2003 Durango SLT / Project HiJackZX1 CFSC / 56K= D@mn this $h!+ is gonna load slow! - Page 29

HiJackZX1 · 07-29-2009, 08:16 PM

On my install I redid all my wires to hid under the carpet and behind panels. Basically when you get into the car, I don't want wiring to be obvious. I skipped the 4 gauge, and 4 power wires running from the center console to a compartment to the bottom of my seat. You could see them running from the console if you looked closely. I originally only had a 8 gauge wire there, once I upgraded to 4 gauge and added all those power wires, the cables just bothered me to death. Also when I would adjust the seat, the wires would get caught also. I decided to finally take out the driver seat and run that cable under the carpet. The rear bolts were so tight, it broke my socket wrench. I finally figured out that my tire iron had the same socket and that got the bolts right out. I then couldn't find the release clip for the electronics, so I said f%^k it. I simply let the seat dangle, hanging out my door. I then reran all cables and now everything is nice and clean. No more wire snag either. Only wire really left to run is two 24 gauge cables to the rear view mirror, for the video feed from the camera I am installing. I am also installing two 22 gauge wire for power. I plan to integrate the camera into the mirror screen. I had decided in the past not to run a camera, but then I realized it would be cool for when I track the car. I then saw a video from a user on here that has a driving camera, and it showed all the close calls he had. I decided that for insurance and law enforcement purposes, I would have cameras all around the car.

I got the terminals, ordered all the wire and rings that connect to the rings. One thing that bothered me was the fuse for the car. It has a fuse that blows at 140 amps. They do not sell 140 ANL fuses so I decided to simply upgrade to 150 amps ANL fuse. It is 10 AMPs over, but if the regulator does go on the Alternator, it will be spitting way more then 150 amps, which will blow it. I really want to do this soon. Its so weird that if I turn on my blinker, the A/C will lower, lol.

HiJackZX1 · 08-01-2009, 09:38 AM

Well I decided to upgrade. It took alot longer then I thought it would. I decided to replace the line from alternator to battery, and battery to fuse box. I left the starter wire 8 gauge. On the Ground side, I replaced the battery to chassis, but on the battery to engine ground, I left the original ground wire because it was actually tied into other things. I simply ran the 0 gauge with the original. I am not happy with the terminals at all. They feel cr@ppy to me, and the dont feel like there is a good fit. I am going to order the 3 port 0 gauge holder from KnuKonceptz. That should be good for Ground. With the 12V side I have to figure out a way to connect everything. I am not going to worry about it now though. I am not ready to do the run for the Car PC. So I will worry about it later.

HiJackZX1 · 08-01-2009, 03:48 PM

As you guys know, I have decided to X out all my rear view mirrors. One thing that concerned me though is the recording aspect of things. I basically want the system to record 4 cameras when ever the car is turned on. Thing is, I do not want to view all 4 cameras, I only want to see the rear areas. To do this I plan to use the current DQP to simply turn onto 4 way mode. I will never see this though because it will be plugged into the DVR and if I need to view, I simply switch the screen to AV2. For my viewing, a new DQP will be bought, that will always be in 3 way mode. By doing this, I see the view I want, but incase of an accident, I will record all view all the time.

I also got my new buttons in today so now I can finish those and install them. I currently can not roll down my windows or electronically unlock doors. I have to use the key chain. Its really annoying, lol.

sporty_drew · 08-02-2009, 01:11 AM

What method did you use for putting the terminals on the cable?

HiJackZX1 · 08-02-2009, 06:21 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by sporty_drew

What method did you use for putting the terminals on the cable?

took the ring terminals, sanded the inside of them, then slide wire through. I then took a hammer and beat the $h!+ out of the terminal, lol. I then did pull tests to make sure they are snug and cant pull off.

I have decided to go with the knukonceptz terminals. For the negative side this will be more then enough. For the 12V side though, I have enough for the three 0 gauge wires, but nothing for the final 8 gauge wire. I decided to simple attach that wire to the terminals screw that tightens the terminal to the battery. It should fit perfectly.

sporty_drew · 08-02-2009, 08:28 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

took the ring terminals, sanded the inside of them, then slide wire through. I then took a hammer and beat the $h!+ out of the terminal, lol. I then did pull tests to make sure they are snug and cant pull off.

Absolute best quote ever!!

They make crimping tools for bigger gauges to pinch them in there without flattening them. I personally have not used them since I used a hammer and a punch and then solder and a torch, but I hear they work great.

