2003 Durango SLT / Project HiJackZX1 CFSC / 56K= D@mn this $h!+ is gonna load slow!

HiJackZX1 · 05-11-2008, 07:17 PM

The PLAN:

Was to create a super multimedia system that can trash any luxury car in features. Also to give all passengers something to do. I also wanted superior sound quality. The install had to be OEM looking, which was a challenge with all the cr@p I have smushed into this truck. I hope that you guys like how I did things, and comment if there is something I can do better.

The COMPONENTS:

1 IEI Kino 690-S1 MoBo
2 Opus 320 PSU
2 Opus 15W PSU
2 Centon Sodim RAM 2GB ea
1 Toshiba 2.5 250GB HDD
1 Patriot 2.5 32GB SSD
2 Startech 7 port hubs
1 Targus 4 port hub
1 XM Direct w/ Mitch's Serial adapter
1 Visteon HD Radio w/ Mitch's Serial adapter
1 ODB Pro ODB2 Serial
1 BU-353 GPS
1 LOK TMPS reciever
1 Mo-Co-So BT dongle
1 Zonet Wi-Fi dongle
1 C Media 7.1 Virtual Surround Sound dongle
1 Sprint Merlin Express card Modem, via USB to Express card adapter
7 Lilliput EBY701 Touch screens *4 still need to be purchased
1 Windows Media Center Remote
1 Arm rest keypad
6 HP T5510 Thin Clients
1 D-Link Ethernet Switch

More to list!

The NAME:

HiJack is based on a truck for a game called Ridge Racer 6, but also featured in Rage Racer for PS1, Ridge Racer 1 & 2 for PSP, and Ridge Racer 7 for PS3, all which I own. (Ridge Racer is my favorite game.) The ZX1 is my name shortened and the 1 means 1st project. Since my truck is a SUV, I had to make the name diffrent then just HiJack, otherwise fans of the game would state the obvious, that the HiJack is a truck not a SUV. The whole outside is going to be restyled to make it look closer to the HiJack.

Fact you should know:

The Durango is based on the Jeep Grand Cherokee platform.... To get to the back you flip a lever and a seat in the middle row tumbles forward to allow the 3rd row passengers to go in and out.

HiJackZX1 · 05-11-2008, 07:17 PM

USB Devices:

------------------------------
ON BOARD PORTS
------------------------------
1) GPS
2) Express Card Adapter / Sprint Merlin Card
3) 7 Port Hub 1
4) 7 Port Hub 2
5) TPMS
6) 7.1 Virtual Surround Sound Card
7) Mo-Co-So BT Dongle
8) N/B/G Wifi Card

-----------------------------
7 Port Hub 1 (powered)
-----------------------------
1) Touch screen 1 / Keyboard 1
2) Touch screen 2 / Keyboard 2
3) Touch screen 3 / Keyboard 3
4) Touch screen 4 / Keyboard 4
5) Touch screen 5 / Keyboard 5
6) Touch screen 6 / Keyboard 6
7) USB Relay

---------------------------
7 Port Hub 2 (powered)

---------------------------
1) Mitch's Audio Selector
2) Windows Media Remote
3) 4 Port USB Hub 1
4) 4 Port USB Hub 2
5) PPC
6)
7)

--------------------------
4 Port Hub 1
--------------------------
All ports for thumb drives, controllers, iPods, and anything that is not permanently connected.

--------------------------
4 Port Hub 2
--------------------------
1) Touchscreen
2) Free
3) Free
4) Free

Wiring and wiring install:

I had so much wiring that I had to rethink my install for version 2... In version 1, everything was to go into the center console, but because my install was starting to get confusing and expanding, I decided to trash the crappy MoBo and go for a powerful Dual Core.... Pictures below show the cabling from start to finish.

I decided to put all electrical connects under the passenger seat. The last picture with the panel on the floor is the finish result. Every connection is now in and works as it should. Even the wires for the stuff i do not have yet are installed.

