2003 Durango SLT / Project HiJackZX1 CFSC / 56K= D@mn this $h!+ is gonna load slow! - Page 33

Fireman · 09-06-2009, 07:20 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by rdholtz

The easiest way would probably be to determine what the material is, and use a hardening plastic filler that adheres to it. Then re-drill to the proper size.

or you could just buy a new one from a wrecking yard...probably pretty cheap

HiJackZX1 · 09-06-2009, 09:37 PM

Well its been almost 1 1/2 years of nightmares trying to get my center console for the car. Here was Console 1.0:

It was scrapped though because it just didn't look good. It was so hard to get the d@mn thing off and the PC's double shelf system was a b!+ch.

Console 2.0:

I simply knew this would be to hard to upholster. It was also lop sided and did not sit in the car correctly.

Console 3:

This was my attempt to make the console long and connect with the front console. It was hard to do and was very unstable. Trashed it so fast.

Console 4:

Was so happy with this, until I decided to try to install it. The measurements from Rampage were wrong. Was not happy.

Console 4.5:

I chopped console 4 in half. Then created my own case for the PC, and married mine to the Rampage console. I was able to learn alot about make consoles when taking apart the bought one. I learned to make areas smooth by using plastic panels. The front was a b!+ch, in fact its not 100% finished yet. Will work on that tomorrow. Here are pix:

Now the way I married the two is by making the floor the area that it connects to. Basically I made the floor thick, then screws go into the sides to make solid. I left a hole in the front cabin for the card reader and the DVD Rom. The front cabin will be very small not really for storage at all. I may make it strictly for storing the DVD Rom, card reader and a DVD/CD holding case. The back cabin will be for stuff like controllers and web cam. The USB ports will be built into the cup holders. The middle row cup holders will have the USB plugs for PC 3 and 4 and two ports from the main PC. The rear cup holders will have ports for PC 5 and 6 and two for the main PC. At the front sides of the console will go USB ports for PC 1 and 2, and 2 USB ports for the main PC.

Tomorrow will be strictly making the contours for the front. Its the last and final thing, then the console goes to be upholstered.

HiJackZX1 · 09-07-2009, 12:51 PM

Today I started work, and finished the DVD Rom and Card reader tray. It was actually very simple. I created like a wedge system so that I can remove the tray if I need to install or uninstall the unit(s). First I created the tray part. Basically a L-shape piece with a hole for the DVD ROM. I then used thick, strong, double sided tape and attached it to the tray. I then attached the card reader on top of that. Here is the picture.

Once that was done, I added a support bar that would angle the wedge to the height I wanted.

Then I simply slide it in.

Basically when finished a piece of material will go over it to hide it. It turned out to not to be able to fit the CD book anymore, but I do plan to use it to store the headphones, which will be the ones you can fold up.

vincenttor · 09-07-2009, 05:18 PM

i love it what you are making
brings me on ideas
i must buy a bigger car haha
looking good there

HiJackZX1 · 09-08-2009, 10:46 PM

Well one project is done. I have been trying to find something that can make my DQP (the device that monitors all my cameras) to start off in 3 way mode. I decided to make a post: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/gene...circuitry.html. Some people threw around ideas, and then Curiosity chimed in and said one of his Solid State Timer Relays would handle the issue. I was very skeptical, but he guaranteed it would work. I received it today, connected it like he said, then plugged it in. First the unit turned on into 4 way mode, then 2 seconds later it went to 3 way mode and stayed there with no issues. So now my main rear screen will show the left, right and rear. I am also installing a second DQP that will always display 4 cameras, front, left, right and rear. These will be connected to a mini DVR that will record my driving and audio when the car is on. I'm glad this one is finally done!

I have also decided to rethink my powering for all devices. The DC-DC 15 watt PSU from OPUS will now power the two DQP units so they are on regulated power. All the other 5V devices will be connected to the two M4-ATX units. These devices include a Belkin Access Point (1 amp), D-Link Ethernet Switch (2 amps), Two 7-Port Hubs (1 amp each), Echo cancel card (3 amps?), and the mini DVR (1 amp). Between the two PSUs, this should be easy to power. It will require more wires though, but oh well........

