with pre-drilled holes for most motherboards (although they aren't tapped), and has the necessary little parts to mount a lilliput in it. Overall, not sure if its worth the $130, but if you want to maintain your OEM radio chassis and save some headache mounting the LCD, mobo, etc it might be of some benefit.

-Alan