2003 Durango SLT / Project HiJackZX1 CFSC / 56K= D@mn this $h!+ is gonna load slow! - Page 11

HiJackZX1 · 03-14-2009, 01:55 PM

Well right now my system is working, not 100% like I would like, but its getting there. I got the new VGA splitter in, but when I first turn on the the screens connected to it start to like bleed. Once Windows starts, it works fine, but it is annoying. I'm going to see if this happens from the VGA side. Currently I have the splitter connected to the DVI-D side via a special converter. I also decided to upgrade to 8 screens. I just felt more comfortable with everyone having their own screen. So thats 3 in the front, 2 for the second row, 2 for the third row, and one big screen for the rear passengers. I am having a issue with the car not able to handle all of the electrical components, so in the future, I am replacing the alternator with a bigger one. I might also look into maybe adding a solar charging type system to the roof, since its so big. Still lots of fabing to do, but its getting there.

HiJackZX1 · 03-20-2009, 11:38 AM

After doing a major wiring redo, the system no longer has issues starting up. I thought it was the battery, but turns out it was a short. I also redid the PC setup. I had decided to move my HDD and DVD rom into the front console for easy access, but that required me to extend alot of electrical wires and SATA cabling. I started to have major HDD read and write errors and the system would crash alot. The whole reason for me extending everything was also because it was to hard to service the PC, and the rear center console looked ugly because of the PC's 2 tier design. I decided to go back to the 2 tier system, but did it in a refinded way that didnt force me to have a ugly console. Basically the the second tier holds only the HDD, and soon a SSD. I decided to have it screw to the bottom of piece that makes up the second tier. The drive sits upside down under it. The benfit is that the HDD is hit with a steady stream of air keeping it very cool and the second tier helps to reflect air down onto the GPU and Processor resulting in huge tempature drops. I hope to get my SSD drive soon, which should speed up my boot times from 15 seconds hibernation to maybe 7, we'll see. Pictures to come later.

HiJackZX1 · 03-27-2009, 11:25 AM

Just as a note, I went through the thread and deleted things that I did not think were important. This includes ideas that didnt work. If it wasnt deleted I added captions to tell what happened with the idea.

I decided to redo the wiring again. This makes the 4th edit of the cabling. Basically i want to show the car off in the near future, but with all the cables running from the console to the bottom of the seat, it looked terrible. I decided to take the plung and redo it all. Run it in a proper manner to look more OEM. It took about 3 days to do, and during that time I was poked with alot of wires that resulted in a infection in my hand and arm. I was sick for almost 4 days. Here are pics of me slowly redoing it.

Here is a picture of the old panel, and now the new panel.

I also included pictures of the PC redo. I put the HDD back near the PC to eliminate data loss, and also put the DVD ROM back on IDE. When it was on SATA, when ever I put a DVD movie in while in CF, Windows Media Player and CF would fight over who had dibs on the DVD. Putting it back on IDE has eliminated that issue.

More ideas to come.....

skeet2331 · 03-27-2009, 12:32 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

When it was on SATA, when ever I put a DVD movie in while in CF, Windows Media Player and CF would fight over who had dibs on the DVD. Putting it back on IDE has eliminated that issue.

I'm sure you checked this but isn't there a setting for WMP not to auto run a DVD giving the rights to CF?

HiJackZX1 · 03-27-2009, 01:13 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by skeet2331

I'm sure you checked this but isn't there a setting for WMP not to auto run a DVD giving the rights to CF?

Im sure there was, I recall that when the prompt came up, I check marked for WMP to do nothing when a DVD is inserted, yet everytime I change DVDs or reinsert one, the prompt came up asking what I want to do causing CF to lock up and crash. I think the main reason is because the DVD Rom was meant for IDE. Basically I had a conveter to convert it from LAPTOP port to IDE, then had another adapter to convert it to SATA. Im also thinking that the SATA adapter is really only for a HDD.

dMand · 03-27-2009, 02:56 PM

hi hijack. Just passing through to see what you're up to with this project. It looks like you have a lot on your plate!

Simplifying your circuits, by combining a few smaller ones together will make for a cleaner finished look, and perhaps make it easier for you to troubleshoot future problems.