HiJackZX1 · 09-13-2009, 08:17 PM

I found a flaw in my wiring for the camera system. Basically I had it on the radio harness for power. I have had to change the fuse alot with only the screen being on there. Now I have the DQP and the screen. In a few months I will be adding a second DQP, four cameras, a mini DVR, and 3 IR Illuminaters. That is wayyyyyyyyyyyyyy to much to have on the radio harness. A spot opened up on the electrical board I have, as far as 12V. So I added a relay. That relay will be connected to the 0 gauge line from the battery. basically the radio harness will trip the relay. That should keep anything from blowing out. I also ran the wire for all 5V devices that need to be powered by external PSU(s). I have several devices that have to be powered because I have basically maxed out my OPUS 320 when it comes to 5V. In the front I have two 7-port hubs, and the Phoenix Soho echo cancel card. All those will be connected to PSU 1. On PSU 2 will go a 3rd 7-port hub, a ethernet switch, and a Belkin Access Point. The two PSUs will be setup in dummy mode so as soon as power is applied they turn on and stay on, even if the PC units are switched off. On the 12V rails on the PSU(s) will go 3 PC units per PSU. Both PSU(s) will be controlled by the OPUS via a relay.

I also still have to install one of the two speakers I bought. I only had time to install one. I did make all the adapters for the doors so they would fit correctly. I am going to install the second in the rear door because I want to make sure the adapters fit. Then hopefully this week I can buy 1 more pair and install the third row speakers. I have to really do some mods to get them to sit right and not stick out so much that I can fold my rear seat down. Before I had to go really slow and make the speaker protectors flex, which scratched them really bad. I am going to make the speakers recessed a little more, so the seats are ok. I just hope that I can recess them because the speakers alot deeper then the ones I had before.

SjLucky · 09-15-2009, 01:10 PM

Dude Jack, I've been following your build since... the start?... Overall I must say "Killer" I feel your flow on your doing. Its kinda of funny that you started working on a console. I drive a 01 sport trac that when I bought it didn't have the full 60-40 back seat. Just the 40. I was like no big deal when the dealer cut me a deal. it belonged to a radio station in Alabama before I got it and they killed the interior. Which I planned on redoing anyway. But back to your project. I was looking at a console of sorts along the lines of you were looking at, even thought about building it... But then I got out the ruler and did some figuring. I can take another center console from a sport trac and graph it to the stock one.

Now for the reason why I'm posting. I was thinking about your project this morning and I came up with something. Have you thought about setting up a weight trigger in the passenager seats? Like lets say you a three buddies are heading to the bar for some brews. You get in and your buddies get in. You crank up the Durango, and the seat triggers tell the computer to turn on the thin clients in the back for two of your friends and one for the passenager up front. That way, you will be only running what is needed and the cool factor that your Durango and sense people's presence. Then go a step further by adding parnertal controls which could be done by just judging the weight and say if the person wieghts under 90 pounds it will only allow kids stuff to show on the display. Oh just thoughts to keep that wheel moving...

P.S. If you use it give me credit...

HiJackZX1 · 09-15-2009, 02:45 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by SjLucky

Dude Jack, I've been following your build since... the start?... Overall I must say "Killer" I feel your flow on your doing. Its kinda of funny that you started working on a console. I drive a 01 sport trac that when I bought it didn't have the full 60-40 back seat. Just the 40. I was like no big deal when the dealer cut me a deal. it belonged to a radio station in Alabama before I got it and they killed the interior. Which I planned on redoing anyway. But back to your project. I was looking at a console of sorts along the lines of you were looking at, even thought about building it... But then I got out the ruler and did some figuring. I can take another center console from a sport trac and graph it to the stock one.

