2003 Durango SLT / Project HiJackZX1 CFSC / 56K= D@mn this $h!+ is gonna load slow! - Page 37

Tidder · 10-25-2009, 09:39 PM

Very discreet, nice placement.

HiJackZX1 · 10-27-2009, 12:43 PM

My install has become so over bloated, that powering all the stuff has become a big issue. My solution to it all was to upgrade all the stock wiring and put in a more powerful alternator. I had to go with a universal one, but it was so different, requires so many mods, and did not work with my PCM (ECU), so I would have had lots of warning lights. They do make a 160 amp alternator from the factory, so I decided to go ahead and upgrade to that. It will work in harmony with my car and provide extra power. Here is where over kill comes in, even though I am upgrading the alternator, it still isn't enough power. I looked at my engine and decided that I can fit a second alternator on to it. The second alternator will run on its own line and not interact with the first alternator. Reason is, because the PCM will see a huge jump in power and try to regulate it, and drop the voltage on the first alternator way to low that it causes damage to the PCM and other electrical devices. This of course means I have to install a second battery, which I should be able to fit in the engine bay also. The only problems I have is finding a builder to build the bracket, figuring out how to weave the serpentine belt, and having to change the hood. Yes, I would have to add a bulge to the hood to allow clearance. The alternator has to sit a little higher then I want, so I have to add a hump to allow the hood to close OK. I hope I can find someone to build this thing, because they also have to add a pulley to feed the belt correctly. I am confident that it will be more stable to add a alternator, rather then to replace my alternator. I have emailed Steve Meade, a master of multi alternator setups. His Tahoe has 4 alternators, producing a mega mind blowing 23,000 watts of power. Check this out here, he turns up the radio while a lady with a glass eye listens, it ends up popping it out her eye socket.

http://www.youtube.com/v/N1B-mQlQGFk&hl=en&fs=1&

rdholtz · 10-27-2009, 01:38 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

. . . His Tahoe has 4 alternators, producing a mega mind blowing 23,000 watts of power . . .

So, let's see, if we assume 12V, that's about 480A from each alternator. It would be interesting to see his wiring schematic, and to know what kind of alternators he's running.

They asked him if all that sound was affecting his hearing.

He said, "Pardon?"

HiJackZX1 · 10-27-2009, 02:59 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by rdholtz

So, let's see, if we assume 12V, that's about 480A from each alternator. It would be interesting to see his wiring schematic, and to know what kind of alternators he's running.

They asked him if all that sound was affecting his hearing.

He said, "Pardon?"

I think he has his setup in series. I guess Chevy doesn't make its ECU so picky. Also could be that the ECU doesn't regulate the Alternators power, it regulates its own. I didn't expect, and wasn't educated enough to know that I would have to do this type of work and that my car's ECU controls the alternator. i have no idea why Dodge would do such a thing. It does explain why only a small handful have done a dual setup. All the Durangos' I have seen though, are on the 5.9 engine, and they delete the A/C compressor. There is no way I am getting rid of my A/C, so I have to be very creative. I drew a picture of the current belt setup, and once again have an idea in my head of what to build, but I have to find a shop that can build it. It really sucks that my mind has so much issue translating ideas that are fully built in my head, into real life solutions. The new bracket would basically be like a arm, holding the alternator up over the original. I do not know if I should make it one solid unit, or 2 separate units. Install wise, 2 units would be easier, but structurally one piece would make sense.

HiJackZX1 · 10-29-2009, 11:58 AM

One thing that is very hard is adding the alternator to the serpentine belt system. I do not want to stress the belt out, causing a potential failure. Here is a picture of how it is now:

I at first came up with this:

As you can see Ive added the alternator 2 at the top, then 2 pulleys to tighten the belt to be sure the alternators have proper grip at all times. I started to become worried that the belts, now irregular angle would cause problems. When I designed this, I didn't take rotation into effect. I found this way could cause epic failure.

In the Dakota-Durango forums, a member came up with the idea of a 2 belt system. He said to leave the original belt looping alone, and simply add a second by bolting a second pulley to the current alternator. This would be the easiest to do. Only thing is, to get rid of any other issues, the alternators would have to go right on top of each other. This means it is higher up, and the bulge I have to make in the hood would be higher. Thats not to big of a deal though. Here is a picture of the second layout:

Only hurdle is the fact that I do not think they make belts this short. So I may have to find a longer one, and add a tension pulley to the setup. Once again though, this is still easier then the first one belt idea. I would also have to modify the clutch fan. Right now if I add a pulley, it will knock in the fan. Shaving a few inches off the blade should fix that though.

rdholtz · 10-29-2009, 12:52 PM

What's happening in the space above the power steering pump? Could you put the second alternator there, or roll it the other way so it's above the pulley that sits over the crank pulley? To go a little further out of the box with my thinking, what are the two pulleys off to the left of the illustration (on the car's right side)? Could the second alternator replace one of them?

