2003 Durango SLT / Project HiJackZX1 CFSC / 56K= D@mn this $h!+ is gonna load slow! - Page 17

SwiftDeath · 05-05-2009, 10:48 AM

I still don't understand why you can't just connect the touchscreens to a usb hub connected to your computer and assign them virtually. Maybe I missed something that your attempting to do? If you wanted to, you could put an automatic or manual usb switch between the touchscreen and the hub so it switches to a different connection.

HiJackZX1 · 05-05-2009, 11:16 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by SwiftDeath

I still don't understand why you can't just connect the touchscreens to a usb hub connected to your computer and assign them virtually. Maybe I missed something that your attempting to do? If you wanted to, you could put an automatic or manual usb switch between the touchscreen and the hub so it switches to a different connection.

The problem with assigning them virtually is that say for example your in shared mode, it will work fine, but when you switch to single mode, the touchscreen will still continue to control only the host PC. Now thankfully NComputing has excellent customer support, these people really know their $h!+. We literally had almost an hour long conversation. One thing that was brought up is that their statement about only supporting flash drives, is the safe statement. Alot of their customers have got lots of different devices to work. He would not tell me how though, lol. He also mentioned that the USB port is not powered, this means if I use a wireless keyboard, I have to make sure it is powered via a USB hub. What I may do is actually buy a 15W PSU for each terminal. This would allow me to power the L230 Terminals and a 4 port USB hub. If this method works, it means I can simply use a USB KVM switch. He also told me about a 30 day trial and that I should buy a unit, see if my devices work, and if they do, I'm good to go. I may take them up on that offer.

In all what I am trying to do is have each user be able to control 2 sides of the PC, their single PC experience and a combined user experience. Basically the L230 cant handle high multimedia stuff. It can only handle basic stuff. So say they want to watch SatTV they switch over to combined mode to control the channels and what not. Then if they want to browse the internet or go on a messenger, they just switch over to single mode.

On a side note, my hinges have been sent out from Esela USA Corp. I will be able to work on my screens soon.

SwiftDeath · 05-05-2009, 11:32 AM

Ah good I was worried that it was in some way my fault that you were having such trouble, but in reality it's because you want so much fre@kin' control and options.

My hat was off to you when I first read your worklog. It's somewhere in the basement now......

Edit: I was also worried for my own skin because the way I mentioned was how I was planning to do it, but I think it should work fine for me.

rdholtz · 05-05-2009, 11:39 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

Ive decided to strip my car later today and start wiring the Cat5 cable. and other electrical cables. Thankfully I had a box of 1000ft of it, I just need someone to attach the connectors on the end. The stereo wire will also be run through the top, to avoid any EMI.

You could do your own connectors. The Cat5/Cat5e tool is available at Radio Shack (about $40), but here's a link to the AntOnline page where the crimper and tester kit shown below is $38.13, including shipping. That's a good deal. Add 50 connectors for $9.

Putting the ends on is not at all difficult. It takes some care, but you have lots of ends to put on, so you'll still come out ahead.

There are two systems for wiring Cat5 cables, called "A" and "B", and you can use either one, as long as you use it on both ends of the cable; "B" is the one most commonly used. If you use "A" on one end and "B" on the other, you get a crossover cable.

Here's a link to information on putting the ends on, and here's another. With a little practice, you'll zoom through the job, you won't have to pay anyone, and you'll have the tool and tester to keep.

HiJackZX1 · 05-05-2009, 12:31 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by SwiftDeath

Ah good I was worried that it was in some way my fault that you were having such trouble, but in reality it's because you want so much fre@kin' control and options.

My hat was off to you when I first read your worklog. It's somewhere in the basement now......

Edit: I was also worried for my own skin because the way I mentioned was how I was planning to do it, but I think it should work fine for me.

LMFAO, no its cool the way you explained it. From my work log though, you should have got that I like to complicate everything, LMFAO. The Ncomputing guy thought I made it complicated too.....

Quote: Originally Posted by rdholtz

You could do your own connectors. The Cat5/Cat5e tool is available at Radio Shack (about $40), but here's a link to the AntOnline page where the crimper and tester kit shown below is $38.13, including shipping. That's a good deal. Add 50 connectors for $9.

Putting the ends on is not at all difficult. It takes some care, but you have lots of ends to put on, so you'll still come out ahead.

There are two systems for wiring Cat5 cables, called "A" and "B", and you can use either one, as long as you use it on both ends of the cable; "B" is the one most commonly used. If you use "A" on one end and "B" on the other, you get a crossover cable.

Here's a link to information on putting the ends on, and here's another. With a little practice, you'll zoom through the job, you won't have to pay anyone, and you'll have the tool and tester to keep.

I have the crimper, but not the meter to test if I did it right. Maybe its because im not patient.

rdholtz · 05-05-2009, 01:50 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

I have the crimper, but not the meter to test if I did it right. Maybe its because im not patient.

Get the tester. You'll really appreciate it the first time you screw up a cable and the tester tells you; without it, you could chase the problem for a long time.

HiJackZX1 · 05-05-2009, 02:26 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by rdholtz

Get the tester. You'll really appreciate it the first time you screw up a cable and the tester tells you; without it, you could chase the problem for a long time.

i agree, im going to go ahead and get it. Im also going to redo the factory harness and basically remove it. I need the space for all the new cables. My biggest challenge is running the VGA cables...... Any suggestions on that? I dont want to have to drill huge holes in the frame and door to run them.

rdholtz · 05-05-2009, 03:14 PM

The tiny VGA plug on the side of the Lilliput tells me there are smaller cable ends you could use. Maybe those ends are available at Mouser or some comparable place; it's possible that using them would let you run smaller adapters, and therefore drill smaller holes.

