2004 Toyota 4runner

rando · 05-12-2004, 01:59 AM

6/28/2006: New install starts on post 118

1/19/2005: Updated pictures on page 6

The final product. As you can see, I've still got a slight gap to deal with. I made up the bezel and forgot that the front of the Lilliput is rounded a bit. You don't notice that when the panel isn't in the case. Oh well!

The Delorme USB GPS is mounted directly behind the screen, inside the dash, in the factory location for the GPS sensor.

rando · 05-12-2004, 02:07 AM

Modding the Lilliput. Here you can see how I cut the top and bottom of the LCD case and notched it to fit in the 2din opening. I then glued on some MDF to fill up the dash opening. Next came bondo, sanding, bondo, sanding, ... and them some nice black trim paint from pep boys. In all, it looks pretty close to an OEM install. I might take another shot at cleaning it up a bit more (I'm kind of anal like that).

frodobaggins · 05-12-2004, 02:12 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by rando

(sorry I couldn't figure out how to do in-line images)

You can do two things.

1) Attach 1 image per post
or
2) host them on a webserver and use vbcode to display them

Frodo

rando · 05-12-2004, 02:17 AM

test install in (front side)

rando · 05-12-2004, 02:18 AM

test install (back side)

rando · 05-12-2004, 02:20 AM

bondo pass 1

rando · 05-12-2004, 02:21 AM

Painted, reassembled, MDF box attached to back to hold the factory radio brackets.

rando · 05-12-2004, 02:22 AM

The M10k/C134 and Opus installed in the rear storage cubby.
See Post #79 for an updated picture.

rando · 05-12-2004, 02:24 AM

The amp under the passenger seat.

rando · 05-12-2004, 02:25 AM

Showtime! This pic would have been Frodoplayer but I only had 1.04 installed and it was wigging out too much. Once I get 1.07 installed, I'll put a new pic.

No, I don't have this skin anymore. I now use Roadrunner.

rando · 05-12-2004, 02:36 AM

I pulled 4 guage from the battery (fused), down the driver side wire tunnel, to a power distribution block under the rear seats. The fuses in the distribution block can be accessed by folding the rear seat bottoms forward. I ran 8 guage to the amplifier and 10 guage to the computer. The computer and amplifier have a common ground, under the front passenger seat. The RCA cables run down the passenger side wire tunnel and are are kept apart from the power cables. Speaker wires run up the center console and into the dash and attach to the factory speaker wires using a store-bought adapter harness. The turn-on wire is the same but running in the opposite direction. USB and VGA cables are also run from the dash and down the passenger side.

There is a (for now unpowered) USB hub I tossed under the center console to help make up the connections to the GPS and Touch screen controller. This will be either moved to the glove box or I'll make some holes in the center storage box which will allow other USB devices (keyboard, mouse, Network, Memory cards, Disks) to be attached, when needed.

At the moment, the LCD is still powered from the ciggarette lighter port. I still need to run a power wire from the PSU up to the screen to eliminate that problem. At the same time I'll run some power for by USB hub. Also the amp turn-on needs to come from the computer, and not the ignition switch. This should eliminate the 'thud' I get when the computer turns-on.

I also plan to tap the gear select lever switch(es) and run that back to the computer. This will allow me to disable certain software features (movies, etc) when the 4runner is in motion.

Right now I'm still working out which software package(s) to run. For GPS, I'm using Street Atlas 2004 and I also have MapPoint 2002. For a front-end and A/V playback I've been trying, MediaCar, MediaEngine, FrodoPlayer, and VOICES. None of them are (yet) the perfect solution, but each has capabilities far in excess of anything off-the-shelf navigation / stereo system. Still, I wish had a ton of time to roll my own code. I'm sure that would be satisfying. On the other hand, if one of these packages would release source code, I'm certain I could find time to code and post bug fixes as well as iron out some of the GPS integration issues. (sorry, I had to toss in my 2 cents on this issue).

rando · 05-12-2004, 02:37 AM

Thanks to everone here at MP3car.com This wouldn't have turned out nearly as well without the wealth of information shared here!

kscott · 05-12-2004, 02:25 PM

Damn that is smooth!! I can't wait till I have the time and $$ to do something similar in mine. Great work!!

jusatry · 05-13-2004, 05:59 PM

looks great rando!

Congratulations. Great location for the computer. What are you gonna do about cd/dvd?

rando · 05-13-2004, 07:21 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jusatry

What are you gonna do about cd/dvd?

Hey, thanks for your post. As you can see, your case worked out perfectly for me (once I reengineered an IDE cable to fit and found the proper flush mount screws

)

The DVD drive is still something I need to work out. It would be nice to be able to play, rip, burn content on the road but it's not essential for my purposes. Basically I've got two choices. I can mount a drive in the glove box (there's a handly shelf in there that would work perfect for a drive). The other choice is to just plug in the DVD drive (via USB) when I need to use it. I'll probably go with the latter solution. I plan to add a few USB ports up front somewhere ... when i get a moment. For now, I just use an external USB disk drive to transfer media to the system. If need be, the computer is easily removed since it's only fastened to the cubby with straps.

Also, I just recevied my Radioman AM/FM serial thingy yesterday. I need to work out how I'm going to hook it up. Since there is already a USB hub buried under the center console, I'm thinking the best way to go is a serial to USB converter. That way I won't need to extend the antenna wires all the way to the back of the car.

BTW, the internal sound on the M10k sounds excellent in my system. I know others have had problems with it. I pick up a little noise from the computer itself, but nothing from the engine or otherwise. I'm thinking of going with USB sound since I could position it right next to the amp and only go into RCAs (analog) for a few inches. I'm hoping that such a solution will give me extremely clean sound, comparable (at least) to using the toslink connection.

I also need to work out the 5v standby power issue. So far my battery hasn't died, but I've read other posts where people were measuring 200mA while the system is off. That doesn't sound like the best thing for battery longevity. IIRC, lead acid batteries don't handle repeated drain/charge cycles well. It's unfortunate that the Opus 150 doesn't have a jumper to configure it to go COMPLETELY off. I may just add a relay to the battery input of the Opus.