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10-10-2005, 07:31 PM
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#76
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 188
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Yea, I took some messurement and it seems I should be able to make it fit in the upper glove box even with SP13000, an HDD and Slim DVD. I can relocate the M1-ATX in a near by space. The only problem is I dont have any fabrication skills, I am planning to build a box similar to existing storage box. I am thinking using pexiglass but I dont even know how to cut, blend or even glue it together?
BTW, I see that you are using GOC's screen. Here's a idea for you if you need easy access to DVD-ROM, you can disassemble the OEM CD-changer from the headunit and it'll give you rooms to fitted a slim DVD rom and use the existing CD insert opening. So it will look very OEM. Dont worry, the AC, tape and PAC will still work after CD-charger is taken out.
I asked around, it seems that the next best option other then the USB/gameport adapter would be to use a acutal USB analog gamepad.
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10-10-2005, 07:42 PM
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#77
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Raw Wave
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: SilverSpring Maryland
Posts: 2,960
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Quote: Originally Posted by civic5zigen
Nice install AOLhater, I am also in the process of building out a carputer for my G.
1. What do you think of the idea of putting the carputer in the upper glove box storage area? It seems like it will fit a EPIA board, M1-ATX, HDD, and possbility a slim notebook DVD-rom. I want to put a notebook DVD there since it's easy reach from driver side. Plus I dont have to run long cables to the back.
2. Do you have any type of steering control? I am trying to build one using God_of_cpu's instruction but as you know the EPIA board doesn't have USB and many user found the USB/GamePort adapter doesn't work well.
3. Where did you end up putting your GPS?
I tried to make a single DIN converter like thing for an ITX motherboard, but it just won't fit. It seems like it would and you might be able to actually get everything but the DVD drive to fit in that space, but there is no way that I could find to fit everything through the 2" high opening after it was mounted. Its really not that hard to get to the trunk if you run all your wires down the center of the car. It only takes me about 15 minutes to take everything off needed to run wires to the back now that I've done it once. Trunk mounting is definitly the simplest and quickest way to go.
It won't be as cheap, but you can use a girder plugin and the PAC SWI-X to use your steering wheel controls.
My GPS antenna is in my spoiler, I had to take it off and drill a hole through the bottom of it to mount it as well as cut and resplice the USB cable for it. Its not as good as when I just had it on my trunk lid, but the only time I have ever lost signal is when I am stopped under trees or through tunnels.
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10-10-2005, 07:49 PM
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#78
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Low Bitrate
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 67
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Sweet install! As far as GPS locks go, I think the LCD somehow creates alot of interference. I put the receiver in the stock location in my altima, and got crappy locks when I had my lilliput on, but when I turned it off (the receiver was hooked up to a laptop to test different locations), it got great locks in the same location! It's currently sitting beneath the rear window.
__________________
mATX mobo
2.4 GHz Celeron (prescott)
512 MB RAM
80 GB 3.5" HD
Runnin off an inverter (for now)
7" Lilliput
Microsoft (Pharos) USB GPS
Have yet to pull the trigger on a slim slot load DVD
STATUS: who knows... I don't
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10-10-2005, 08:06 PM
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#79
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Rohnert Park, CA
Posts: 1,122
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Quote: Originally Posted by atlharry
Sweet install! As far as GPS locks go, I think the LCD somehow creates alot of interference. I put the receiver in the stock location in my altima, and got crappy locks when I had my lilliput on, but when I turned it off (the receiver was hooked up to a laptop to test different locations), it got great locks in the same location! It's currently sitting beneath the rear window.
That certainly may explain it
I sorta wondered why the signal was so bad if it was the same location the stock antenna uses (although the stock system uses the speed signal and a gyro for better positioning)
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10-11-2005, 12:24 AM
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#80
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 188
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God_of_CPU, I can only found a 4 position Relay from Radio Shack instead of 3 PSDT as stated in your design. Will it work the same or I have to get an 3 position one?
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10-11-2005, 12:26 AM
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#81
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Rohnert Park, CA
Posts: 1,122
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Quote: Originally Posted by civic5zigen
God_of_CPU, I can only found a 4 position Relay from Radio Shack instead of 3 PSDT as stated in your design. Will it work the same or I have to get an 3 position one?
4PDT is fine just use 3 of the poles instead of 4
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10-11-2005, 12:37 AM
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#82
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 188
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Great thx, I'll try GOC desing with a usb gamepad and let u guys know the result. The SWI-X is easier but I also need to get an UIR recivier so the cost will be $80+.
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10-11-2005, 12:48 AM
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#83
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 188
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Thanks GOC for the recommandation. If I have to put it in the trunk, then do you recommand getting a Nforce Matx board with AMD mobile CPU instead of a SP13000, it seem I'll get better cpu, graphic and sound for less price. But I worry the M1-ATX wont be able to handle it.
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10-11-2005, 12:51 AM
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#84
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Rohnert Park, CA
Posts: 1,122
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You can get a nice desktop machine but youre sacrificing power consumption, heat output and size
M1 wouldnt be able to ahndle much I wouldnt think
I run my carputer while parked a lot so its important to me to have something with low power consumtpion.
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10-11-2005, 01:56 AM
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#85
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 188
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I was thinking more of a Matx board with onboard vid and sound just like the EPIA but better. Also the Anthlon Mobile only consume 35w and it can underclock to be run very cool. So for slightly less money, I am gett a faster machine, much better vid and sound.
Again, I need to find out rather the 90w M1-atx can power the system. It seem the forum's search function is not working.
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10-11-2005, 02:01 AM
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#87
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My Village Called
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Berkeley, CA
Posts: 10,517
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Quote: Originally Posted by aoLhaTer
A 220w PSU is alsmost out. I don't see how the M2 can compete with it (except for the cases were the case was designed for the M1).
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10-11-2005, 02:17 AM
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#88
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 188
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well, isn't that DATX cost $200+? That's $125 more then the M1-ATX.
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10-11-2005, 02:19 AM
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#89
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My Village Called
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Berkeley, CA
Posts: 10,517
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Quote: Originally Posted by civic5zigen
well, isn't that DATX cost $200+? That's $125 more then the M1-ATX.
DATX is more configurable. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to change the code in the DATX's microcontroller 
Oh, and notice I said M2... not M1
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10-11-2005, 02:27 AM
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#90
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 188
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Interesting, can you give a major advantage over M1 or M2 (isn't M2 just improve 12v+ rail?).
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