Scion xB '06, in-dash Atom 330, Lilliput 889GL; details, pictures, links. Index: pg 1 - Page 10

rdholtz · 06-18-2008, 01:56 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by dasaint80

I believe it's polethylene. modified it. Bondo and fiberglass. I got it wrapped with the same green suede I'll take pic later today

I've found the trouble with polyethylene is that almost nothing sticks to it, including bondo and fiberglass, so those add-ons tend to crack. Wrapping your bezel with suede seems like an excellent idea, because the cracking won't show under the suede.

I'll be doing mine with plastic welding and reinforcing it with stainless steel mesh to eliminate cracking. But mine's not a show car -- it's my daily driver.

rdholtz · 06-19-2008, 07:42 AM

Flexibility

Okay, it's all assembled, and I got what I wanted in this version: a lot of positioning flexibility. Here are some shots that show the potential range of travel in this mount system:

Head unit all the way up and all the way forward, DVD all the way up and all the way back

Head unit same as previous shot, but DVD all the way down and all the way forward

Head unit all the way down and tilted back, DVD all the way down and same depth as head unit

Head unit all the way down and tilted forward, DVD same as above
Click images to enlarge.

The range of motion of the head unit is about 3/8" up and down, and 3/8" forward and back. The DVD unit can move down flush with the head unit or as much as 3/8" away from it, and an inch or so forward and backward relative to the head unit. That range covers anything I can think of doing in the installation, and probably leaves me with options I haven't even thought of yet.

This works just fine for a prototype. Now it's time to figure out the things I want to change, do a test fit, and see if any changes call for re-prototyping. Then I can get the final unit built.

rdholtz · 06-21-2008, 04:03 PM

Scratch That DVD Bracket

The more I think about the DVD mounting system, the more I think the DVD bracket is a waste of time. The mount -- the part that arches over the head unit -- is the crucial part, and the extensive work to make the bracket is just extra and pretty much unnecessary effort. I'll use Velcro to hold the DVD unit down and provide depth positioning, because it's so easy that it just makes sense.

I'll still use the small angles on the sides that keep the DVD unit aligned. They're fast and easy to make and attach. But the bracket goes away. The angles could be the type of preformed aluminum angle that I used on the prototype, or they could be angles bent from scrap sheet metal; either material is simple, easy, and effective, and the sheet metal lowers the cost of materials. I'll use machine screws to hold the angles in, but a production version would probably use pop rivets.

For the least amount of effort, Velcro alone would certainly be acceptable; several versions of hook-and-loop material are available in hardware and home stores. A heavy-grade double-side tape -- like carpet tape or floormat "Grip Strips" -- might even be sufficient, although I'm not sure how it would hold up over time in the elevated temperatures inside the dash, so I think the wise path is to use Velcro.

rdholtz · 06-23-2008, 09:16 AM

. . . And Let's Revise the Rest of It, Too

In refining this, I decided to make the base a little narrower, reducing it from 7" width to 6-3/4", which means 1/8" less per side. That gives the fastener heads a little more breathing room.

I'll make the legs jog inward 1/8" at the bottom of the head unit. I'd like to do that with a simple jog made in the bender, but my equipment won't do that. I'll still attempt the bends on the vise, because that would be soooo much easier. But, if that doesn't work, I'll probably have to make the legs in two pieces and rivet them together.

One other change is purely cosmetic. I've modified the dimensions on the sides of the DVD mount and the sides of the head unit support brackets so they'll line up. I know that doesn't really matter because it will all be hidden, but I want the finished assembly to look as good as possible.

That means every part of this system gets minor changes from the prototype.

Meanwhile, this prototype works well enough, so I'll get it into the car for a test fit.

rdholtz · 06-24-2008, 05:54 AM

Test Installation

Here's the whole assembly, sitting in the dash, just about in the position where I think it will be best:

Click image to enlarge.

The left side of the bezel is installed, but not the right side.

The head unit can go up, down, in and out, and can be tilted pretty steeply. The DVD unit can go up and down, and in and out. It tilts with the head unit. For cramming a lot of stuff in a tight area, this is great flexibility.

This prototype sits in there so tightly that fastening it to the dash would almost be unnecessary. But the changes in the base will make it more of a slip fit, and that means I'll want to use the fasteners at the back.

Now it's time to make the final tweaks to the design, and get busy with the finished version.

lostreception · 06-24-2008, 11:20 AM

are you planning on scrapping/getting rid of the proto once your done with the final version i think id be interested

rdholtz · 06-25-2008, 08:21 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by lostreception

are you planning on scrapping/getting rid of the proto once your done with the final version i think id be interested

I don't think I'll scrap it. I probably need to build an additional unit for one of the other xBs in the family, so I'm going to look into making several. I bet we can work something out.

Once I have a final design, I'll see about getting the parts cut from something like .032 (20-gauge) aluminum. For me, the pleasure is in the design and troubleshooting; once I have something that works, I want to move on to the next project. I like to fabricate one-off pieces, but not production runs. I'll probably find someone to cut the rest for me; I'll do the bending unless they want to do that, too.

I have no idea what these would cost, but I'll get an estimate (I don't plan to become suddenly wealthy from them). Besides, your comments were part of my impetus to find a better solution, so I owe you. And paybacks are fun.

rdholtz · 06-26-2008, 09:03 AM

How About Adding Switches and a USB Port?

