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Old 05-01-2009, 09:03 PM   #46
Hey, you're trying for the goal by going the other way around, you're crazzzyyyy!
 
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Quote: Originally Posted by Bxsteez View Post
I like the texture of that false bottom. I don't know if its texture or just a fabric covering but its NICE!!!!

I agree, looks carbon fiberish.
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Old 05-01-2009, 09:41 PM   #47
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Quote: Originally Posted by Bxsteez View Post
I like the texture of that false bottom. I don't know if its texture or just a fabric covering but its NICE!!!!

It's is a carbon fiber-look vinyl, and it does look pretty authentic...
You can 'feel' the pattern actually, so yeah, I guess it's a texture.
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Old 05-28-2009, 03:54 PM   #48
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Wow, blown away
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Old 05-28-2009, 04:22 PM   #49
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Fantastic SVT.
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Old 05-31-2009, 03:42 AM   #50
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Great Install! Love the color matched Cargo Carrier, nice touch!

SVT Focus are nice but sloooow. Good for open tracks though and Mosport is one of my favs on the ALMS calendar, look forward too it this year!

Nice attention to detail and nice touches with the LED's and HID lighting, excellent work.

Might wanna throw a one of those intercooled supercharger kits on it...
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Old 05-31-2009, 07:38 AM   #51
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Thanks!!
With 230,000Km onit, I'd maybe want to rebuild the bottom end first...and then there is the clutch...
It's a daily driver right now, but I'd love to 'power it up' in the future for sure.
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Old 06-01-2009, 02:19 AM   #52
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Quote: Originally Posted by WuNgUn View Post
Thanks!!
With 230,000Km onit, I'd maybe want to rebuild the bottom end first...and then there is the clutch...
It's a daily driver right now, but I'd love to 'power it up' in the future for sure.

I wouldn't worry about mileage... Just do a leak down test and if its within the factory specs, look on Focaljet or another Focus forum and look for a used JRSC or Powerworks Intercooled Eaton blower kit. The Powerworks adds a fair amount of power, high recommended!

Modern engines just don't wear down like old designs, the Zetec is a modern design. My SRT-4 has 90+ thousand miles and has over 380+hp and the valve cover has never been off it, plus a couple of hundred 1/4 mile passes...

If you do quite a bit of open track, you might want to look at the Procharger Intercooled kit, which makes nasty top end power (and everybody knows your supercharged..), would like kinda of funny for you to blow by a Corvette on Andretti straight...

Again great car overall, just need a bit more umhp...
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Old 06-19-2009, 09:14 PM   #53
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[QUOTE=WuNgUn;1308054]



Nope...
Running active cross overs requires that the tweeter and the driver run off their own channel/line...
So basically, each L/R output jack on the sound card is going to a set of speakers...L is low-pass, for the driver, and R is hi-pass, for the tweeter
So, for just the front and rear speakers, there are 8 channels needed, which CAN be done with 1 sound card, but I also need a sub out and an output for the VU meters...

QUOTE]

hi wungun

i have a 3 way active setup..for my front and a sub.
now i am nervous to know if i can drive all my channel with my sound card(xonar) because you have 2 sound card

am i on the right track :O

Last edited by summer69guy; 06-19-2009 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 06-19-2009, 09:31 PM   #54
Hey, you're trying for the goal by going the other way around, you're crazzzyyyy!
 
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OMG you all lost me with the crossover stuff...........

So on my setup I am going to run 2 channels to each door, then from that it connects to a cross over, which then goes to the component speaker and tweeter. Is there any difference with the way it sounds running 4 channels to each door, like you have? That sounds like alot of wire, at least for me, the truck is going to have 6 component speakers! Plus the Xtreme Gamer doesnt have all those ports. I always wondered why you needed two soundcards like that, now I know.
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Old 06-20-2009, 07:27 PM   #55
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Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
OMG you all lost me with the crossover stuff...........

So on my setup I am going to run 2 channels to each door, then from that it connects to a cross over, which then goes to the component speaker and tweeter. Is there any difference with the way it sounds running 4 channels to each door, like you have? That sounds like alot of wire, at least for me, the truck is going to have 6 component speakers! Plus the Xtreme Gamer doesnt have all those ports. I always wondered why you needed two soundcards like that, now I know.

Well, technically, your only running 1 channel per door, if your using the passive crossovers. Basically, for example, just the full range left channel to the drivers door...
The split to your tweeter and driver is at your crossover, so if your x-over is also in the door with the speakers, then it's not so much wiring...

