USB Syncroized 5V@8A power supply POL. Now Taking Orders!!! - Page 7

Beehphy · 06-02-2008, 04:10 PM

Latest project update:

I have built and partially tested the new revision of the ACPPSv1.

Better, stronger, faster… but surprisingly not bigger.

Rev 1.03 is now rated at 10A output! (previous revisions were 7.5A). The output is steadier and quieter. The operating temperature range has been extended to -40c to 65c (-40 to 85c for less then 5A output).

I may be making another production run in the near future. Contact me if you are interested.

Beehphy · 07-11-2008, 05:24 PM

Bump!

FYI,
Parts and PCB's have been ordered to construct 15 units. It will still be a few weeks before they are ready to ship.

Thank you everyone for your patience.
Jesse

FockMasterDan · 07-11-2008, 05:40 PM

The V2 sounds very interesting for me, as I'm looking to get regulated 12 as well as 5. You mentioned increasing the efficiency of the V2, and by that do you mean it will decrease input or increase output? I'm just not sure if it would have enough juice to be everything that I want, but it sounds like it would be plenty.

My issue is because I'm building a laptop based setup, I don't have a nice PS to run extra hardware off of.

Beehphy · 07-12-2008, 12:26 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by FockMasterDan

The V2 sounds very interesting for me, as I'm looking to get regulated 12 as well as 5. You mentioned increasing the efficiency of the V2, and by that do you mean it will decrease input or increase output? I'm just not sure if it would have enough juice to be everything that I want, but it sounds like it would be plenty.

My issue is because I'm building a laptop based setup, I don't have a nice PS to run extra hardware off of.

My big thing with efficiency is because of heat. I have designed a ~50W power supply with no fan. Without active cooling the PS needs to transfer that heat away by natural means. Unfortunately natural convection only moves so much heat. If you create more heat than can be pulled away, eventually the magic smoke makes its way out.

The ACPPSv1 has ~93% efficiency, meaning 93% of the power entering the PS is leaving through the output as electricity, the other 7% is being wasted. Some of it is coming out as light from the LED, but primarily the waste is comming out as heat. So, when the ACPPS is opperating at 50W, 3.5W is turning to heat and needs to be removed.

With the ACPPSv2 opperating at 85% efficiency and outputing 50W, there is 15% or 7.5W of heat being generated. Unfortunately 7.5W is edging on too much heat to be pulled away by natural convection. And if I can't find a way to get it over 90% I'll have to find a way to cool it.

So to answer your question, with v2 I'm looking to reduce the input required for the same output and at the same time reduce the heat generated at full output.

The ACPPSv2 will be a 50W power supply, just like v1, but that power will be split between the two outputs. 25W to the 5V output and 25W to the 12/18/19V output.

Power = Volts x Amps
Output 1: 25W = 5V x 5A
Output 2: 25W = 12V x 2.08A or 18V x 1.39A or 19V x 1.32A

So, figure out what components your system will include (GPS, OBD2, CD-r, Audigy etc.) and add up all the power requirments to find out if my supply will suit your purpose. If you have any problems doing that contact me. It would be a great tutorial to add to this thread.

fredsub · 07-12-2008, 09:23 PM

congrats on your successfull project,
i'm going to build my own tho, because I can.I need 15V@6Amp

can i ask what controller your using?

BTW, for the 5V, if you use a sychronous switcher seems you could get efficiency even higher, maybe 95% ?
12V would still need to be a separate buck/boost circuit tho.....

Beehphy · 07-13-2008, 11:02 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by fredsub

congrats on your successfull project,
i'm going to build my own tho, because I can.I need 15V@6Amp

can i ask what controller your using?

The controller I'm using for the v1 dosen't do buck boost, flyback, or SEPIC, like you'll need to get 15V. But its a TI sync buck. In the v2 i use an LM3488 in a sepic configuration. but that chip cant handle an output as bigs as your looking for.

I would look at national and TI (maybe Maxim/Dallas) for controller chips. they seem to have more bang for the buck.

