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Old 10-16-2008, 02:03 AM   #1
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CB control.

It was mentioned in this thread that it is possible to control a CB with your carputer.

Does this require much or any soldering? I am a new electrical engineering student, so I am up to it if required. What all would need to be done to interface a CB with your carputer? Could I take the software and somehow integrate it into Road Runner?
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Old 08-16-2009, 12:01 PM   #2
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i would be interested if anyone can do this i have a cb radio in my car with a carputer aswell,can u recommend any decent aerials for my cb that arnt longer than 50cm as i want to install it permanently on my car roof and cant have a massive aerial ont he car.thanks ?
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Old 08-16-2009, 03:42 PM   #3
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What kind of car do you have?
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Old 08-17-2009, 04:37 PM   #4
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Quote: Originally Posted by stonestatue View Post
What kind of car do you have?

seat leon mk2. alot of custom made stuff inside and outside its one of a kind. how about you ?
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Old 08-17-2009, 07:22 PM   #5
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Old 08-19-2009, 10:37 PM   #6
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Quote: Originally Posted by ellislake View Post
can u recommend any decent aerials for my cb that arnt longer than 50cm as i want to install it permanently on my car roof and cant have a massive aerial ont he car.thanks ?

Short answer: no, if you want decent CB performance on a car you're going to be running a 54" antenna.

Long answer: Go read: http://www.signalengineering.com/ult..._antennas.html

I have a 54 incher from K40 mounted on the trunk lip of my 325i. I just moved webhosts and unfortunately seem to have managed to lose the only good picture I have of it with the antenna installed. Just get a good large magnetic base or a quick-disconnect lip mount and you can take it off when you don't need it. Be sure to get a LARGE base if you go magnetic, even with a 5 inch base mine tipped over dozens of times if the wind + my speed exceeded about 90 MPH. This meant that on windy days I'd sometimes lose it before even reaching the speed limit, much less when exceeding it. The lip mount has held strong for numerous trips up to the limiter.
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Last edited by wolrah; 08-19-2009 at 10:39 PM.
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Old 08-20-2009, 02:56 PM   #7
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Quote: Originally Posted by wolrah View Post
Short answer: no, if you want decent CB performance on a car you're going to be running a 54" antenna.

Long answer: Go read: http://www.signalengineering.com/ult..._antennas.html

I have a 54 incher from K40 mounted on the trunk lip of my 325i. I just moved webhosts and unfortunately seem to have managed to lose the only good picture I have of it with the antenna installed. Just get a good large magnetic base or a quick-disconnect lip mount and you can take it off when you don't need it. Be sure to get a LARGE base if you go magnetic, even with a 5 inch base mine tipped over dozens of times if the wind + my speed exceeded about 90 MPH. This meant that on windy days I'd sometimes lose it before even reaching the speed limit, much less when exceeding it. The lip mount has held strong for numerous trips up to the limiter.


what about along one that i can mag mount on the front of my roof and then tie the end down at the rear of my roof so its a bow shaped one.will that give good performance,i dont need it to be very good quality as i only use t with my mates on teh highway etc but at the moment we can get half a mile distance on them line of sight so we want them to last 2 miles line of sight approx.what do you think
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Old 08-20-2009, 04:31 PM   #8
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and i thought i was the only 1 still left with a CB lol.....

i run a Uniden 2830 converted down for 27 meg,s , and i run (can't remeber the name)
a arial used for 2 metre radio's . long base and telescopic whip, the base is about 1ft long coiled, and another 2 - 3 ft whip. in the truck i also have a 500 watt linear .

i agree CB = carputer ctrl would be nice,, i use to use RTTY back in the late 80's
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Old 08-20-2009, 08:36 PM   #9
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I'd love carPC control. I'm running a Cobra 29 and it really looks out of place under my dash:


(note: this was minutes after finishing the install, wires have been cleaned up since)

I'd love to be able to stash everything away, route the speaker connection to the main speakers, and hid the mic under the seat.
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