Now for the reason why I'm posting. I was thinking about your project this morning and I came up with something. Have you thought about setting up a weight trigger in the passenager seats? Like lets say you a three buddies are heading to the bar for some brews. You get in and your buddies get in. You crank up the Durango, and the seat triggers tell the computer to turn on the thin clients in the back for two of your friends and one for the passenager up front. That way, you will be only running what is needed and the cool factor that your Durango and sense people's presence. Then go a step further by adding parnertal controls which could be done by just judging the weight and say if the person wieghts under 90 pounds it will only allow kids stuff to show on the display. Oh just thoughts to keep that wheel moving...

P.S. If you use it give me credit...

As far as the console, I am so glad the seats were 40/40, because I would have had to rethink everything. I will say the new console is done, it really just needs the upholstering. I am ****ed that the bought one didn't fit, but I honestly could not expect it to fit like a glove. Do you have a worklog? I would love to see it.

As far as the weight idea, I think thats an awesome idea. I am not sure if it will work with my idea because technically when they get into the car, the screen set with that specific passenger is set to the main PC by default. In order for them to see their personal PC, they hit a button which switches them over to their personal PC. The other thing is that what if you have loud mouth friends that constantly scream $h!+ out the window and get up to do it. The PC would be turning off and on. Also my seats are fold and tumble, and when they collapse into itself, that would also trick the PC and it will turn on. I just figured the PC units will be on all the time. When the main PC trips the relay, those PC units will never be off. The only reason I put on/off buttons was because I am using EWF and I dont need reset them. Also just in case the passenger is retarded and turns the PC 100% off, via the desktop. If I didn't have the switch, they wouldn't be able to turn it back on. I could use you idea for the screens though. When someone is sitting, the screen turns on, but when there is no one there the screen stays off.

Yesterday I installed the speaker in the rear door. It fits 100 better the the front door because the window track isn't in the way. I also had an issue with the door a long time ago, because the previous owner crashed the car, then replaced the door with an older model door which was different as far as insides. The rods in the doors for the door release and door locking switch are different. The door release matched, but the door lock tab was way different. i basically modded the rod, so I will not hear complaints about me having to unlock them.

So much to do, but so little time

SjLucky · 09-15-2009, 03:20 PM

No worklog. Im too chicken **** to let people see my handy work... that and Im still waiting for some stuff to come in.

HiJackZX1 · 09-15-2009, 03:23 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by SjLucky

No worklog. Im too chicken **** to let people see my handy work... that and Im still waiting for some stuff to come in.

Thats cool..... I cant wait to see your truck. I actually like the Sport Trac. I like it better then the Explorer full SUV. Maybe cause the truck has an identity crisis. It doesnt know if it wants to be a truck or SUV, lol.

HiJackZX1 · 09-16-2009, 12:16 PM

Yesterday I didn't really do much on the Car PC install, but I did redo a problem. One door was replaced by an older model Durango door. The hardware was different for certain things, like the little button tab that allows you to lock and unlock the door. I modded the hardware to fit, but when I would lock and unlock the door, the little tab didn't move out far enough. It did work, but the fact that it wasn't matching all the other doors started to slowly eat at me. I took apart the door and fixed the issue so now I am super happy. Finally people can let themselves out, and it matches like it should.

HiJackZX1 · 09-22-2009, 04:04 PM

Yesterday I got in all my fuse holders, 0 gauge grommets and 13 feet of 0 gauge cable. I decided to buy it from Ebay, because buying it from my local audio store was 7.95 a foot vs 3.95 a foot. I redid my engine again and basically set it up back to manufacturer specs, just with 0 gauge wire instead of the 8 gauge that was there. The car still seems to have issues, but only when the car is on. If I turn on the A/C blower and a blinker, the blower blows fine. If I turn the car on though, I hear the blower, but if I turn on the blinker, the blower hesitates. In all I think my alternator is f&*ked. Its been bad for awhile and I have been turning a blind eye to it. If my engine is hot because its a hot day, the car has all kinds of dimming and the AC blower acts weird when stopping. If its cool out side I have literally almost no issues. That right there tells me alternator. I have decided to put everything else on hold and save up for the alternator, which is $310.00. My battery seems to be fine, so I will leave that alone.