Fuses

Having a fuse for every single component is redundant, and is really not necessary. Say, if you have three items that each require a 500 milli-amp fuse, combining all three circuits to one, 1.5 amp fuse block, is all that is needed, thereby eliminating excess wiring and materials. Another example is -two, ten amp devices, can go into one 20 amp fuse.

Also, the Break Apart Glass Fuse Holders that you are using for individual fuses are not the safest solution in my opinion. While inexpensive, the connections are bare at each end, and on top. That is not good. I'd like to reccommend the FUSE HOLDERS listed on this page so that I can sleep good at night, knowing your CARPC isn't exposed to potential hazards.

http://www.ktcables.com.au/fuses.aspx

I also see an issue on IMAG0140.jpg

in the picture, you have a zip tied USB blue-tooth device connected to a bare female USB connector

Should the device fall inside landing on top of the motherboard or PSU, it will spell disaster. As a preventive measure, put some black tape on the metallic USB connection and re attatch via zip tie.

* IMAG0042.jpg - This picture shows two black boxes (invereters?) sitting on top of live power terminals with a power brick that is loose, partially exposing 120V, is a hazard. Again, this is disaster waiting to happen.

I hope I didn't sound offensive. These are just a few tips of advice to happy carputing.

Otherwise, everything else look great.

rdholtz · 03-27-2009, 03:25 PM

I'm not a wiring guru, but I've done some wiring. I'd agree with the things you said, pretty much, except for the one quoted here:

Quote: Originally Posted by dMand

Having a fuse for every single component is redundant, and is really not necessary. Say, if you have three items that each require a 500 milli-amp fuse, combining all three circuits to one, 1.5 amp fuse block, is all that is needed, thereby eliminating excess wiring and materials. Another example is -two, ten amp devices, can go into one 20 amp fuse.

Adding fuse sizes makes no sense to me. If it works to have a 500ma fuse on a circuit, then by combining all three on a 1500ma fuse means it would take 1500ma through the fuse to blow it, and we really want it to blow at 500ma to protect any of the devices. That single 1500ma fuse doesn't seem like very good protection.

I've been taught that the maximum protection comes from placing a right-sized fuse close to each device we're protecting, and another (higher-rated) one -- or a breaker -- at the point closest to the power source. Thus, in vehicles, we have a fuse/breaker box under the hood near the battery, and a fuse box in the cabin near the devices. Admittedly, placing all the cabin fuses in the same box means some of the devices are pretty far away from their fuses, but I suspect that's to reduce cost and ease maintenance.

dMand · 03-27-2009, 04:33 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by rdholtz

I'm not a wiring guru, but I've done some wiring. I'd agree with the things you said, pretty much, except for the one quoted here:

Adding fuse sizes makes no sense to me. If it works to have a 500ma fuse on a circuit, then by combining all three on a 1500ma fuse means it would take 1500ma through the fuse to blow it, and we really want it to blow at 500ma to protect any of the devices. That single 1500ma fuse doesn't seem like very good protection.

I've been taught that the maximum protection comes from placing a right-sized fuse close to each device we're protecting, and another (higher-rated) one -- or a breaker -- at the point closest to the power source. Thus, in vehicles, we have a fuse/breaker box under the hood near the battery, and a fuse box in the cabin near the devices. Admittedly, placing all the cabin fuses in the same box means some of the devices are pretty far away from their fuses, but I suspect that's to reduce cost and ease maintenance.

In an automotive application multiple fusing is done because circuits run through metallic body parts, ie fenders, doors and such. Sometimes there are two or even three circuit protection devices for a headlight circuit.

In the event of an accident at the right front corner, for example, the metal fender gets crushed, therefore crushing the wires fixed to the metal body panel causing a short in the left front headlight, turn signal, and marker light circuits. The fuse is there to protect the wires from burning. Having each circuit fused is indeed the safest way to protect the passengers within. This is why you see a redundancy of fuses, and fusible links in an automobile.

Now lets take a look inside your pc, you have components like hard drives, cd roms, and fans. Why are they protected with one large fuse, and not protected by several smaller fuses?

