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03-13-2006, 11:20 PM
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#76
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FLAC
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Vehicle: 2006 Ford XR6 Turbo Ute
Posts: 1,278
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Quote: Originally Posted by Hark
Wow, this worked great for me - I'm using a usb-serial converter, with the DTR wire triggering my amp. Finally I have a way to power the amp without EVER hearing thump - standby, hibernate, full-shutdown. Thanks a lot DaTeach!
did u connect it straight to the amp from pin 4??
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03-14-2006, 01:23 AM
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#77
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FLAC
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: SOCAL
Vehicle: 2005 Ford Mustang GT
Posts: 1,138
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I can say I hooked up the serial cable right up to the amp remote line and it works. I have changed it though and I have it now so it goes through a relay. That if the the Accessory is on then it jumps the relay to enable DTR from the serial port to go to the amps but if the accessory is off it cuts that.
DTR will ditch the startup speaker pop by itself but I was also having a turn off speaker pop so that fixed that and its perfect now.
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03-14-2006, 01:28 AM
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#78
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FLAC
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Vehicle: 2006 Ford XR6 Turbo Ute
Posts: 1,278
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dam why wouldnt it work for me directly in
i was only geting 6V out the dtr line.. grr
doesnt mater i dont have the car anymore so nowhere to put the pc
Last edited by djmickyg : 03-14-2006 at 01:37 AM.
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03-14-2006, 01:55 AM
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#79
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FLAC
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: SOCAL
Vehicle: 2005 Ford Mustang GT
Posts: 1,138
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Some amps can't handle the lower voltage maybe yours had a problem or maybe you shorted it slightly. Your problem would of been easily fixed with a relay that was triggered by the DTR and kicked on 12v from the accessory to the amp.
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03-24-2006, 01:53 PM
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#80
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Low Bitrate
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 109
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Testing DTR circuit...is this correct?
I'm testing this on my laptop to make sure it works before I tear into my car stereo wiring. Can somebody confirm that how I'm testing it and what I'm seeing in my testing is correct?
I installed the AmpCtrl.exe service and configured it to work on port 3...my USB port. I plugged this USB-Serial converter into my USB port. When I turn on the computer, I connect my multimeter to pins 4 and 5 of the male-terminated serial cable like this:
The multimeter shows a constant 9.06V. Just before the Windows boot screen appears, it swings between -1V and -4V for a second or two...then back to a constant 9.06V. Is this about what I should expect?
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03-24-2006, 04:38 PM
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#81
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 124
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well mine gave me -11.98 before the service started then 11.98 when it turned on but thats on my atx mobo and it turns my amp on perfectly connected directly to pin 4 so i think only way your gonna tell is if you hook your amp up and see if it turns it on. may be a problem if your just getting 9 and ur amp needs 12v remote on?
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03-25-2006, 04:31 PM
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#82
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA USA
Vehicle: 2000 BMW 328Ci (E46)
Posts: 440
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I thought you were supposed to use pins 4 & 7 when measuring voltage - maybe it doesn't matter if it's 7 or 5? I got 12V on my Thinkpad T30.
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03-26-2006, 05:58 PM
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#83
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Silver Spring/MD
Vehicle: 05/Nissan/Altima
Posts: 197
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Most power supply I have seen here have a RMT pin, which is used for powering the amp. Wouldn't it be better and just easier to hook it up to that pin?
__________________
Just Starting my project
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03-26-2006, 06:05 PM
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#84
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Low Bitrate
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 109
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Quote: Originally Posted by checksum
Most power supply I have seen here have a RMT pin, which is used for powering the amp. Wouldn't it be better and just easier to hook it up to that pin?
Some installs have electrical noise or thumps while powering up the computer. Using the remote turn-on lead of the PSU powers up the amp when the ignition is turned giving this noise a chance to be heard. Turning on the amp after Windows has started will eliminate this noise. There are other ways to turn on the amp later in the power-up cycle like using a delay switch. Personally, if DTR works like I expect, I prefer it over a delay switch because it will be more precise about turning on the amp at the right time after Windows is booted.
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09-23-2006, 12:04 AM
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#85
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Irvine, Cal
Vehicle: 1994 Honda Accord LX
Posts: 172
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does anyone have a update on this program? Or is it done with
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09-23-2006, 10:51 AM
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#86
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FLAC
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: SOCAL
Vehicle: 2005 Ford Mustang GT
Posts: 1,138
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no need for a update it runs like it should if you can't download it from the links check my car thread i have a link there.
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11-13-2006, 10:44 PM
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#87
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Banned
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 304
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Can someone please post up the DB9 pinout including each wire color and its corresponding pins?
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11-14-2006, 02:35 PM
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#88
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Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 3
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I was thinking I would just write some code to turn the volume down, kind of like a good home stereo will do when it's powered off. That way if I get out of the car with the vol up high, when I go to leave for work at 6am I don't wake everyone up 
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11-21-2006, 10:45 AM
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#89
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Irvine, Cal
Vehicle: 1994 Honda Accord LX
Posts: 172
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Quote: Originally Posted by mplex2000 
I was thinking I would just write some code to turn the volume down, kind of like a good home stereo will do when it's powered off. That way if I get out of the car with the vol up high, when I go to leave for work at 6am I don't wake everyone up 
confused
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11-21-2006, 06:53 PM
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#90
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Banned
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 304
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Go with the DTR method, works perfect.
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