HiJackZX1 · 05-11-2008, 07:18 PM

Last weekend I decided that the sunvisors would not look good, and would limit the sunvisors. They wouldn't be able to serve their true function of blocking out the sun. So I decided to make new cases that fit on the top area of my dash. By placing them on the top, I avoid having to make major cuts and mods to the dash its self. I ordered a dremel (recieved), I am just waiting on the 10 sheets of 12x12 ABS plastic and the dremel circular saw bits. I decided to make a mock up out of card board and clay. This is a crude representation, the new one will be much more advanced and much more OEM. These were done simply to get an idea of the design I was going with.

Driver Side:

1.

2.

3.

4.

Passenger Side:

1.

2.

3.

4.

HiJackZX1 · 05-11-2008, 07:19 PM

Well today I cut the holes in the secondary dash (the dash area underneath the dash plate), and I ended up not having to cut the defrost ducts like I thought I would. Infact the cuts are right next to the ducts, if I would have been even 1 cm off I would have cut into the ducts. I have tons of room to put the electronics. I managed to find a company that sells a 12 inch ZIF jumper cable for the video ribbon, but the y want $25.00 per cable and I need 2. I told them that was a rip off and if they could lower the cost since I got two 8 inch for $6.35 each. Lets see what they say.

Nermin · 05-12-2008, 10:25 PM

hahahahahaha, you go Jack - nice to see you back here man

I just got Dynatron 660 which I was waiting on to complete my bazel - pictures will follow soon

HiJackZX1 · 05-13-2008, 06:18 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Nermin

hahahahahaha, you go Jack - nice to see you back here man

I just got Dynatron 660 which I was waiting on to complete my bazel - pictures will follow soon

HEHE, thanks for resubscribing.... I figured rather then make my worklog a day by day thing, I would just do it towards the end of my build. Im waiting on a welder to create a support frame for my 15 inch.... Turns out it will cause my roof to sag. Problem is he has to find a way to do it with taking up space so the AC vent ducts can go back up. Also all the electronics that were supposed to be hidden in the roof, had to be moved down, so it means I had to extend everything. I still have to find a place on the wire connection board for the TPMS board, which I got yesterday. If I want to add anything in the future, it is impossible. I have used up all my room, but as a note, I think I have installed just about everything when it comes to the car PC market, lol.

Nermin · 05-13-2008, 07:27 PM

I hear you man - keep on going!

rdholtz · 05-15-2008, 08:02 AM

I wonder -- some cars come with dual visors; maybe there's a way to find a Dodge setup like that and transplant it. Or perhaps run two completely separate sets of visors: one for sun and one for fun.

HiJackZX1 · 05-15-2008, 01:00 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by rdholtz

I wonder -- some cars come with dual visors; maybe there's a way to find a Dodge setup like that and transplant it. Or perhaps run two completely separate sets of visors: one for sun and one for fun.

See the only issue with that is that the EBY701s are to thick. If they were thin, then a dual visor setup would work.... I know this new idea is way more work, but Im hoping I can have a professional do it. The only hurtle I can see is that there are 2 intact vents on the corners and the ducts run along the top of the dash on the inside, i may have to relocate them.

Bxsteez · 06-16-2008, 12:09 PM

Nice build so far. Ur budget is exactly where mine is lol.. .I guess there is no way to map out a decent budget.

HiJackZX1 · 06-16-2008, 02:35 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Bxsteez

Nice build so far. Ur budget is exactly where mine is lol.. .I guess there is no way to map out a decent budget.

No there isnt, especially if your a Techno Sexual and have to have everythingggggg, lol. I think that when designing a Car PC, you take your figure, then times it by 3, and that is what you will spend. I only have 2 more things to spend money on, and thats the redo of my seat, which is about $100.00 or less since i did most of the work already, and the dash front and top, which is going to be alot since the top screens have to be done from scratch....

