USB Syncroized 5V@8A power supply POL. Now Taking Orders!!!
ACPPS Project Update Post
Continuously updated with current information.
Last update: 7/15/09
Update: I now take international and domestic orders from my website, jopeldesigns.com
ACPPS series power supply:
This line of power supplies turns on and off automatically, following the computer. The ACPPS does this by monitoring the power state of the computer through a USB cable or other power signal. By following the computer's power state, not the cars', your USB device drivers and device data is safe from unexpected disconnection.
There are several other features that set this design apart from other POL devices:
- Auxiliary unregulated 12V output that also follows the computer's power state.
- Multiple power and ground terminals allow "daisy chaining" multiple devices. This allows wiring to be cleaner and simpler.
- High switching frequency for clean audio applications. Operating at 300 kHz the switching noise far is beyond human hearing.
- Strong, durable and elegant chassis.
- Quick and easy screw terminals, installs similar to an car audio amplifier.
Before shipping, each unit is “stress” tested. Each unit is run at full power for 30 minutes to make sure it is functioning properly. Output voltage is checked at the beginning and end to check for drift and each unit is checked for excessive heat.
Each unit comes with a 120 day warranty. If your ACPPS is installed and fails during normal operation, you can send it in for a replacement/repair. Follow these 3 simple rules and I guarantee you wont have any problems with my product:
- Read and follow the installation instructions
- Remove the fuse while installing
- Connect the Ground lead last
ACCPSv1: Computer synchronized 5V @ 8A power supply. $80 + S/H. 10+ Available! Production run 3 is in progress. 25 are slated to be built as of 7/1/09.
July 08: I am in negotiations with the mp3car.com online store and they may be carrying my PSU in several months. I sent them an engineering sample of Rev1.03 so they can evaluate my device in one of the Mods' system.
Revisions with R1.03;
The minimum operating temperature was lowered to -40c, for those who live in Alaska and northern Canada. For the rest of us, these changes mean a slightly lower ripple current and faster transient response. As part of the revision I had to choose a different controller with a wider temperature range, and the new one does not have an error light. Instead the output will go dead and the power indicator light will flash when there is a problem.
The output voltage is much tighter, varying only 0.04V from no load to full load (0.8% variance). Output ripple is down to only 0.030V (30mVp-p) ripple at 8A output (0.6%). The efficiency is up as well, maintaining over 94% through most of the specified range.
ACCPSv2: Computer synchronized 5V @ 5A and 12, 18, or 19V regulated @ 25W.
Still under development. Not yet ready for sale.
I have improved this design to include a selectable secondary output. There will be the original 5V @ 5A and a newly updated 12, 18 or 19V @ 25W output. The 12V output was originally incorporated in the design for LCD monitors that require a regulated 12V source. Some LCD’s require an 18 or 19V source for the back light power. The new design has a jumper to select what the high output will be.
The second prototype is built and partially tested.
I am pleased with the results for the 12/18/19V output. Some component substitutions need to be made since several of the components are still running hotter than I like, but overall it is a big step forward for this project. The output ripple is a bit high (~120mV @ 25W) but might be acceptable for the application. Displays are less vulnerable to power line noise allowing for a little noisier power supply.
The 5V side of the circuit is going to require a little more attention. There seems to be an oscillation in the feedback circuit causing an excessive e ripple at the output. This might be fixable with some component substitutions, or it might require a more sophisticated controller to get the output ripple under control. More testing is required.
USBi USB Isolator. $10 In Stock, 10+ Available
The USBi separates the computer’s power from the USB power.
USB as a system was designed such that the computer sends power to the USB devices. It was not designed for the devices to send power to the computer. Some cheap USB hubs will allow power to travel in both directions, the USBi stops that from happening. It was developed in response to a customers' installation problems.
The standard wires are 24" in length, but can be special ordered with longer. I have tested the USBi using SiSoftware Sandra Lite XII.2008.SP1 and a USB thumb drive and there was no impact on USB data throughput.
Payment:
I prefer to use PayPal.
Current Pricing:
ACPPSv1: $80
USBi: $10
Shipping:
ACPPS orders:
Standard: 1:$10, 2:$15, 2-5:$20
International: 1:$20
USBi orders:
No extra charge if included with an ACPPS order.
Standard: 1-5:$4, 4-12:$10
International: 1-5:$12, 4-12:$20
Ordering information:
Please order directly from my website with secure checkout through PayPal.
While piecing together my Carputer I found a need for a 5V power supply to power my USB hubs. It needed to turn on and off with my computer (not ignition), supply plenty of power, look good and be easy to install. I thought it might also be nice to have a 12V supply that switched on with the 5V supply.
Basically, I'm developing a PV5 on steroids with a few extra features and an elegant chassis.