I've looked at the 1/2"-high extra space on both sides of the DVD unit -- about 1" wide on each side -- and it occurs to me that it might be a good place for the power and reset switches for the PC, and possibly a USB port or two. Hmmmm -- switches on the left, and USB port(s) on the right?

In doing this, I want to keep the bezel as clean and simple as possible. I'd like to avoid mounting anything more in it than Toyota already does, because it's a hassle to remove the plugs each time I take the bezel off.

I think I can change the angle brackets that align the DVD on the DVD support. I can lengthen each one about 2-1/2", notch the bottoms for bending, and make them into U-shaped pieces that include a face panel with space to mount accessories. Slots would allow depth adjustment without affecting the position of the DVD unit.

That will add a little material and a couple more fasteners, and it will add more cutting and bending, but it will keep the bezel clean and provide good flexibility in positioning the equipment.

It also means I'd better get out the Mouser catalog and look for some relatively small -- less than 1/2" square -- pushbutton switches; one on-off, and one momentary contact. If you know of a good source, I'm open.

rdholtz · 06-27-2008, 01:13 PM

Switches? No. USB Ports? Yes.

I decided to retreat on the PC on/off and reset switches idea and place those in the very bottom of the bezel area. Part of the reason is the availability of switches as small as these would need to be; I just didn't find any I like. I already have larger rocker switches I'd planned to use, so I'll stick with them.

But the space above the head unit, on either side of the DVD unit, would still be good for USB ports, or a USB port on one side and a Firewire port on the other. The USB ports I used in the face of the PC case are just under 1/2" high and just under 1-1/2" wide, so they should fit in the space available.

I'll have to be a little creative forming the supports for them; I'll convert the DVD guide brackets into combination units that also provide support for the USB/Firewire ports. If they're mounted so the faces of the ports are flush with the face of the DVD unit, they should work well and look OEM.

roflcopter · 06-27-2008, 01:48 PM

how about mounting a switch behind a pinhole in the bezel for a reset. sort of like a hard reset on a device or the little hole on most cdroms to eject. no accidental pushes or visual impact, but the availability is there if you need it.

rdholtz · 06-27-2008, 04:45 PM

That's the plan when I put it down below. The toggle switches will be for PC on/off and driving lights (not yet installed). I like the idea of no accidental restarts.

But now you've started me thinking: what if I made the PC on/off switch hidden? I like the idea of no accidental turn-offs, too. Hmmmm -- thanks for the good idea.

roflcopter · 06-27-2008, 05:22 PM

will the rocker on/off just cut the 12v to the pc? or will it act as an actual power switch connected to the mobo? if its actually on the mobo, you could just get a momentary for that and do the same thing and just hold the button (6 secs) to shut it down

rdholtz · 06-27-2008, 05:37 PM

No, the PC on/off will actually be a system power switch, controlling power to the M2-ATX. That will give me the option of running the PC and LCD panel or not. For the 3.5-mile trip to work and back, the PC is unnecessary.

The reset, on the other hand, will connect to the reset switch on the motherboard, and perform only a system reboot.

I do like your idea of making them both inconspicuous, or at least difficult to hit by mistake.

rdholtz · 06-30-2008, 06:02 PM

USB Port Mounts

After some noodling on this part of the project, I decided the best way to handle the mounts for the USB ports is to make the DVD guide brackets 1" wide instead of 1/2" wide, and long enough to extend out over the head unit. By adding another 1/2" of width to the front part that extends out, and by bending the base up to form a face, I'll have a 1/2" x 1-1/2" mount for a USB port on each side of the DVD unit. The USB ports are each fastened in with two screws, which could be covered by the bezel, although I think I may leave mine uncovered for a more "techie" look.

Right now I'm in the midst of rearranging my garage for better access to my tools, and things on the car project have been moving pretty slowly for several days.

And there's one other slowdown factor: heat. It's summer in south Florida, and I hardly want to go out into the garage. To remedy that, I got a 14,000 BTU portable air conditioner and ran the exhaust tubing up through the ceiling into the attic. If I start the air conditioner up in the morning, it can keep the whole garage at a very reasonable temperature. As is typical of a lot of area garages, there's no outside access without opening the garage door (or walking through the house and out the front door), so it's not a very good system when it comes time to do a lot of fit-checking in the vehicle.

That portable air conditioner isn't usable when I'm plastic welding, either; that takes lots of airflow -- and fresh air -- so I'll be doing that out on the patio, in the shade, with a fan blowing on me.

rdholtz · 07-02-2008, 10:10 PM

Re-Arranging the Garage, and My Face

Okay, the garage is re-arranged -- or re-deranged -- for more workspace. It should be much better to work out there.

I made a little miscalculation and a box jumped off a shelf when I moved it; the box dove down and landed on my glasses, which skidded down the bridge of my nose and deftly peeled a half inch of skin off it. It happened so fast I didn't even get any words out, except "Owwww!"

That left a mark; from what I see in the mirror, it'll be a few weeks before I can say "Well, it's no skin off my nose."

Since I have new workspace -- and since I probably shouldn't go out in public looking like this -- I can get back on task. By Saturday, I should be finished with the new version of the head unit support. There will be pictures. I promise.

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