Fundamentally speaking, let's say the 1500 milli-amp fuse blew, instead of one out of three 500 milli-amp fuses. What would be the worse case scenario?

HiJackZX1 · 03-27-2009, 04:59 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by rdholtz

I'm not a wiring guru, but I've done some wiring. I'd agree with the things you said, pretty much, except for the one quoted here:

Adding fuse sizes makes no sense to me. If it works to have a 500ma fuse on a circuit, then by combining all three on a 1500ma fuse means it would take 1500ma through the fuse to blow it, and we really want it to blow at 500ma to protect any of the devices. That single 1500ma fuse doesn't seem like very good protection.

I've been taught that the maximum protection comes from placing a right-sized fuse close to each device we're protecting, and another (higher-rated) one -- or a breaker -- at the point closest to the power source. Thus, in vehicles, we have a fuse/breaker box under the hood near the battery, and a fuse box in the cabin near the devices. Admittedly, placing all the cabin fuses in the same box means some of the devices are pretty far away from their fuses, but I suspect that's to reduce cost and ease maintenance.

That was my logic also. It would take a huge surge to blow that fuse out, so what if the surge is smaller then the fuse and it takes the device but not the fuse.

Believe it or not, some fuses have been consolidated, like the camera fuses. All cameras are rated at 1amp but I put 2 amp fuses for the additional IR laps that help the cameras see in the dark better. Everything else I was just to worried about blown equipment. Also I really wanted to use fuse blades, but at the auto parts stores they only have the ones I used. I decided to go with what was popular and easy to repurchase once something goes wrong and I have to replace something.

Now when it comes to were the fuse goes, most devices are near the fuse, but alot of things like screens and cameras have long cable runs. I have not had any issues with the cable runs, I know when I had the screen in the third row, any type of spike would blow the fuse. The only draw back with my design is if a fuse goes the passenger seat has to come out. I had no choice though, I saw no place else to put it.

PS: The wifi and BT are held by the ZIP tie which is connected to a plastic piece that is connected to the metal. It cannot move unless smashed. Hopefully the case will be done before that happens.

dMand · 03-27-2009, 05:51 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

That was my logic also. It would take a huge surge to blow that fuse out, so what if the surge is smaller then the fuse and it takes the device but not the fuse.

Believe it or not, some fuses have been consolidated, like the camera fuses. All cameras are rated at 1amp but I put 2 amp fuses for the additional IR laps that help the cameras see in the dark better. Everything else I was just to worried about blown equipment.

With all due respect, a power surge doesn't blow a fuse, but a spike will. I was simply making a suggestion to consolidate the devices that you have.

With three devices, each rated @ 500mA, consolidated to a single 1500mA fuse, nothing will be damaged because the combined fused rating is appropriately calling for 1500 milliamps. Electrical devices consume the voltage and amps that they're rated for.

HiJackZX1 · 03-27-2009, 06:33 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by dMand

With all due respect, a power surge doesn't blow a fuse, but a spike will. I was simply making a suggestion to consolidate the devices that you have.

With three devices, each rated @ 500mA, consolidated to a single 1500mA fuse, nothing will be damaged because the combined fused rating is appropriately calling for 1500 milliamps. Electrical devices consume the voltage and amps that they're rated for.

OOPS, I meant spike, thanks for correcting me.

I just feel more comfortable having them separate. I would rather be super anal and have them separate then be $h!++ing my pants worrying about me loosing devices. Eventually I may get the fuse blade holders, but considering I am not adding much more to the panel, i don't need the extra space. Only thing left is a USB relay, 5 more eggs for 5 additional screens, and the fuse spaces have already been set aside. Once all that is done, nothing more will be added.

dMand · 03-27-2009, 06:58 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

OOPS, I meant spike, thanks for correcting me.

I just feel more comfortable having them separate. I would rather be super anal and have them separate then be $h!++ing my pants worrying about me loosing devices. Eventually I may get the fuse blade holders, but considering I am not adding much more to the panel, i don't need the extra space. Only thing left is a USB relay, 5 more eggs for 5 additional screens, and the fuse spaces have already been set aside. Once all that is done, nothing more will be added.

