2006 Audi A3 2.0 TDI. Symphony II PCCAR : OEM Indash Screen Prototype. Full pics!! - Page 3

Robby BMW · 06-08-2008, 11:54 AM

After a brief examination of your last (very useful) information, I've discovered that the SM89516 derives from the 8052 family and since the RDX pin of this last is connected to the internal baud rate generator, I have reached the conclusion that it is a simply RS232 signal.
Indeed analyzing the signals shown in this post, you can see very well that in reality are 5 bytes (8n1 format) and with a baudrate of 14400.
For example, the first signal (flip up), in hexadecimal is: 54 54 89 1C 4D

Moreover, if you pay attention to the 6 signals, you'll see that the first two bytes (54& 54&) are common to all signals (I think a sort of preamble), the 3rd byte seems to be a sort of addressing, as it is the same for the flip commands and the same for the input selection commands (VGA, TV, etc..), but different between the two grups.
The last two bytes could be the command to execute, or alternatively, the 4th byte could be the command and the last byte a kind of CRC error.

Plese feel free to ask me if you need more informations about it.

coucouillu · 06-09-2008, 06:19 PM

Thank you for your informations Robby.

To resume :

FLIP UP : 54 54 89 1C 4D
FLIP DOWN : 54 54 89 1D 4E
VGA : 54 54 8A 0 32
VIDEO1 : 54 54 8A 1 33
VIDEO2 : 54 54 8A 2 34
TV : 54 54 8A 3 35

EDIT : Correction of mistakes I made in HEXA codes.

coucouillu · 06-10-2008, 03:05 PM

Wow Robby,

Your the best!

Your informations were true. I have just tested the "flip up" word and it works!!!

I am going to open another thread and will post all hack I will do about Lilliput indash screen.

Thank you again. You make me save a lot of time.

coucouillu · 07-06-2008, 07:46 AM

I post now update about my work on the PICBASIC microcontroller.

I replaced the original SYNCMOS SM89516A µController by a PICBASIC PB-3B.

The goal is to make my own firmware and make the screen do what I want (also because old models of indash Lilliput were really plenty of bugs!).

Installation for prototyping :

Final install of the µC:

Here I remove analog TV tuner (I aim to hack a dual Digital TV tuner) to solder the mortors driver to the main board for heat dissipation.

coucouillu · 07-06-2008, 09:13 AM

I need a button to make open the screen.

For that I used th right rotary knob of the OEM unit and modified it :

The left knob has the "push" button option but not the right one. So I modded it. You could see on the picture below the switch in the red circle.

Now I have a "push" button.

coucouillu · 07-06-2008, 09:51 AM

Post #9 "The case" edited and updated with new pics.

colin · 07-06-2008, 10:26 AM

You are quite possibly crazy, but its about time I saw some good hardware mods around here!

coucouillu · 07-22-2008, 03:22 PM

I have finished the PCB of the motorized mechanism.

EDIT : I have the tools for building PCB (UV lights, chemical products, etc..) but I have no skills in CAD softs (like Eagle) to design it.
I will have to learn.

coucouillu · 07-24-2008, 08:48 PM

I started the test of the assembly of all parts and test of the screen going in and out.

Here the video

VIDEO

And some pics :

WraithJ · 07-25-2008, 03:55 AM

Ive been reading this thread casually since you started it and all I can say is WOW! Your work on the flip out screen is awesome and Im glad to see you carried it on from youre previous incarnations!

coucouillu · 07-26-2008, 06:07 AM

Thank you WraithJ.

Here are some pictures (from my mobile phone) in car :

coucouillu · 07-29-2008, 04:19 PM

I moved 4 butoons in the faceplate :

Buttons moved from RED to YELLOW :

CD EJECT and LOAD buttons are removed.

pdegameplayer · 08-01-2008, 09:53 PM

dude nice! um just out of curiosity don't you hate the smell that plastic makes when you touch a soldering iron to it?

rdholtz · 08-02-2008, 12:14 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by pdegameplayer

dude nice! um just out of curiosity don't you hate the smell that plastic makes when you touch a soldering iron to it?

It's more than the smell that you have to watch out for. Here's what I wrote in my worklog (post #58):

Plastic Welding -- Gotta Have Ventilation for Smoke

Good ventilation is an absolute requirement for this plastic welding. It's a smoky process, but it's more than smell that's an issue. I've been reading that breathing the fumes from it can result in chemical asthma -- permanent chemical asthma, not just something that goes away overnight. For people who already have asthma, plastic welding might be a process to avoid.

One thing is for sure: you really don't want to do this inside your house. I had to figure out a way to get the smoke and fumes away from my workspace. I started out using a 24-inch fan blowing out of the garage, but it wasn't enough. This stuff was like smoke from a campfire -- it seemed to follow me around. Now I've rigged a smaller fan right on the workbench to pull air away and direct it to the bigger fan. I'm breathing easier, now.