2003 Durango SLT / Project HiJackZX1 CFSC / 56K= D@mn this $h!+ is gonna load slow! - Page 22

HiJackZX1 · 06-01-2009, 07:58 PM

OK, the AMP idea will work. OH GOD though, I started to rerun all the wiring, its going to take me soooooooo long! I got half way done, but I am going to need alot of extensions. Now I know all the pains that people go through when they have their PC in the boot. Thankfully I don't need amplified USB cables. I do need alot of VGA extensions and a few more USB cables. The main issue is that to access the 6 new PCs, the KVM cables reach because they are next to each other. The main PC though is in the middle of the car. I think the easy thing to do is to extend the USB hub that is strictly for the touch screens and extend it to the back of the car. That way no huge lengths of cables. So much to work out.

HiJackZX1 · 06-03-2009, 02:47 PM

I ran out of VGA and USB extensions, so I ordered more from BuyExtras.com, they are awesome, $3.45 for USB extensions, thats cheap, with $.99 shipping. The VGA was $12.95, but Office Max sells them for $12.99 so I bought 3 from there. I did buy a small 3 foot VGA extension for my HU screen, before I was using a 10 foot cable but rolled up. Now it will reach with no rolling up, and I was able to use the 10 foot for one of the other screens that had a long run. I decided to run the USB and VGA in the top of the car, it saved alot of space and headaches. I have also relocated the Wi-Fi dongle to the top and at the front of the car to avoid GPS issues. I also ran one of the 7-port hubs to the back, the KVM will connect to that for the Keyboard and Touchscreen function. I thought it was better to simply move that, rather then have to extend all USB connection to the front. I also decided to place the powered VGA splitters in the area where the ethernet switch and access point go. By doing this I avoid having to run all those USB and VGA cables to the back, past the amps. Everything that needs to basically connect to the KVM is basically right there. Another thing I changed is adding a USB port to the each arm rest. That is just to much headache, so instead the will run to the center console. That means less wiring and it all goes to one central location. Now that I think about it, I might just add everything to the center console, why go through a mission modding the doors when I dont have too. So that means the only thing that will need to be run to the doors is the speaker wire.

I am still trying to figure out what to do for the second row screens. I cannot mount them on the doors because of all the shock from opening and closing. I may have to either put them in the pillars, but they would have to reach alittle, or in the seats, but you all know i dont like that idea. Give me input please!!!!!!!

rdholtz · 06-03-2009, 03:14 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

I am still trying to figure out what to do for the second row screens. I cannot mount them on the doors because of all the shock from opening and closing. I may have to either put them in the pillars, but they would have to reach alittle, or in the seats, but you all know i dont like that idea. Give me input please!!!!!!!

Since there's only one seat on each side of the console, how about using the console as a base and pivoting one LCD panel from each side of it? There are arms for that, like this one from Amazon. That would let each passenger position their panel where they want it, and let you stash the panels out of the way when not in use.

HiJackZX1 · 06-03-2009, 03:45 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by rdholtz

Since there's only one seat on each side of the console, how about using the console as a base and pivoting one LCD panel from each side of it? There are arms for that, like this one from Amazon. That would let each passenger position their panel where they want it, and let you stash the panels out of the way when not in use.

HMMM, thats a good idea, although I dont want them in the console, maybe those arms can be used to extend from each pillar. In all my designs I kept trying to put the screen directly to something. If I use the arm I can make the screen sit so that it equals were on the door I wanted it to be. Only difference is that when I open and close the door, the screen doesnt move with it. Thanks rdholtz.

vincenttor · 06-03-2009, 05:05 PM

maybe put the arm like rdholtz said
and mount it on the roof ?

HiJackZX1 · 06-03-2009, 07:22 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by vincenttor

maybe put the arm like rdholtz said
and mount it on the roof ?

I've actually figured it out. I will put the screen in the same posistion, but an arm will hold the screen over the door. That should work. I dont know why I didnt think of the arm idea.

jpinkerton · 06-03-2009, 07:35 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

I ran out of VGA and USB extensions, so I ordered more from BuyExtras.com, they are awesome, $3.45 for USB extensions, thats cheap, with $.99 shipping. The VGA was $12.95, but Office Max sells them for $12.99 so I bought 3 from there.

