wkolodny

The built in regulator was cutting down on my amps. I wanted the ITPS to power on/off the screen and the pc. They werent getting enough amps with using the built in regulator.




I just shorted across the power button. I stuck a switch in series with the short to disable my hack manually. The buttons will not work while the power button is shorted. The remote still does though.


Still mounted in the console. Held in place via tiewraps and a tension rod. I still havent gotten around to fiberglassing it.

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wkolodny

Woo Hoo. I just passed 10,000 views for my car pc project write up. I feel like I just made the New York Times best seller list. Thanks to all of you for making it happen.

For my next trick I am going to try to outpost Frodo.

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frodobaggins

....no

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rboone

Would it be possible to use an OPUS power supply versus an ITPS with a cappucino PC?
I would like to use standyby instead of hibernate.

wkolodny

For some odd reason I have never been able to get my coffee pc to go into standby mode, only hibernate, so an opus would not be very useful. I would use it in a heartbeat if anyone knows the trick to get standby to work. The PC turns the screen off but the fan keeps running.

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wkolodny

I went ahead and installed the 1.53 beta drivers for the Griffin Powermate that someone had kindly uploaded to this board. It was pretty much the same in terms of installation. Had to remove the device 3 or 4 times and reboot a couple of times to get it to work after installation.

So far it has been working fine though my USB hub. Survives hibernation without any issues. As for changes from 1.52 to 1.53 there arent really any significant differences.

The little powermate tray icon is there all the time now. No way to disable it except by going into the registry. It does show a little / through it it indicate when it does not detect the Powermate. Of course the blue light never came on with 1.52 when it wasnt working either.

I have also noticed that the blue light dimming seems a little more sensitive now. Going from 20% volume to 1% produces noticible changes in the intensity of the LED.

The one thing I wish they had included is not there and that is the ability to disable the LED. The MAC users have that feature and it sure would be nice for PC users.

Oh and Online Help seems to be broken. I click the HELP button and nothing happens.

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wkolodny

Well I have been using frodoplayer and Copilot 7 for almost 6 months now without a hitch. Got in the car today and the PC resumed from hibernation as normal except that CoPilot 7 and Frodoplay 1.08 crashed upon startup.

Ok I was thinking great maybe I am having memory issues. Rebooted the PC and checked. No problem there but as soon as either of those 2 programs start they crash. Tried other progams such as Outlook and Streets and Trips and they work fine.

Then I noticed that Copilot was displaying a new splash screen on startup. It was now a new image hawking Copilot Version 8 saying it had great new features. I do not have my wifi enabled and I know that there is no version 8 so it got me thinking. I went ahead and changed my date back a month thinking that it was time based easter egg. I then restarted Copilot and still got the Version 8 Advertisment.

Now I was really confused. I turned my attention to Frodo instead. I had installed WMP 10 about a month ago and thought that maybe it was causing Frodo to crash for some reason. I tried launching WMP by itself and got the following error:

Your date is currently set to Sep 17,2064. This program will lock up and not run properly. Please reset your date. Doh. I had never changed my year, only the month and hadnt even thought to look at the year setting but sure enough my PC had propelled itself 60 years into the future. I went ahead and set it to todays date and now Frodoplayer and Colpilot work fine.

Very strange. But hopefully anyone with similiar problems will not have to pull their hair out after reading this.

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Redeyez

just a quick overview of the hardware (other than the stuff at the very begining) for anybody too lazy to read through all the posts :

USB Radio Xtreme
not good unless u get the ex. sound card & Radio amp
OBD II interface cable from OBD Diagnostics
good
silver griffin powermate from Compusa
good
Radio amp-http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=90100929&loc=111&sp=1

good
Creative Labs MP3+ external USB sound card.
good

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wkolodny

Or in other words I will probably no longer be available to answer PM's about my setup. After 9 months of ups and downs I am getting out of the Car PC arena. (At least for now). I went throught 2 PC's that mysteriously started to malfunction. One would no longer boot everytime. It seemed to only work on random intervals. The other decided to crash at random intervals.

I am kind of tired of having my car reboot.

I have already ripped out all of the components and am back to the original head unit.

I am hoping that this may be my next option: http://www.estone-tech.com/

Anyway thanks to those of you that have helped me out and good luck to those that I helped. If you need to reach me you can still send email. I just wont be checking this board much any more so dont bother PM'ing.

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titanicmusic14

Is there anything special about the first mount you had to hold your monitor up?

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