I can't wait to see the finished product. I am always checking back to see what's new!

HiJackZX1 · 04-02-2009, 11:16 AM

Well I decided to open a thread on how I should place all the remaining screens I want to add. Here is the link: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/fabr...as-needed.html. Because the screens are all VGA touchscreen (EBY701), I felt doing it the traditional way would be hard and not look to good. So I decided to mount the 3rd row screens in the pillars next to each passenger, and mount the 2nd row screens to the doors.

To me it didn't really matter that it was to the side of the passenger because of the fact there will be a giant 19 inch screen in front of them. The smaller screens are strictly for control and the occasional personal viewing. While holding the screens in place I wanted to see if it bothered my neck at all, and honestly, being slightly to the side did not require that much turn of my head. There is a poll in the thread and so far people liking the pillar idea is up by one. I will be creating the mounting system, while Nexson does the fiberglassing to make it look like it should be there. This project may not be anytime soon though since the economy is so slow.

rdholtz · 04-05-2009, 04:09 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by dMand

I was simply making a suggestion to consolidate the devices that you have.

With three devices, each rated @ 500mA, consolidated to a single 1500mA fuse, nothing will be damaged because the combined fused rating is appropriately calling for 1500 milliamps. Electrical devices consume the voltage and amps that they're rated for.

I don't mean to be argumentive, but this still doesn't make sense to me. Let's say I need a 500mA fuse to protect the device if it's all by itself. How does adding other devices -- no matter how many -- and adding up their Amperages to determine the new fuse size, protect the 500mA device from a spike? What if one of the other devices isn't on, or if one of them simply burns out and can no longer absorb its portion of the load? With three 500mA fuse ratings combined into a single 1500mA fuse, none of the three 500mA devices is protected from spikes of, say, 1400mA, which might blow any of them.

It seems to me that combining fuses simply reduces or eliminates the effect of having the device individually fused. I could see putting all three devices on a single 500mA fuse, so that any spike over 500mA blows the fuse, but, for me, individual fuses just makes too much sense.

HiJackZX1 · 04-08-2009, 02:49 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by rdholtz

I don't mean to be argumentive, but this still doesn't make sense to me. Let's say I need a 500mA fuse to protect the device if it's all by itself. How does adding other devices -- no matter how many -- and adding up their Amperages to determine the new fuse size, protect the 500mA device from a spike? What if one of the other devices isn't on, or if one of them simply burns out and can no longer absorb its portion of the load? With three 500mA fuse ratings combined into a single 1500mA fuse, none of the three 500mA devices is protected from spikes of, say, 1400mA, which might blow any of them.

It seems to me that combining fuses simply reduces or eliminates the effect of having the device individually fused. I could see putting all three devices on a single 500mA fuse, so that any spike over 500mA blows the fuse, but, for me, individual fuses just makes too much sense.

That was exactly my view on the issue. In the end its not that big of a deal though, yes it takes up alot more room then id like having individual fuses, but also its the safest route which should be #1 in the list anytime working with your car. I did combine a few devices, but only the cameras. I combined them with I/R lamps to help see farther in the dark, everything else though in my setup is fused.

I recently made a few changes to the panel though and moved my little medicine bottle PSU next to one of the distro blocks to get it out the way. I then added a USB relay for the 2 VGA powered splitters. I literally only have enough room for the 4 other Lilliput regulators and the 19 inch regulator. If I plan to add anything else, I'm stuck.

I decided to PM Nexson on some small projects. During install one, I destroyed a panel trying to add a USB DVD Rom to it. Now I have a hole in the panel and I am hoping he can patch it up and make it look OEM. I also added the 9th speaker to my setup which is dedicated to hands free phone. I cut a hole in another panel, but the hole is rough and jagged, so I hope Nexson can clean it up.

So my current projects are to buy a SSD, and look into adding 6 more speakers for voice and what not. That would bring my setup to 15 speakers. Only reason I decided to do this is because I think it would be nice to have voice and what not split out. I guess to do all this I have to use crossovers and stuff I know nothing about. If anyone wants to explain how it work, you can.

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