Quote: Originally Posted by fredsub

BTW, for the 5V, if you use a sychronous switcher seems you could get efficiency even higher, maybe 95% ?
12V would still need to be a separate buck/boost circuit tho.....

r1.03 runs at 93.5%, while there are lights and relays in my circuit stealing power. That efficiency is for the entire unit, wires in to wires out. The 95-6% claimed by most controllers is for the switcher all by its self with no support circuitry.

I have gotten the design up to 94.5% (whole unit) in some tests with certain configurations. unfortunately the extra 1% of efficiency comes at a high cost. it added almost 10% to the cost of parts for each unit. I made a comprimise to keep the cost down.

You dont have a problem tuning for peak efficiency, a 1 off power supply does not have to be production friendly.

syberkowboy · 08-04-2008, 05:35 PM

Hey Beehphy is the aux output auto selected or is there some jumper inside. I'm putting a 12v LCD on the roof and want a regulated PS to keep it clean. I really like the unit and am hoping to be able to use if for: DVD drive in dash, hub, ?external HDD?, and maybe the LCD. Haven't done the wattage calcs yet but am still in the plan stages for my second carputer.

Beehphy · 08-11-2008, 01:18 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by syberkowboy

Hey Beehphy is the aux output auto selected or is there some jumper inside.

Sorry bud, You have a v1 which only has 5V regulated. The 12V output, is just the 12V input switched to that pin when the ACPPS is turned on. Any fluctuations of the cars power system will be present on that 12V output pin.

The Prototype ACPPSv2 has a jumper that selects the output voltage.

On to other topics.

The next run of ACPPSv1 r1.03 is almost ready to start shipping (See the stack of circuit boards below). There have been some improvements and refinments since the last run that make the current models better in many ways. The most recent improvement is the Finish on the case, It is now completely poweder coated, for improved durability.

I had to machine 200 end caps (seen in the pic) to make the best use of the $200 minimum order at the powder coater. It took me ~80 hours to machine all of the end caps, by hand on my minimill. I spun the handles of the mill aproximately 80,000 times over the two weeks while I was building them. I had to jimmy rig a power drill to help me with some of it (one particular step of machining took ~40,000 turns of the handle all by itself).

And after all that work, I've decided I'm upgrading my mill to NC/CNC control. It will cost ~$1200 to do all the upgrades I want, but It will be well worth it. The end caps will be more accurate and take less time to cut. But, beyond making production of ACPPS easier, the CNC mod will make all my projects more refined.

Also, this production run, the circuit boards have silk screens and solder masks. The previous run, the PCB's had exposed tinned copper traces. With a solder masked PCB it is more difficult for a piece of debris to short things together if it gets inside.

The new design (r1.03) still includes the expanded temperature range and smaller output ripple voltage as discussed in previous posts.

I should (hope) be sending out bills for the preorders later this week. If you are interested in purchasing an ACPPS, now is the time to make your reservation.
Jesse

PS. Sorry the pics are crap, they were taken with my phone.

Beehphy · 08-14-2008, 03:11 PM

ACPPSv1 is now for sale again.

There's a (new) good pics in the first thread and the manual has been updated.

swordfishunter · 09-16-2008, 11:47 AM

HI

I just recieved mine a couple of days ago.

Now i'm sitting here trying to find a solution for this, although I havn't even hooked it up yet to the car.

I'm trying to eliminate "amp pop" caused by my PCI soundcard.

Ok So, i'm using a DSATX. When "exactly" does this POL supply enable, during the bios, or when windows is loading enabling the USB- if i disable usb in the bios will It load during windows?

By using 12v accessory out I guess i can use this to trigger the amps with a delay accounting for startup time.

However when I kill my igition, the DSATX goes to countdown mode, and then to hibernate. In countdown mode everything is still on, including this POL.

At this point i don't think my amps are going to go off, and when i leave the car, music will still be blasting.... correct?

What i want to know is, are my assumptions correct? and what is the workaround towards this... if any

Beehphy · 09-16-2008, 12:27 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by swordfishunter

When "exactly" does this POL supply enable, during the bios, or when windows is loading enabling the USB- if i disable usb in the bios will It load during windows?