To think further outside the box, if the fan is an issue, could you instead consider two or three electric fans rather than the clutch fan? The electric fans are switchable and thermostatically controllable, too. They can go on the front of the radiator if that makes more sense, leaving lots of space behind it for more gear.

sporty_drew · 10-29-2009, 05:29 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

Only thing is, to get rid of any other issues, the alternators would have to go right on top of each other.

What issues would it cause by not having them on top of each other?

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

I would also have to modify the clutch fan. Right now if I add a pulley, it will knock in the fan. Shaving a few inches off the blade should fix that though.

I'd get rid of the clutch fan all together like rdholtz said and use electric fans.

HiJackZX1 · 10-29-2009, 05:50 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by rdholtz

What's happening in the space above the power steering pump? Could you put the second alternator there, or roll it the other way so it's above the pulley that sits over the crank pulley? To go a little further out of the box with my thinking, what are the two pulleys off to the left of the illustration (on the car's right side)? Could the second alternator replace one of them?

To think further outside the box, if the fan is an issue, could you instead consider two or three electric fans rather than the clutch fan? The electric fans are switchable and thermostatically controllable, too. They can go on the front of the radiator if that makes more sense, leaving lots of space behind it for more gear.

In real life the power steering reservoir and a large tube is above the power steering pulley. I could hang the alternator over it, but it wouldn't be sturdy. Also routing the belt would be a b!+ch. I am going to put the alternator 2, in the middle of the car, like pictured here.

I went to autozone and asked for the shortest 6 ribbed belt. I was surprised they did carry one, but it was alittle longer then I liked. So I will have to add a tensioner pulley to get rid of any slack.

I have to do something like this:

This is the final design. I am glad the alternator will sit lower, so the bulge will be lower on the hood. Also that area over the water pump that rdholtz mentioned, will be used to add a pulley which will make the new belt nice and tight.

sporty_drew · 10-29-2009, 05:54 PM

So there would be no way to put the alt to the right of the current one because of mounting?

I'm just thinking I wouldn't want to mess with the hood. How much will it stick up into the hood with it mounted in the center?

HiJackZX1 · 10-29-2009, 06:06 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by sporty_drew

What issues would it cause by not having them on top of each other?

I'd get rid of the clutch fan all together like rdholtz said and use electric fans.

I thought it would have mounting issues, but I can use bolts from the A/C compressor and the bolts from the current alternator. I was doing it for the belt, but now that I have the belt, I can see that sitting the alternator to the middle of the engine is ok.

I am investigating the clutch fan removal idea. The car already has a electric fan that works very well. Alot of Dakota / Durango owners remove it. Thing is, alot of them live in lower climates. My car cools so well that it sits lower then half way, which is good in FL. If it goes up to the middle, then I will be happy, but anything else will make me nervous.

Quote: Originally Posted by sporty_drew

So there would be no way to put the alt to the right of the current one because of mounting?

I'm just thinking I wouldn't want to mess with the hood. How much will it stick up into the hood with it mounted in the center?

Correct. If I put it in the middle, it will be fine. A special arm will go to the right side with a pulley to tighten the belt.

The hood will need be modified very very slightly with the alt now going in the middle. Just a tiny little hump. Now if I would have done the alts on top of each other, the hump would have been very very very big. Now though its back to small.

HiJackZX1 · 11-01-2009, 01:55 PM

I had to take the clutch fan out in order for my new belt setup to fit. It was really stuck in there. Basically the clutch fan is connected to the water pump pulley which turns the same way that I have to turn the nut to get it off. I tried to do this by using screw drivers in the holes to jam the pulley. This of course failed badly. I then decided to go to home depot, by the rod that Turbo287, a user from dakota-durango forums, used. Drilled holes, added bolts and that was that. The clutch bolt was really jammed on there. I had use all of my body weight to turn it. Then after that I had to really use strength to get it off. I am glad I found this thread because the tool was very helpful.

Thanx so much for the useful info.

I live in Miami FL, so I thought it would be in my best intrestest to change the thermostat to a 180. I did so and the car actually runs cooler then when I had the clutch fan and 195 thermostat in. Before the temp was alittle less then half from the middle. Now though it sits closer to the white line near the cold side. I will change the fan in future, but for now it doesnt seem to be needed.

vincenttor · 11-02-2009, 01:14 PM

those are 100Amp alternators ?
i have seen some cars with 5 alternators or more
but doesnt it stick out your hood ? isnt it to high
i hope its going to work for you looking good allready

HiJackZX1 · 11-02-2009, 05:45 PM

well the stock alt is 136A. I am upgrading to a 160A alternator. The new alternator is 220A. So thats 380A max. the pc and all the other stuff is run strictly from the 220A. Other cars have more room and better engine layout. the durango doesnt, so i have to be creative. i think thats why people dont do this upgrade on this model.

HiJackZX1 · 11-11-2009, 09:15 PM

I finally posted pictures of how I want my car. I cant decide 100% so I made a poll to help me.

PLEASE VOTE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/off-...-lots-pix.html

sporty_drew · 11-11-2009, 10:11 PM

Looked at them, went to vote, but you didn't have an other choice for us conventional guys

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