2003 Durango SLT / Project HiJackZX1 CFSC / 56K= D@mn this $h!+ is gonna load slow! - Page 28

sporty_drew · 07-22-2009, 10:20 PM

What are you upgrading to? I remember when I did 0 Gauge on my car. It was the only thing that kind of bothered me, don't know why pry just because I had never put all the ends on and stuff lol.

HiJackZX1 · 07-22-2009, 11:26 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by sporty_drew

What are you upgrading to? I remember when I did 0 Gauge on my car. It was the only thing that kind of bothered me, don't know why pry just because I had never put all the ends on and stuff lol.

I have been having alot of powering issues, big time dimming, and that was when I had my weak system. Now I am upgrading to a bigger setup with 7 computers. I know the power wont run good with the stock wire, because it isnt able to handle its own devices, lol. Thankfully I have a large engine bay so it all can be reached easily. I just have to order the knukonceptz battery terminals. They are the only ones that have a battery terminal that has three 0 gauge ports. I may also buy their terminals for the ends also. Only part that make me nervous is the wire going into the fuse box from the alternator. Im scared of breaking something.

sporty_drew · 07-22-2009, 11:29 PM

That is the way I felt. KNU has good stuff, I've ordered from them. What does your stock alternator put out? Are you planning on upgrading it anytime soon (if you have not already)?

HiJackZX1 · 07-22-2009, 11:37 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by sporty_drew

That is the way I felt. KNU has good stuff, I've ordered from them. What does your stock alternator put out? Are you planning on upgrading it anytime soon (if you have not already)?

See thats the thing, thewizard, drives a Dodge RAM, but it has the same engine (Magnum 4.7L V8). He actually did the upgrade from 8 gauge to 0 gauge. He says he immediately noticed a difference and his system is massive when it comes to audio and amps. He is actually still running the stock alternator, same as mine, which puts out 130 amps. I am thinking its the cr@ppy wire that is causing the issues. If I do have the start up issue (I have to REV my engine to get my CAR PC to start), then I will upgrade to a 220 amp alternator.

sporty_drew · 07-23-2009, 01:22 AM

Well that nice that you have someone to compare to. What does the stock alternator put out at idle?

HiJackZX1 · 07-23-2009, 06:24 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by sporty_drew

Well that nice that you have someone to compare to. What does the stock alternator put out at idle?

Usually its like half that I noticed. So its 68 Amps at idle. The new one would do 110, and do a full 220 at 2500 rpm, which is awesome.

sporty_drew · 07-24-2009, 02:31 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

Usually its like half that I noticed. So its 68 Amps at idle. The new one would do 110, and do a full 220 at 2500 rpm, which is awesome.

Oh okay, didn't know that it was normally half since my high output puts out 70%(140 amps) just at idle.

HiJackZX1 · 07-24-2009, 06:11 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by sporty_drew

Oh okay, didn't know that it was normally half since my high output puts out 70%(140 amps) just at idle.

It really all depends on the alternator. It may be different on other brands.

HiJackZX1 · 07-26-2009, 09:20 PM

Today I ordered the rest of my buttons for the arm rest controls. I decided to order bigger ones that mount perfect. I bought them all in black, but for power they are hexagon shaped, and PC switching is round. They are alittle bigger then I like, but they look good, and easy to change out if they break. I also ordered a new DVD ROM. Its a Alienware DVD ROM, it can also burn CD-Rs, which I don't need, but it was cheaper then buying a Panisonic drive. I got this one for about 30.00 including shipping. The others were about 40.00. So I guess if anyone wants to burn a CD, they can while going somewhere. I decided to buy the battery terminals, they had them at Pepboys. I just have to find the terminals for the 0 gauge cables. I will try to work on that sometime this week.

sporty_drew · 07-26-2009, 09:25 PM

Sounds like fun. Mind sharing a link to where you got the dvd rom? Is it slotload? I just won a 2000 blazer on ebay so i'm thinking it'll need a carputer too. Have you picked up a fuse/ distribution block for inside yet?

HiJackZX1 · 07-26-2009, 11:03 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by sporty_drew

Sounds like fun. Mind sharing a link to where you got the dvd rom? Is it slotload? I just won a 2000 blazer on ebay so i'm thinking it'll need a carputer too. Have you picked up a fuse/ distribution block for inside yet?

It was off of Ebay. Ebay is my best friend, lol.... It was a pull from a Alienware laptop. Yes it is slot load. Tray load would drive me crazy, especially since my drive has to face facing up, since its part of the armrest. I already have the fuse from the alternator to the battery. I just need another for the battery to the AMP line. That I will get from Pep Boys, so it matches the one I have. As for the inside, I am going to buy a 3 way 0 gauge splitter, basically the line coming into the car will connect to one side, the line running to the back will run to the rear. The last port will be 4 gauge and run to a in-line fuse, then to the car PC. I already have 3 in-line fuse holders, so Id rather use them. For the rear, the same thing. I want to use a solid 0 gauge to 4 port 4 gauge splitter, and use in-line fuses. I also need to get another splitter for the ground wires too. Its all slowly coming together. I just cant wait till I am done paying off my other car. Only thing holding me back right now is money, I have to really carefully plan things out. Once I am done with the other car, I can use it to finish my system.

sporty_drew · 07-26-2009, 11:12 PM

I'll have to keep an eye on ebay.

I asked about the splitter/ distro because I found a nice one when doing mine. It's a 0 gauge in 4 gauge out. It also has the same for the grounds. It has a cover, I just don't have in installed in that picture yet.

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...k/P1010088.jpg

Heres the best picture of I have of it installed
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...g?t=1248664248

HiJackZX1 · 07-28-2009, 03:11 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by sporty_drew

I'll have to keep an eye on ebay.

I asked about the splitter/ distro because I found a nice one when doing mine. It's a 0 gauge in 4 gauge out. It also has the same for the grounds. It has a cover, I just don't have in installed in that picture yet.

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...k/P1010088.jpg

Heres the best picture of I have of it installed
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...g?t=1248664248

Ive seen those! That would be cool for the 12V side. For the ground though, a solid would be better.

I have ordered the ring terminals for the "Big 3". I hope they fit

. If not I will be mad, which I usually am anyways, lol. I am sure they will fit though. I then have to buy a new ANL fuse rated at 140 amps, to match what I have in the car now.

rdholtz · 07-28-2009, 03:23 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

Ive seen those! That would be cool for the 12V side. For the ground though, a solid would be better.

A solid lead? Noooo. Solid leads can stress fracture with vibration. You want stranded cable in any mobile environment because it's much more forgiving of vibration and motion.

HiJackZX1 · 07-28-2009, 03:27 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by rdholtz

A solid lead? Noooo. Solid leads can stress fracture with vibration. You want stranded cable in any mobile environment because it's much more forgiving of vibration and motion.

NO, I meant a solid distribution block for the ground points. The fuse box he pictured would be great for the 12V side. It would get rid of the need for in-line fuses. If the distro is cheaper then the 2 more in-line fuses I need, then I will go for that and keep the 2 in-lines for a rainy day.

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