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Old 03-03-2006, 01:02 PM   #61
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Quote: Originally Posted by JasonWW
I'm not sure I remember this thread so well, but I'll jump in here.
You could wire in a NC momentary switch inline from the PSU trigger to the mobo. Just push the button when you crank the car and the signal will not get sent to the mobo. Would that fix your problem?

Not entirely. Theoretically, your suggestion would prevent the computer from booting when starting the car; however, when I turned the car off, it would boot up...sure, you could just press the button again, but I'd rather have this work without any intervention. Does that make sense?
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Old 03-03-2006, 01:37 PM   #62
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How would it turn on if the car is off? Maybe with your setup but with mine it waits for accessory to turn on. Also whats the big deal anyway it comes on you back your car out of the driveway or whatever and park again it prob almost gets done booting and then when you power off it hibernates again.
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Old 03-03-2006, 02:42 PM   #63
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does this work with hibernate?
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Old 03-03-2006, 02:52 PM   #64
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Quote: Originally Posted by mbkowns
How would it turn on if the car is off? Maybe with your setup but with mine it waits for accessory to turn on. Also whats the big deal anyway it comes on you back your car out of the driveway or whatever and park again it prob almost gets done booting and then when you power off it hibernates again.

Well, the M1-ATX just sends a signal to the mobo on/off. It doesn't actually know the status of the ignition, just knows that there is a change. So if you skip the "on" signal with the method described above, turning the ignition "off" will send another signal to the mobo on/off- now, since the pc was off, this will trigger it to turn on. The hardoff delay on my PSU will cutoff 45 seconds later, in effect yanking power from the pc = verrrry bad
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Old 03-03-2006, 02:57 PM   #65
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I see what your saying that would be bad. But if you had the switch disabling the accesory wire it wouldn't turn on when you turn the car on. Just leave the switch how it is until your ready to turn the car on again. If your worried about how the m1 controlls it with the accessory wire then just wire the switch up to your PW-SW on your motherboard.... A switch is really all you need.
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Old 03-03-2006, 02:58 PM   #66
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Quote: Originally Posted by GreenBeast
does this work with hibernate?


It certainly will works perfect!

Hibernate starts where you left off last time so when the hibernate file is loaded and your in windows its up and going!
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Old 03-03-2006, 04:14 PM   #67
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excellent, just what i wanted to hear
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Old 03-04-2006, 12:32 AM   #68
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im having some trubble with the trasistor..

i got the black plastic half circle type not the metal can, its still a 2n222a but..
i cant get it to work

if i hook it up the way explained in the early post i get 4.5 v out the emitter
with 12V in the collector and the serial port in the base which puts out 5-6v

should there be this much of a voltage drop?

EDIT: this is the pins i used

Last edited by djmickyg : 08-08-2006 at 01:11 AM.
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Old 03-04-2006, 07:49 AM   #69
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Hopefully someone can help with your traNsistor, but I don't remember much about them. Sorry.

I would have gone old school and just used an automotive relay. The 2 circuits stay seperated that way and your sure to get 12v to the amp.
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Old 03-04-2006, 09:15 AM   #70
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Quote: Originally Posted by djmickyg
im having some trubble with the trasistor..

i got the black plastic half circle type not the metal can, its still a 2n222a but..
i cant get it to work

if i hook it up the way explained in the early post i get 4.5 v out the emitter
with 12V in the collector and the serial port in the base which puts out 5-6v

should there be this much of a voltage drop?

EDIT: this is the pins i used

Emitter is always a diode drop lower than the base when using a transistor in emitter-follower configuration like this. However, most serial ports swing -12v to +12v. It sounds like your serial port doesn't quite manage this, so you don't get the full voltage from the emitter follower. You'll be needing a better transistor circuit design. I'm thinking PNP open collector and flip the DTR line.
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Old 03-04-2006, 07:02 PM   #71
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Quote: Originally Posted by Rob Withey
I'm thinking PNP open collector and flip the DTR line.

what does it mean by flipping the dtr line?
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Old 03-04-2006, 07:16 PM   #72
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can i use my 12v ignition wire as the base and then seral port at the collector..
if u say the emitter is a diode drop lower than the baese then it should come out as 11.5v?
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Old 03-04-2006, 07:32 PM   #73
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i wasnt looking for a solution as i havnt installed my carpc yet but saw this and tried it. seems to work very well thankyou. Also works with hibernation no problem. i wired it straight off the pin to amp that requires a 12v remote on.
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Old 03-05-2006, 04:28 AM   #74
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Quote: Originally Posted by djmickyg
what does it mean by flipping the dtr line?

I meant inverting.
Quote: Originally Posted by djmickyg
can i use my 12v ignition wire as the base and then seral port at the collector..
if u say the emitter is a diode drop lower than the baese then it should come out as 11.5v?

Nope. Go read how transistors work, you want your control signal at the base, that is what it is for.
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Old 03-13-2006, 01:41 PM   #75
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Wow, this worked great for me - I'm using a usb-serial converter, with the DTR wire triggering my amp. Finally I have a way to power the amp without EVER hearing thump - standby, hibernate, full-shutdown. Thanks a lot DaTeach!
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