The ACPPS turns on when the computer powers the 5V for the USB ports, so most likely as soon as the computer powers on.

If you disable the USB ports they will not be available to windows to use.

Quote: Originally Posted by swordfishunter

By using 12v accessory out I guess i can use this to trigger the amps with a delay accounting for startup time.

Does the amp pop when the computer powers on or when the sound card is activated by the computer (drivers load)? Most likely its when the sound card first recieves power.

Making a guess, your amp should have a delay built into it, right? If the sound card causes the pop when it powers on, the amp startup delay might be enough.

In your current configuration the amps are enabled by the ignition, right? In that configuration the amps power on and are past thier delay when the computer powers on, after its start up delay. In that case the amp is outputting sound when the computer power turns on and the pop can make it through to the speakers.

If the amp is triggered by the 12 output of the ACPPS both will star at the same time. The sound card should make its pop, and the amp delay should cover that up. Since they both will recieve power at the same time the pop should happen before the amp is outputting any sound.

Quote: Originally Posted by swordfishunter

However when I kill my igition, the DSATX goes to countdown mode, and then to hibernate. In countdown mode everything is still on, including this POL.

At this point i don't think my amps are going to go off, and when i leave the car, music will still be blasting.... correct?

From what I understand about your system, yes.

Quote: Originally Posted by swordfishunter

What i want to know is, are my assumptions correct? and what is the workaround towards this... if any

A work around for that would be adding a Relay between the ACPPS and amp. Use the ignition accessory power to flip the relay, allowing the 12v ouput to be connected to the amp enable only when the ignition is on. In this way both computer power and ignition state have to be present for the amp to be on.

Here are the three states:
1. When the computer is off the amp enable signal would be missing and the amp turned off, reguardless of the ignition.
2. When the computer is on but the ignition is off the enable signal couldn't make it from the ACPPS to the amp because of the open relay.
3. When both are on the amp should be powered for normal opperation.

Hope this helps, please post again if you have any further questions. this is great stuff to have in the thread.
Jesse

swordfishunter · 09-17-2008, 03:40 PM

that sounded so doable i did mine today

it works,
kinda....

Actually im just being a little anal, but i'd be interested to see if anyone has a solution.

So now the amps come on after a 9 sec delay from the relay, when PC boots all is fine...no pop.

However when I turn off the car, and then start it again.. (acc off / then on) the DSATX is still in coundown mode and therefore hasn't powered off / hibernated yet, but i still have to wait 9 seconds for the amps to come on.

Anyone have any thoughts?

Beehphy · 09-17-2008, 06:07 PM

Sounds like you got what you were looking for in your pervioius post. No amp pop. No stereo while the key is out.

The delay your experiencing is the amp's delay. The relay clicks on from the key and sends the enabls signal to the amp, then the amp waits 9 seconds before allowing sound.

Unless you can find a way to anticipate when your going to turn your key on, by 9 seconds, you kind of stuck... or find a way to shorten the delay in the amp...

reggiek945 · 11-24-2008, 06:22 PM

Ok I'm sold. Could you tell me what unit I should purchase? I am currently running just one USB 4 port hub maybe going to another in the future. I wouldn't be using it for my monitor because I am using my OPUS 320W for that. Which model and how much? Thanks,

Reggie

Beehphy · 11-25-2008, 03:47 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by reggiek945

Which model and how much? Thanks,

Reggie

Currently only the ACPPSv1 is available for purchace, but it sounds like the unit you would need. It has a 5V, 8A output cabable of powering more than 15 USB devices and all the hubs to wire that up.

The first post in this thread has the most up to date information about specs, pricing, availability. Currently the ACPPSv1 sells for $80, with $10 for S/H (domestic), and an optional $10 for a USBi(solator).

You can order directly through my website (http://jopeldesigns.com or send an email to ACPPS at jopeldesigns.com with your order and Paypal E-mail addy so I can send a bill.

Thank you for your interest, hope to see your order soon.
-Jesse

P.S. I do offer free tech support to help my customers get the most out of my product.

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