Running ACTIVE crossover, like mine, will allow much finer 'tuning' of the audio as far as levels, crossover slopes, crossover types, etc...
With passive, your stuck with what the manufacturer gave you...
And also, passive crossovers will eat some of the amps power as well.
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Old 06-20-2009, 07:37 PM   #56
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Quote: Originally Posted by summer69guy View Post
hi wungun

i have a 3 way active setup..for my front and a sub.
now i am nervous to know if i can drive all my channel with my sound card(xonar) because you have 2 sound card

am i on the right track :O

3 way is a little trickier...but you only require 7 channels (Xonar has 8), so your good there...so long as it's just the front stage and sub.

My 2-way was a little easier, because I just used the L/R out of each jack for my hi/lo...
For a 3-way, using AudioMulch for example, will take some creative patching...
You can run your mids and lows from a single jack (2 jacks...one each for L/R), but combine your L/R tweets on another jack, then give your sub a jack...you could even go stereo sub

On the amp side, it's also tricky, because you need 6 channels and a sub amp. 3 X 2 channel amps maybe?

Just be careful when configuring and testing to make sure you have the outputs properly selected. You don't want to send 60Hz to your tweets!
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Old 06-20-2009, 08:29 PM   #57
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hi wungun thansk for the help!it helps me a lot

for the amplifier i have all the equipement...cdt audio sqa4100 -kicker600 and a avionix axt800.2 i know how to set them...


MY Speaker are...6'' cdt es06....
2'' mid tweeter cdt-es02
1'' or a little less cdt drt 26


but it is my first carputer audio system..i hlope all will be fine
before i wanted to go with the drz of clarion..but i went with a pc :P>


a question...a good quality ...for sq....3.5mm jack to 2 femelle rca? Do you know where i can find one . i dont want to add to much noise by ading this conector.(i already have ,my rca installed in my car.)

Last edited by summer69guy; 06-20-2009 at 08:34 PM.
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Old 06-20-2009, 09:11 PM   #58
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what kind of fuse holder are you using to power your neon lights and the water cooling stuff? is it just a standard 8in/8out with a bunch of 14-18gauge bundled up/soldered in it with an AGU fuse? I've been trying to come up with a way to do this and that seems reasonable. its hard to find an 8ga in with smaller out fuse block.

looks awesome btw. i love the homemade RCA interconnects. what gauge wire did you use and did you twist them?
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Old 06-21-2009, 09:27 AM   #59
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Quote: Originally Posted by summer69guy View Post
hi wungun thansk for the help!it helps me a lot

for the amplifier i have all the equipement...cdt audio sqa4100 -kicker600 and a avionix axt800.2 i know how to set them...


MY Speaker are...6'' cdt es06....
2'' mid tweeter cdt-es02
1'' or a little less cdt drt 26


but it is my first carputer audio system..i hlope all will be fine
before i wanted to go with the drz of clarion..but i went with a pc :P>


a question...a good quality ...for sq....3.5mm jack to 2 femelle rca? Do you know where i can find one . i dont want to add to much noise by ading this conector.(i already have ,my rca installed in my car.)

The RCA's/3.5's I made myself, using Nakamichi solderless RCA's and Neutrik phono jacks...
The cable is Monster THX certified...
If you don't want to make 'em, I'm sure somebody sells them...

I made the RCA's JUST RCA's, then used female chassis RCA's connected to the 3.5mm jacks. Makes it cleaner looking, rather than dual RCA's off each 3.5mm jack...

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Old 06-21-2009, 09:34 AM   #60
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Quote: Originally Posted by roflcopter View Post
what kind of fuse holder are you using to power your neon lights and the water cooling stuff? is it just a standard 8in/8out with a bunch of 14-18gauge bundled up/soldered in it with an AGU fuse? I've been trying to come up with a way to do this and that seems reasonable. its hard to find an 8ga in with smaller out fuse block.

looks awesome btw. i love the homemade RCA interconnects. what gauge wire did you use and did you twist them?

I use a terminal block I got from work...used in industrial electrical cabinets, etc...it takes up to 10AWG wire.

You can see it on the left side of this pic...(not fully wired up)



It has a main power input, from a relay, which draws from a small 8AWG block...got it on Ebay I think. It has 4 outputs...
It's then distributed to each terminal that needs the power, i.e. water pump, lighting, HDRadio, etc...
This way, the OPUS doesn't have to power all this stuff...

The interconnects are just Monster Cable THX certified RCA's that I hacked up...
They are 2 wire, shielded, and teflon insulated...not twisted that I know of.
I'm gonna make a set of unshielded interconnects to test with later.

The speaker wire, however, IS twisted....hand braided!!
And with active crossover, a set to each tweeter and driver (X4)!

Here is the tweets;


And the drivers;

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