Here are some specs of my design:
Input range: ~8-25V
Topology: Voltage mode switching power supply (should be +80% efficient, haven’t tested yet)
Output Voltage 1: 5V +/- 2%,
Output current 1: 0-10A (stable with no load, and quick transient response)
Output voltage 2: Unregulated 12v
Output current 2: 0-5A
Other key features:
Switched 12V output @5A (input 12V supply routed out when supply is ON)
Power supply can be enabled by USB cable or 12V accessory
Easily accessible 15A ATC Fuse (standard automotive blade fuse)
~5" x 3.5" x 1.25"
Extruded aluminum chassis, painted black
5V power good LED
Fault indicator LED
USB-B connector for computer sync. (no dangling cable if not using USB)
Screw terminals for power connections (12sw, 12Vin, 12Vin, 12Ven, GND, GND, 5Vo, 5Vo, 5Vo)
Mounting tabs
Electricly floating chassis
Below is a picture of the chassis I'll be using. This is a picture of a different project but this one will look very similar. That gift card is credit card size, to give some size perspective.
Also you can see the cad of the PCB. if you only had a parts list you might be able to make your own .
Anyone interested in buying one of these?
Do you have a comment on how it could be improved?
Are you interested and waiting for it to be built and tested?
Would you like to see a kit?
Please, any comments of feedback would be greatly appreciated.
I'm planning a small production run for starters. The cost should be $90, plus shipping. Lead time is about 4weeks from now. I finished the design today and begin ordering shortly.
You can PM me, email, or ask questions in this thread.
carpower_at_jopeldesigns.com
Thanks, Jesse
5/25: Well I got the circuit boards last night. I used Express PCB to design and layout the board. Its a great company and they produce a great product(as can be seen in the pic). $59 to have 3 quality circuit boards made. I've used thier services before and will again.
Shipment tracking tells me that my parts from Digikey will be waiting for me when i get home from work. hopefully I have time to construct it and start testing this weekend.
5/28: I built the circuit a few nights ago. I haven't had a chance to test yet because I was distracted with more pressing matters. I was installing the newly rebuilt motor in to my 98 Passat. I've tossed in a pic of that just for kicks. 25 miles and no problems yet. (fingers crossed)
Anyways, I'll get to testing in just a few days. Now that I've got my shop back.
5/29: I went and bought some high power load resistors last night for testing the supply. I should be able to run at max current for an indefinant period of time without overheating the load.
6/7 I had my prototype built, and was testing output ripple at different loading and accidently touched one of the high power traces to a sensitive current monitoring pin on the controller, and fried it. So I need to build another, or replace the controller before testing can continue.
I have found a few layout traces I wanted to relocate/modify and I want to test multiple inductors to figure out which one allows the highest efficiency.
In short there's a little more development time before I release an actual product. I want it to be reliable and accurate and efficient. And I'm sure you do to.
Out of Curiosity, How many hubs are you designing this to support? Are you saying the the usb port that you have to it would allow for the powering up with the PC?
...and since no one else has said so, great idea I hope it comes out well.
i dunno why i didnt see this before but it looks good... what is the purpose of the usb though? you would run the cable to your hubs from the female port on your unit?
What other benefits does this unit have over the opus POL and the carnetix 5v on the mp3car store.
__________________
03 Acura RSX Coupe
Developer of: RRFusion, MovieTimes.NET, (new)RRMail, RRShoutcast, & RRVehicle Maintenance
Currently working on: RRVehicle Maintenance
i dunno why i didnt see this before but it looks good... what is the purpose of the usb though? you would run the cable to your hubs from the female port on your unit?
What other benefits does this unit have over the opus POL and the carnetix 5v on the mp3car store.
Out of Curiosity, How many hubs are you designing this to support? Are you saying the the usb port that you have to it would allow for the powering up with the PC?
...and since no one else has said so, great idea I hope it comes out well.
This can provide up to 10A of current. The spec says each USB hub can draw up to 2A. but this can provide power ot other USB devises that run on 5V. Say you have an external DVD drive that requires a seperate 5V source, this can power both
My system is designed with 3 USB hubs. One has many perminent accy's (GPS, sound, camera, etc.) that lives in the trunk. there's one at the front for the touchpad, keybd, bluetooth, and a second is dasey chained and mounted near the dash for any random thing i want to plug in, flash, HDD etc.
The USB port on my device is the trigger (enable) for the power supply. the Tx and Rx lines are left floating since there is no comm with the computer. the 5V is a very low current draw (0.1mA) to enable the power supply. the computer doesn't even know it has been pluged in.
When the 5V rail powers up in the computer and is supplied to the USB ports, my power supply detects that and powers on. when the 5V rail powers down in the computer it detects that too and also powers down. It is completely sync'd with the computer in that opperating mode.
It also has the option of being triggered by the ingition accy. line. a 12V signal source can be applied to turn the power supply on, just like an amp. This is less desirable for computer applications but it was a simple option to add.
I guess it could be sync'd to the computer if you brought the 12 supply out of the computer, but thats not as simple.
Quote: Originally Posted by Sonicxtacy02
i dunno why i didnt see this before but it looks good... what is the purpose of the usb though? you would run the cable to your hubs from the female port on your unit?.