Also might want to check Monoprice.com too for cables. 15' USB Extension for $1.53, shipping is based on weight so grab a couple for the cheap.

Is the 99cent shipping a flat rate?

HiJackZX1 · 06-03-2009, 07:43 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jpinkerton

Also might want to check Monoprice.com too for cables. 15' USB Extension for $1.53, shipping is based on weight so grab a couple for the cheap.

Is the 99cent shipping a flat rate?

Yea, its free shipping in the USA, with $.99 handling fee.

HiJackZX1 · 06-04-2009, 03:55 PM

OK, after pulling my hair out on how to get a USB port to each door, I decided to just do it the easy way and have all the ports added to the center console. I am also going to have all power and PC selection buttons in there also. This of course means a total redesign of the console again!!!!!!!!!!

vincenttor · 06-04-2009, 05:24 PM

why not buy some usb cable and then put then from the hub to the doors ?
i use for my wifi antenna a 10m cable + a 5m with a amplifier between it to boost the signal works perfect
or is that not what u mean

HiJackZX1 · 06-04-2009, 06:49 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by vincenttor

why not buy some usb cable and then put then from the hub to the doors ?
i use for my wifi antenna a 10m cable + a 5m with a amplifier between it to boost the signal works perfect
or is that not what u mean

The problem is its six different computers. So PC1 has to extend to Door1, PC2 to Door2, and so on. Anything over 10 feet has signal lose. The front door is about 20 feet, rear door about 13 feet. If I have the USB come to the console, thats 7 feet for all USB cables. I did reconsider the power, PC selection, and audio port. Instead of also having it in the console, I am going to put those in the doors. I will run everything via CAT5 cable. A CAT5 cable has 8 wires inside, so 2 for power, 2 for pc selection, 4 for stereo sound. I dont have distance issues with those components. I started to run all the ethernet cable, so thats all mostly done, still have to run from ethernet switch to Main PC. I also have to make a port on the console so I dont have to take the console out all the time to get to the second ethernet port on the Main PC. Problem is because I am adding 8 ports to the front of the second console, the whole thing as to be redesigned, also have to add the DVD Rom, and card reader. The 2 USB ports for the rear will go at the rear of the second center console. I hope this will work out. I am going to build this with SketchUp though.

HiJackZX1 · 06-05-2009, 01:15 PM

OK, went to RadioShack and picked up some small push buttons. They will be incorporated into the armrests. They didnt have enough, so I oredered the rest from Parts-Express.com. I also ordered 6 stereo headphone jacks also. This will be a easy mod because all I have to do is drill holes and screw them in. The buttons will be a challenge because I dont want the metal part showing. So I may mount it in a way so that only a small part of the top of the button sticks out, but enough so that when it is pushed, it does its job. Red is for power, and black is for PC selection. For the main PC, red is for power and black is for reset. The personal PCs will use EWF and HORM, so restart isnt needed, just power on and off.

HiJackZX1 · 06-06-2009, 11:08 AM

I started on the door controls for the personal PCs and headphone jack. Have a few issues with the prototype, so need ideas on how to fill in the holes that I made to big.

I did take out the driver side and the control that it uses is massive. I cannot fit really any controls into it. I have decided to delete my hot key idea for CF and pray I can fit the power and pc selection and headphone jack some how. The camera system will use the arrow keys which use to control the mirrors.

WraithJ · 06-06-2009, 03:40 PM

With your USB issues, have you thought about usb Ethernet USB extenders, basically, usb female one end, usb male the other end and up to 50ft inbetween with no signal loss

rdholtz · 06-06-2009, 03:51 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

I started on the door controls for the personal PCs and headphone jack. Have a few issues with the prototype, so need ideas on how to fill in the holes that I mad to big.

The easiest way would probably be to determine what the material is, and use a hardening plastic filler that adheres to it. Then re-drill to the proper size.

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