Bxsteez · 06-16-2008, 03:29 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

No there isnt, especially if your a Techno Sexual and have to have everythingggggg, lol. I think that when designing a Car PC, you take your figure, then times it by 3, and that is what you will spend. I only have 2 more things to spend money on, and thats the redo of my seat, which is about $100.00 or less since i did most of the work already, and the dash front and top, which is going to be alot since the top screens have to be done from scratch....

Yea i thought i had everything till i saw your build lol... I have to pay for most my fabrication so thats whats been kicking my cost up. The electrical stuff i've been able to handle so far at least but then again my comp isn't even up and working since i don't have my motherboard yet.

Kimota · 06-16-2008, 04:06 PM

Hey HijackZX1,

Glad to see your making good progress, looks like you'll be done (or close to it) in time for the meet.

Sorry to double post (also posted on the ps3 keyboard thread) here's the answer to your question about using autohotkey for volume

The script below is an example but it remaps volume control,mute/unute to f5,f6,f7 this should work for you, just change the f keys (functions keys) to the corresponding keys on your handheld laser pointer.

f5::Send {Volume_Down}
f6::Send {Volume_Up}
f7::Send {Volume_Mute}

HiJackZX1 · 06-16-2008, 06:51 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Kimota

Hey HijackZX1,

Glad to see your making good progress, looks like you'll be done (or close to it) in time for the meet.

Sorry to double post (also posted on the ps3 keyboard thread) here's the answer to your question about using autohotkey for volume

The script below is an example but it remaps volume control,mute/unute to f5,f6,f7 this should work for you, just change the f keys (functions keys) to the corresponding keys on your handheld laser pointer.

f5::Send {Volume_Down}
f6::Send {Volume_Up}
f7::Send {Volume_Mute}

Thanks Kimota, I forgot all about that post.... now I dont have to remember were it was, just go to my work log. I am really hoping I can go to the meet. I am having some other set backs with work, family and finacial issues, so I am hoping I will be somewhat done and able to attend the meet. I really wanted to at least have the seat and PC done.... The dash I know im going to have to wait on, since its really pricey since its so custum.

Quote:

Yea i thought i had everything till i saw your build lol... I have to pay for most my fabrication so thats whats been kicking my cost up. The electrical stuff i've been able to handle so far at least but then again my comp isn't even up and working since i don't have my motherboard yet.

I have the same issue, I was at least going to try to do the seat, but I said no, I dont want it to look cr@ppy. I did make the mounting bracket for the PC, I even went and found the same fabric to match the seat so that when I take the seat to be done, all they have to do is stitch it up, no material for them to charge me more for. The dash on the other hand, as stated above is custum, and I cant do it. For the front of the dash I was quoted $150.00 which is OK, but for the top, its about $250 to $450.

roflcopter · 07-22-2008, 02:15 PM

Sorry about posting in the other thread...

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

Tell me were it says not to. If you look under your car you will notice a ton of electrical wiring wrapped in split loom. If you notice alot of it is thicker guage wire. When I took apart my interior to run audio wire, there was not one wire above under 16 guage except the ground points. Abviously they did that for a reason. So why on earth would i run a thick 4 guage wire through the inside? I dont like having to worry about crimps and other fire hazards. There isnt really anything under the car to catch fire because its all metal.

PS: Can we please focus back on question, if you want to discuss my cabling techniques then do it in my worklog, dont steer this one to a subject that it isnt inteaded for.

I personally wouldn't risk putting the power cable to the elements like that. If you run over something that can yank on it and rip at it, cause a short and some bad problems (ie... fire). I would just be very careful in ensuring that it is completely snug against the chassis. It just makes me uneasy because the chassis is your ground point and to run it along that scares me, personally...

You make a good point in that there is nothing to really catch fire underneath, but dont be too certain with a fuel tank, greases and oils down there.

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