1997 Ford Taurus LX Install, follow along kiddies... - Page 4

monkeyracer · 07-29-2007, 04:36 PM

here's the finished pics of the homelink panel:

I used a thin piece of plywood, cut to shape, then put the homelink module in a cut out on the wood. Then I wrapped the piece with cloth, applied resin, then a layer of fiberglass mat. Then sand, bondo, sand, bondo, etc, until it was smooth. Then, I applied industrial strength velcro brand fastener (hook side) to the wood to hold it to the headliner. Lastly, I wrapped the unit in vinyl that matches the grain and color of my dash.

Waiting on the transmission to be fixed, I was considering getting rid of the vehicle after it was done, but with a new (rebuilt) trans, It will last a while longer, so work will continue on the computer.

monkeyracer · 07-30-2007, 02:19 AM

Ok, quickly made a panel to mount the power connections, here's the plan (again):

Here's the real one:

How I did it:
I took a piece of ABS plastic and cut it to size, then cut out the holes for the terminals with a speed saw. Then drill and tapped holes for the screws, and mounted it up. This will connect to the PSU when I get it all in. I may not use all four of the bottom row, and the top row will be connected with banana plugs (power and ground)

Also, since I had it all open, I added two small (40mm) fans to the case above the i/o ports that blows air out of the case from right in front of the processor fan.

Here's the pic of that:

I am going to wire these to an ATX hard drive power connector, and run it off the power supply, since they are 2 pin, and the mobo accepts 3 pin fans. The old ATX case had a fan that connected this way, so I'll be using those wires.

ViperTX · 08-06-2007, 02:41 PM

Hey M.R.
I have been reading through your post; aka journal - very detailed stuff. Thanks for the info - I do have one question. It appears (other than the exterior color) your '97 Taurus LX is identical to mine including the center console - yeah I have the FOLD OUT hidden cup holder that you mentioned in your quote.

Have you had any experience taking the console out or more specifically repairing that fold out cup holder? Mine is currently broken and Ford wants $90.00 for a replacement mechanism.

Thanks for any help and good luck on the TRAINY issue.

Viper

monkeyracer · 08-06-2007, 05:52 PM

I am planning on fabricating a new cupholder out of ABS plastic, but I'm having some issues with it. There is an alternate cupholder that doesn't fold out that originally came out of the SHO's that may show up on ebay. There are plenty of the fold out ones on ebay, but of course buyer beware...

The console is pretty easy to take apart. Open the lid, slide a flat blade screwdriver under the edge of the top part of the cup holder piece. Then pull up, and open the holder about half way, and the whole piece should just pop out.

Are you planning on installing a computer in your car? I'd love to see what someone else is doing to their Taurus.

UPDATE: Transmission issues:
Just got it back from the shop, and the trans works just fine, the alignment is off though, so I will have to bring it back on my next day off which isn't for a week...

monkeyracer · 08-09-2007, 11:56 PM

a few more updates:
The homelink panel pod has started to separate around the edges because the glue doesn't stand up to heat that well... I think the best way to get around this is to stitch the vinyl to the velcro, It makes more sense when I get pics up...

The cup holder fab process is still going, but slowly, got the buck out, and now I am just building thickness around the piece so that it's solid. I intentionally left it a little thin so that it would still be a little flexible so that it would come out of the mold. I didn't really take pics of this process since the abs sludge is volatile, and as usual I was eager to get it done.

Basically, I took two cups from Baja Fresh (used to work next to them, and they gave discounts on soda...) and cut one near the bottom, and taped it up with a few layers of tape to make it solid. Then, I placed the second cup in the center and filled the gap with the sludge. The second cup started to float in the abs rather than it filling that gap, so I weighed it down to keep it in place. Then after a few days I took it out of the first cup and let the rest of the MEK evaporate. Then, a few more days to make sure it was cured, I took it off the inside mold and am now waiting for the filling layers to dry. When it's all done, I want the thickness to be about 1/8" or so... Then I am going to take a similar cupholder from a junked taurus, and fabricate the cupholder into it.

The subs sound awesome, and I have a video of them in action:

I placed my camera on its tripod on my armrest console and pressed record. I didn't touch it the entire time, and this is just to show how much it shakes the car. I haven't gotten the dB test done yet, but I am estimating at least 130dB. All I hear when I demo them to my friend's is how clean it is, there's no unwanted vibration now... And this is before the sound deadener...