But there's an alternative: in the electrical department, you can find a clamping adapter that holds Romex as it goes through the side of a wiring box. They're available for several hole and cable sizes. That would be one way to cover the holes you make using regular VGA cables.

You could also cover the holes with a cover plate held on with screws. It would make a much cleaner installation than the Romex adapter. You could attach the covers with sheet metal screws, but, if you put rivet nuts in the door panel, you could use machine screws so there would be no pointy end on the fasteners.

HiJackZX1 · 05-05-2009, 07:34 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by rdholtz

The tiny VGA plug on the side of the Lilliput tells me there are smaller cable ends you could use. Maybe those ends are available at Mouser or some comparable place; it's possible that using them would let you run smaller adapters, and therefore drill smaller holes.

But there's an alternative: in the electrical department, you can find a clamping adapter that holds Romex as it goes through the side of a wiring box. They're available for several hole and cable sizes. That would be one way to cover the holes you make using regular VGA cables.

You could also cover the holes with a cover plate held on with screws. It would make a much cleaner installation than the Romex adapter. You could attach the covers with sheet metal screws, but, if you put rivet nuts in the door panel, you could use machine screws so there would be no pointy end on the fasteners.

You lost me... lol.... The Lilliput is not problem because you can unscrew it and then reattach once in the hole. I also have to run extension cables for the KVM switch. I think if I cut the end off, like the part with screw holders, it will fit easily.

I got the hinges and connected them, they are awesome. Just hate what I had to pay for them.

rdholtz · 05-05-2009, 08:00 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

You lost me... lol.... The Lilliput is not problem because you can unscrew it and then reattach once in the hole. I also have to run extension cables for the KVM switch. I think if I cut the end off, like the part with screw holders, it will fit easily.

I was suggesting you might be able to (1) adapt the VGA to a smaller plug like the Lilliput or (2) use the full-size VGA plugs, but cover the holes for them pretty nicely.

HiJackZX1 · 05-05-2009, 08:15 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by rdholtz

I was suggesting you might be able to (1) adapt the VGA to a smaller plug like the Lilliput or (2) use the full-size VGA plugs, but cover the holes for them pretty nicely.

LMAO, I thought that was what you said.

I am now trying to figure out how to make the sides and what not for the top screens. I think it will be easier then I thought. I guess it took me having the hinges to image what I need to do. I now have to get Nexson to see my vision and make it a reality.

SwiftDeath · 05-05-2009, 08:31 PM

Have you figured out whether the touch screen USB can be adapted to ps2 to allow you to set this up? Also did you settle on a KVM Switch?

Also the hinges make that screen setup awesome. So although they cost a lot... I think it will be worth it in the end.

HiJackZX1 · 05-05-2009, 09:45 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by SwiftDeath

Have you figured out whether the touch screen USB can be adapted to ps2 to allow you to set this up? Also did you settle on a KVM Switch?

Also the hinges make that screen setup awesome. So although they cost a lot... I think it will be worth it in the end.

At this point I don't know what to think. Only way is to try it. I am hoping that a USB hub on the L230 will allow me to use the touchscreen that way. I know the keyboard will work, but touchscreen is still up in the air. I have to get my hands on a L230 to play with it. With the tech saying that their "only flash drives work on the USB port" is a safe statement may mean it may work. I also tried to contact a USB KVM manufacturer and he claims that a USB touch screen cannot be used on a USB KVM. I don't know who to trust! I am also out of ideas if this is true.

Yes they do... I am p!$$ed that I ordered a different type of hinge that didn't work at all. I ordered 4 of those at $10.00 a hinge. Oh well Ive wasted more money in the past, lol. That is also why I am treading very carefully with this Ncomputing solution, it will be a huge blow to me and my wallet if this fails. I have started to research other thin client companies, they all have full USB support, so I don't know why NComputing doesn't do the same thing. I read their forums and some techs claim, having full USB support will cause LAG, but all they have to add is support for low devices like Touchscreens, USB Keyboards and mice. To force people to use a outdated PS2 port is so stupid. Who the f%c* still uses that?????????????? I have heard also that I may be stuck with PS2 because each L230 has its own BIOS. If it doesn't detect a keyboard and mouse in BIOS, it wont boot. I hope that isn't true. Only way to tell is to get the L230 and play with it.

Also another thing to mention is that the PS2 adapter may or may not work, the good thing is, that my EBY701 screens, power the USB controllers, they are not powered by the USB port. So they may work.

HiJackZX1 · 05-07-2009, 12:52 PM

Well looks like the NComputing idea may be dead

. There are to many limitations that I just could not deal with. Now I am still interested in the idea, but I want to change it a bit. Rather then go with NComputing, i can go with a real thin client. Basically I would create Virtual disks that would hold the OS I want per user, including software, and run everything that way. I would also have full USB support and be able to use a USB touchscreen and keyboard. The pricing is actually about the same as the NComputing L230 device. I have contacted several companies so they can tell me how it works, so lets see.....

HiJackZX1 · 05-07-2009, 03:05 PM

I see that on Ebay, I can buy a thin client for about $35.00. Most come with Windows CE and are about 800MHZ. This should be enough right? Only thing is I dont know how to set them up.

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