Anyways, the 0 gauge grommets are huge, making the hole for them was a b!+ch times 100. I ran the 0 gauge from the fuse near the battery, along some of the wires for the fuel pump. They are actually going along side the Chassis in a special holder that keeps the brake lines, fuel pump wiring and now the 0 gauge wire 100% safe. I was surprised that there was exactly enough room for it to fit. I then tie strapped it to the fuel pump wire split loom casing. Is nice and snug, and actually isn't noticeable. I have to pick up a fuse today so I can finish wiring under my seat and then see if the PC still works. I am sure this will be so much fun. Also I think I am allergic to copper. Every time I work with it I feel super f*&king sick. Been sick since yesterday when I started working with it.

HiJackZX1 · 09-24-2009, 07:32 PM

Today did my oil change, the car runs so much better. I notice that my gas mileage was going lower, so that means oil change. Usually I spend about $80.00 on it, but Pep Boys had a awesome sale, got everything at $42.00, so I'm happy.

I also did a tune up, toped off all my fluids and now the car runs much smoother.

I did inspect my alternator and its heavily rusted and corroding. I was wondering what the h3ll could cause this. I then remembered when my water pump exploded and I think most of the water went into the alternator, its the only thing I can think off that will cause that. I decided to next week, go ahead and buy the alternator. Its from powerbastards.com, its a universal 220+ AMP, and produces about 110 AMPS at idle, that is almost double what mine does at idle.

I was also passing by my local Metro PCS store, I went to Metro PCS a long time ago because I was not happy with Sprint. For $60.00 a month I get unlimited everything, but no fast internet, which I do not use alot anyways. They had a poster on the window that said Unlimited 3G internet for one low price, visit www.thedatajack.com. When I went to the site, I saw that it is only $39.99 a month. Like Metro PCS, you have to buy the equipment at full price. I am still trying to figure out if it is a CDMA device or a EDGE device. If it is EDGE, isn't that slower and less reliable then EVDO? I am going to do more research, I may go with this company, since its also no contract, so I can leave when I want, because once Comcast starts its 4G wireless service, I am going to them.

freeflashstuff · 09-24-2009, 07:51 PM

HiJack, It is a quad-band 2G/3G device, so I think it's safe to say it's EDGE/3G.
Also, from the FAQ page:

"How do I access the 3G network?
The Data Jack USB and with new devices are on the way. You will automatically connect to the 3G network. You will notice a 3G indicator on your Connection manager screen. If 3G is not available then you will still be in service with Edge or 2.5G service."

It looks like they cover my area! I'm looking into this now. Rumors around town say that we a due to get AT&T coverage here by the end of the year, but I haven't heard for sure yet. If that happens, I'm packing up and moving to them, and getting an iPhone 3GS so I can use tethering.

But this looks like it could do the job until then...

HiJackZX1 · 09-24-2009, 08:16 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by freeflashstuff

HiJack, It is a quad-band 2G/3G device, so I think it's safe to say it's EDGE/3G.
Also, from the FAQ page:

"How do I access the 3G network?
The Data Jack USB and with new devices are on the way. You will automatically connect to the 3G network. You will notice a 3G indicator on your Connection manager screen. If 3G is not available then you will still be in service with Edge or 2.5G service."

It looks like they cover my area! I'm looking into this now. Rumors around town say that we a due to get AT&T coverage here by the end of the year, but I haven't heard for sure yet. If that happens, I'm packing up and moving to them, and getting an iPhone 3GS so I can use tethering.

But this looks like it could do the job until then...

I am also going to go to them, I am just worried though because 3G isnt as fast i hear. I am also worried about data caps, meaning they impose limits on how much data you can use. i emailed them, so lets see what they say. $145.00 for the device is cheap. I also asked what network they are on, I think this is on T-Mobiles network, not AT&T. Lets see what they say, I will post the email for all to see.

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