The USB on my device is purely to sample when the computers power supply is on.
The USB hubs are powered from the 5V outputs on the edge connector. There are 3 outputs (screw terminals) that can be fanned out further. A power cable is screwed into the edge connector and run to the USB power input, usualy through a barrel connector. if your USB hub came with an wall power supply, that cord and plug could salvaged and used. the other option is to build a power cable. This connection method allows any 5V device to be powered in a similar manner.
Quote: Originally Posted by Sonicxtacy02
What other benefits does this unit have over the opus POL and the carnetix 5v on the mp3car store.
They are very similar is function, but my device has a leg up in several area's.
A) Mine has a smart looking chassis that can be mounted very similar to an amp. Both those other converters have to be installed in something else to be protected. or a case has to be made just for them.
B) they are 15W devices where mine is 50W. your system complexity could be reduced using a single higher power device.
C) Mine has a 12V (@5A) switched output that is also sync's with the computer.. this could be used to power a backlight power supply, turn on amps, etc.
D)Seems like one of them has to work in conjuction with a specific DC-DC computer power supply, where as mine is completely universal. it could be connected to a Voom, laptop, even a mac.
E)I don't know what the idle current (off state) of the others are, but mine is on the order of a micro (10^-6) amp. when it is off, it's off. the on-board relay completely disconnects the 12 source to the power supply. The only circuit still hooked up is a little mosfet thats switches the relay. the manufacturer spec sheet says the leakage current is 1uA(@20V), max for the device. at 12V it is probably much less.
F) I'm unsure what the switching frequency of the other are but that is a major consideration. Switching power supplies make noise, and have noise at thier output, period. My unit has a 300kHz switching frequency which put its' noise way out of audible range. A USB sound card should sound good powered with mine.
it does.. i want one! Rigth now i've got one opus POL and 2 carnetix lol Could surely appreciate one device to manage it all PLUS turn off when the computers off.
__________________
03 Acura RSX Coupe
Developer of: RRFusion, MovieTimes.NET, (new)RRMail, RRShoutcast, & RRVehicle Maintenance
Currently working on: RRVehicle Maintenance
it does.. i want one! Rigth now i've got one opus POL and 2 carnetix lol Could surely appreciate one device to manage it all PLUS turn off when the computers off.
,since I've constructed mine, I've made a few minor tweaks to the circuit and board. I have two extra PCB's to make ones identical to mine but I'd perfer to make a run of 10 with the updated layout and parts.
Once I have 5 (paid) orders I'll buy all the parts nessesary to build 10.
I'll have to work on getting a money card from paypal so i can actually use money transfered by using it. then everyone can pay through paypal, protection for buyers and myself.
ok, so in one of my installs I have used a 5v relay to trip a spare opus power supply from my usb, what will your's do different than that? I mean any power supply can be tripped by usb? am I missing something here other than maybe the use of relays vs solid state?
__________________ MY NEWEST INSTALL:modded infiniti fx with big screen - "If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving....................."
ok, so in one of my installs I have used a 5v relay to trip a spare opus power supply from my usb, what will your's do different than that? I mean any power supply can be tripped by usb? am I missing something here other than maybe the use of relays vs solid state?
thats basically the idea. but its not a ratsnest of wires stuffed in a radio shack project box. Its a small self contained supply capable of supplying more power than I need.
With the OPUS you can only power 1 USB hub for sure. each hub may take up to 2A, so 3A only guarantees 1 works for sure. And I'm not sure if you can connect OPUS in parallel. minor variations betwwen supplies can cause one supply to take the majority of the load and possibly fail by over loading.
Now you could definately keep track of all the power consumption of each device and maximize the OPUS to it fullest capability, but that leaves room for error and mistakes. Say one day your trouble shooting a hardware problem and you accedentally plug in another load to a maxed out OPUS and it blows. now you have 2 problems.
I guess it all boils down to convienience, simplicity and elegance. I could have bought 3 opus, and several relays wired it all up in a box, but it would have cost more, taken up more space, and been more complicated and difficult to install. this answer made more sense to me. my car allready has enough wires and difficult connections, I wanted a commercial quality device that was more than enough to serve my purpose.
This looks very promising and I will likely sign up if the price is reasonable. What is the cost, assuming that will cover the cost of the parts and your labor/time?
I have a cobbled together power system with a relay, fuse box, and a hacked-up Kensington 120W power supply that is providing the 19V power for my laptop and the 5V power I need for my Sound Blaster NX and USB ports. However, my USB is underpowered and I cannot add any more to it or get more power out of the Kensington adaptor, so no external DVD or harddrive for me yet...
Price should be $90 thats parts and labor ($15hr) without development time included. I should be able to ship one in a 1-1.5 months. there's some more prototype tweaking before its ready.
Keep checking back on this thread, I'll be posting progress updates in the third post.
USB Syncroized 5V@8A power supply POL. Now Taking Orders!!!
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