More to come soon.

monkeyracer · 08-11-2007, 08:56 PM

Last night, I looked at the amp and decided it was time to get the mounting board made to get it looking clean, here's what came out after about 30 mins of good hard work:

EagleTG · 08-12-2007, 12:54 AM

Looks really nice so far!!! Keep up the great work!

monkeyracer · 08-12-2007, 01:54 PM

Thanks eagle, I'm having fun with the whole process.

By the end of the year I plan to put the four channel amp in, and I will just make a new baffle to mount the two on. They are both the exact same size, so there will be symmetry there, which I think is key to a great install.

monkeyracer · 08-14-2007, 10:41 PM

So, i got to thinking, since it won't be long until I get my screen, i wondered where I will put all the components in the dash, and how it will all look when done, so I made a quick photochop of the concept:

So, the screen will be the main placement landmark, then the Pioneer cd deck below it, and the dvd/cdrw drive below that, with the HVAC controls on the bottom. The sierra aircard to the left of the screen, and the whole piece will be made out of ABS or I might take after biggy's lead and make it out of fiberglass. I want one piece though, rather than two or three glued together.

If I do it out of abs, all the pieces will bond together, but it may be harder to get the finish I want out of it. If I do Fiberglass, then I will just cut the holes for mounting everything. It's still a ways a way, but this helps at least visualize the next step...

Any suggestions?

monkeyracer · 08-15-2007, 10:08 AM

I decided to scratch building my own cup holders, the theory works, but in practicality it's a lot harder than I thought it would be. I tried to use ABS sludge, and for the most part it worked, but there are a lot of weak areas where it went on thin. It would have taken me a REALLY REALLY long time to finish these. So instead, I went and found some cupholders that are designed to go in boats and poker table inserts. Amazon.com had them, for $2.49 a piece plus shipping. here's what I ordered:

So with these I will try and mold these into the existing cup holder spots after all the old stuff comes out. Hopefully this will go a lot smoother than starting from scratch.

I may try and make some out of fiberglass, but that would more be for practice than anything.

monkeyracer · 08-16-2007, 07:38 PM

i just won the bid for the Dynamix 816 screen on ebay, from dynamix themselves, for around 66% of retail price! As soon as it comes, I will post a thorough review with plenty of pics of opening it.

I can't freaking wait!

2k1Toaster · 08-16-2007, 11:52 PM

congrats!

Pics are always fun!

monkeyracer · 08-25-2007, 12:33 PM

OK, screen is coming soon, and now I am planning out how to implement the dash layout. here's some interesting things to know:

DIN Radio opening: 178 mm x 53 mm
Double DIN: 178 mm x 106 mm

Dynamix 816 Dimensions:
Total unit: 194 mm x 130 mm
Without bezel: 189 mm x 120 mm
Viewable area: 178 mm x 108 mm

So, the viewable area for the screen is 2 mm taller than a standard double din opening, meaning this is a perfect screen for those here with a Double Din radio area. (2 mm is negligible for the fab, if you have a spacer between the dins this will be plenty, if you don't, then it can be either hidden or taken out of the top or bottom.)

For my dash fab, I will be making everything custom, so it wouldn't matter the size of it, but I may use a metra double din universal kit for a little easier fab.

The screen is on its way, and I think I may stop by the audio shop today to pick up the metra kit, and maybe some ABS sheet (may order off net if they don't have what I want.)

monkeyracer · 08-25-2007, 06:06 PM

I went and picked up the Metra 95-5812 double din kit for the late model fords like the five hundred, etc.

I think I will easily be able to mount this to the dash piece I'll be making. And it provides a nice finished look easily.

The screen without bezel is about 6 mm bigger than the cut out (viewable area)on each side, and the kit has a nice lip that's about this size or more, so it should fit very nicely. (And, now I have the original bezel intact in case I have warranty issues.)

I can't wait for the screen now. It will be like Christmas morning when the UPS guy comes.

monkeyracer · 08-25-2007, 11:36 PM

ok, back to the drawing board. that kit did not work. it's designed to go in front of a double din screen, rather than have a ddin hu slide into it.

the search continues...

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