I like those terminals, nice clean look to them.

rdholtz · 08-02-2009, 09:20 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by sporty_drew

. . . I used a hammer and a punch and then solder and a torch . . .

Drew makes a good point: if you want them bulletproof, solder them, too. Heat the bottom of the terminal enough that the solder wicks into the wires. Don't heat the solder with the torch, or it gets carbon deposits (byproducts of combustion) in it -- it's a black residue you don't want. Some good shrink tubing will cover any melting of the cable covering, and make your work look great.

sporty_drew · 08-02-2009, 09:27 PM

Couldn't have described what I did better, lol

HiJackZX1 · 08-03-2009, 12:49 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by sporty_drew

Absolute best quote ever!!

They make crimping tools for bigger gauges to pinch them in there without flattening them. I personally have not used them since I used a hammer and a punch and then solder and a torch, but I hear they work great.

I like those terminals, nice clean look to them.

Quote: Originally Posted by rdholtz

Drew makes a good point: if you want them bulletproof, solder them, too. Heat the bottom of the terminal enough that the solder wicks into the wires. Don't heat the solder with the torch, or it gets carbon deposits (byproducts of combustion) in it -- it's a black residue you don't want. Some good shrink tubing will cover any melting of the cable covering, and make your work look great.

Yea I saw the tools, but for $74.00 for a tool i'll only use once, beating the $h!+ out of them was easier. I will go back and use a punch, when I get the knukonceptz terminals.

I'll try the sodering too. I have a ton of the thick soder.

rdholtz · 08-03-2009, 01:28 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

Yea I saw the tools, but for $74.00 for a tool i'll only use once, beating the $h!+ out of them was easier. I will go back and use a punch, when I get the knukonceptz terminals.

I'll try the sodering too. I have a ton of the thick soder.

If you have the cables out of the car, you might consider using a vise: it's a very controlled application of lots of force, right where you want it. And you don't have to expend much energy.

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

. . . took a hammer and beat the $h!+ out of the terminal, lol.

That does burn up some frustration, though.

colin · 08-03-2009, 02:28 AM

If you lie a screwdriver bit on top of the terminal and beat that down, it leaves a hexagon shaped imprint on the terminal. I forget where I read that online, but it was the only piece of advice I got on how to attach those!

That way, it doesn't flatten, and it stays really really tight. It's as if you used a real crimper because the actual pressure point is right on the center of the terminal (assuming you can line it up right).

peewee3ie · 08-03-2009, 07:29 AM

If you use a straight screwdriver for negative and a philps for positive. Onething if you do this you will have your cables marked well so you should not get them mixed up

HiJackZX1 · 08-03-2009, 03:48 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by rdholtz

That does burn up some frustration, though.

We all know I have plenty of that to go around. With all the frustration I have, I could start a "Beat the $h!+ out of terminals" factory.

Quote: Originally Posted by colin

If you lie a screwdriver bit on top of the terminal and beat that down, it leaves a hexagon shaped imprint on the terminal. I forget where I read that online, but it was the only piece of advice I got on how to attach those!

That way, it doesn't flatten, and it stays really really tight. It's as if you used a real crimper because the actual pressure point is right on the center of the terminal (assuming you can line it up right).

Quote: Originally Posted by peewee3ie

If you use a straight screwdriver for negative and a philps for positive. Onething if you do this you will have your cables marked well so you should not get them mixed up

I will try that. Although I think mine are pretty solid. I did decide to dump the knukonceptz terminals, turns out they are bad. I am going with a pair mentioned by "thewizard", he has the same engine. It only has two 0 gauge ports, but he took the third and connected to the bolt that tightens the terminal to the battery. I dont know why I didnt think of that, maybe because its hard for me to think simple, I always over complicate things.

Here is a picture of his. Mine will not have as many wires, because I am not running a monster audio setup like he is. See how on the bolt he has a third 0 gauge. The 8 gauge I have been trying to place has a port on the terminal. It has two 0 gauge and two 8 gauge.

peewee3ie · 08-03-2009, 03:58 PM

HiJack,

I hope he does not have to open that fuse box (if it is a fuse box) where he has the fuse holders screwed down

HiJackZX1 · 08-03-2009, 04:04 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by peewee3ie

HiJack,

I hope he does not have to open that fuse box (if it is a fuse box) where he has the fuse holders screwed down

That is the fuse box. Its very deep though. I am actually going to attach mine to the same area. There is literally no place else to put the fuses. Any other place is too hot and will melt the fuse. Another option I can do is switch to inline fuses, I wouldnt have to connect those to anything.

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