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Old 10-11-2005, 07:11 PM   #91
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Quote: Originally Posted by civic5zigen
Interesting, can you give a major advantage over M1 or M2 (isn't M2 just improve 12v+ rail?).

I didn't compare them. Search for that thread, it has the specs
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Old 10-11-2005, 08:54 PM   #92
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Guys, what's a PDT or PSDT?
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Old 10-11-2005, 09:01 PM   #93
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Quote: Originally Posted by farman
Guys, what's a PDT or PSDT?

Relates to relays (and pushbuttons but we're talking about relays)

SPDT = Single Pole Dual Throw
DPDT = Dual Pole Dual Throw
4PDT = Four Pole Dual Throw
etc etc

Further explanation here
http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/switch.htm
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Old 10-20-2005, 11:45 PM   #94
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aolhater, do you still have the inside of the cubby? Do you want to sell it?
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Old 10-21-2005, 01:31 AM   #95
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Sorry, planning on keeping that for when I sell the car
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Old 10-21-2005, 02:22 AM   #96
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I understand, btw I am getting ready to build the case and start wiring my car.

I am planning to put the pc beside the bose amp like you did. I don’t have much fabrication skills and with limited tools I think I would construct a case using plexi/acrylic. I am thinking of an open case construction, with just two level platform and no sides. The top layer holds the SP13000 MB and the bottom layer holds the 3.5" hdd and m1-atx. I think the components can benefit from the open design as there is more airflow. What’s your opinion and do you see problem such as moisture or other electronic problem with this design?



Also, may I ask how you run wire thru your car?

1. Do you tap in constant power directly from battery? If so, did you connect directly to the battery terminal or off from one of the fuse block hanging on the side of the positive terminal? Also, how do you run the cable from the hood into the car?

2. Where did you tap in the 12v switch power? From the head unit or from the bose amp?

3. Is there a good ground near the bose amp location? Where did you connect the ground?
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Old 10-21-2005, 02:36 AM   #97
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Only thing I can recommend with cases is that you use something that is a full enclosure and something that is metal. If you dont you're likely to lose your FM radio reception. If this doesnt matter to you then you can do anything you want really. I wouldnt worry about moisture really


1. DEFINITELY feed main power directly from the battery. I simply used 12 gauge cable and a ring terminal from the battery bolt. If you are planning to install more components in the trunk then I would suggest running either 0, 2 or 4 gauge cable and then using a distro block in the trunk. Run your power cables on the passenger side of the car and your video and audio cables on the drivers side. To run your power, open your hood and remove all the plastic around the battery cover by lifting up the plastic clips (take a screwdriver and ply out the round center). Youll see a rubber grommet in the top left. Youre going to need to make a new hole for your cable in this. Make the hole only big enough for what you need and after you run your cable MAKE SURE TO RESEAL THE HOLE WITH SILICONE SEALER OR THE LIKE (if you dont you're going to get some nice water running down all over your cables, not pretty). From there the cables on both sides should be run along the edges of the carpet. Just pull up the plastic pieces and pull up the carpet a little and put it under next to the existing cabling.


2. I got the switched power from the headunit, yes. Theres likely a better and closer place to get this from but I didnt want to do a lot of searching so I just used that

3. For a ground I used a factory hole in the top part of the trunk right at the break between the cabin and the trunk (passenger side). Looks like this




Let me know if you have any other questions
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Old 10-21-2005, 03:02 AM   #98
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Thanks, that is great info. I was thinking about the same just now when I look into the trunk. Since I don’t have any sealer, I may just unwrapped the black tape, feed the wire thru the hole and then wrapped with black tapes again.

As for the remote 12v, there is in fact one in the trunk that you can use. I find this out the hard way when one day my stereao stop working. I traced it to the amp not being power up because the factory remote lead doesn’t get power anymore from the head unit. There is an open connector near the bose amp, one of the lead can be use as remote power.


As for ground, the manual say the nearest one is B29. It is right by the driver side rear seat belt's lower point. But I guess any sanded body contact will work.

====

How did you secure your case in place? did you drill holes to the trunk floor?

Do you happen to have a pic of how you mount the gps? did you just use double side tapes?

Last edited by civic5zigen; 10-21-2005 at 03:19 AM.
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Old 10-21-2005, 03:45 AM   #99
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Electrical tape is still risky. Id just buy some sealant and do it; its not expensive

I used one of the bolt studs that was in that area near the amp. I drilled a hole in the bottom of my case and fit it over the stud. Then secured it using a bolt

The GPS is just wedged against the rear glass
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Old 10-21-2005, 03:48 AM   #100
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Man, how did you wedged, with what?

Also, have you looked into the steering wheel control? I tried the gamepad but it is not working. I am not good with electronic
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Old 10-21-2005, 06:03 AM   #101
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What's with that tape over there? Replace that with a proper wire.
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Old 10-21-2005, 03:15 PM   #102
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BTW, have you consider putting a DVD drive up front, may be in the upper glove box?

I am thinking about that, it seem we can fit a 5.25" (cheaper?) slot loaded DVD drive there. Then use one of the IDE-USB 2.0 adapter like thisthis which only cost $16.

The problem is power, not sure if I would need a external powered usb hub to connec to the DVD, the touchpanel, a gamepad will also be running off this hub and the extension cable would be at lease 10ft I guess? If I do need external powered then I would like to get one that can powered by DC so I can wire into car's 12v or 5v? Do want to connect to PSU since it is alreayd under load.
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Old 10-21-2005, 03:18 PM   #103
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Quote: Originally Posted by Cris
What's with that tape over there? Replace that with a proper wire.

Thats the wire from the inline fuse holder
Under the tape is a butt connector
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Old 10-21-2005, 03:22 PM   #104
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Quote: Originally Posted by civic5zigen
BTW, have you consider putting a DVD drive up front, may be in the upper glove box?

I am thinking about that, it seem we can fit a 5.25" (cheaper?) slot loaded DVD drive there. Then use one of the IDE-USB 2.0 adapter like thisthis which only cost $16.

The problem is power, not sure if I would need a external powered usb hub to connec to the DVD, the touchpanel, a gamepad will also be running off this hub and the extension cable would be at lease 10ft I guess? If I do need external powered then I would like to get one that can powered by DC so I can wire into car's 12v or 5v? Do want to connect to PSU since it is alreayd under load.

My next project I will put a DVD up front
I know I will probably never use it but its still good to have (can see its uses for transferring large amount of files). Ill mostly have just so people will stop asking me why I didnt put one in

You can do either slim or full, whatever fits your application. Slim will have better shock tolerances so it may be a better solution but I dont know, havent looked into it much
Ya, get a USB enclosure or convertor.
For power what I would do is just bring power from the trunk. You can use that same power for other things like powered USB hubs and the LCD. That is granted that your DC-DC PSU can meet the additional load. If it cant then you can pick up a new "point of load" PSU from Opus (labeled POL). As far as I can tell though this POL PSU only works for 5v so if you need 12v then its not your solution.
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Old 10-21-2005, 04:46 PM   #105
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I dont use DVD either, but was thinking for future when I see my car the next dude may want to be able to play CD audio and DVD. I guess it is a project for later then.

Not sure about the POL, does that require Opus? I am planning on getting the M1-ATX. Eitherway, $25 for 5v supply and it gets it's power from PSU? Wont it be better to directly supplythe 5v power to USB Hub from one of the car's ouput? This way it will be less load on the PSU right?
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