2007 Ford Mustang

UrbanLegend · 07-01-2008, 08:53 PM

Been around the boards for a number of months now reading and learning about the science of Carputers. I think nows a perfect time to start my worklog. I hope to make a valuable contribution and learn from any mistakes along the way. Without further ado here goes...

Ok so first off here is a list of hardware i've bought so far to begin with.

Mac Mini $300
Logitech® diNovo Min $100
MacPac $29
Carnetix p2140 $135
Lilliput 8" $239
HippoHi-fi Bloat 24-bit USB DAC $187
I'm no engineer although i am pretty handy, so here's what i have in mind. I want my install to look as close to factory as possible, so i've picked the center console to install the Mac Mini in, but it wont be an ez feat to accomplish since i will be trying something i havent quite seen on the boards yet. This is my center console, so what i want to do is cut open a small section in the back in order to slide the Mini in. So in essence the front of the Mini will be facing the backseat and the cables and wiring will be inside the center glovebox. I'm going to have to hack up the center console a lot, but i'm willing to do it. The only thing is that i haven't decided on how to do this. I pretty much have any tool i could likely use for the job and my own workshop, so i just need ideas. Since, i'm starting tomorrow can anyone offer some ideas???

rdholtz · 07-01-2008, 10:49 PM

Take some pictures of the disassembled console, give some measurements, and we'll have a better idea what you're facing.

Tomorrow may be the "official" beginning, but don't be in a hurry to hack away. Planning and measuring and pondering still count, and they can save you lots of grief later.

UrbanLegend · 07-02-2008, 12:50 AM

I'm thinking of constructing one of these Mini holders as a frame to install in the center console. It could be done using 4mm wood sheets as the material. A frame would be much better than simply cutting a hole to slide the Mini. So this would double as a harness and frame.

P.S. will take measurements tomorrow, thanks for the heads-up.

colin · 07-02-2008, 02:04 PM

Why do you have to hack it up? I wanted to put my computer in the center console as well but mine's HUGE. Your computer is small, it could most likely fit right in if you simply removed the inner plastic piece (assuming it's the same as an '01). Run the cables along the floor under the center section and there wont be a problem. Don't try to get anything in the trunk though, the carpet on the center beam in the rear seats is SKIN TIGHT, you'll have no fun ripping that up.

UrbanLegend · 07-03-2008, 04:01 PM

Colin you bring up an interesting point. After evaluating both options i think the Mini could fit in the cubby box with few modifications. Originally i chose to hack up the console in order to avoid the inconvenience of taking out the Mini everytime i wanted to insert a CD in the optical drive. By cutting open hole in the back of the console i would have avoided this, but at the expense of the factory look of the console. Take a look at this picture...

Currently the Mini can't fit inside completely without hacking up some of the black paneling. I'm a little concerned about overheating, as it can get pretty hot inside my car in the summer imagine in there, maybe i will have to add an exhaust fan.

Secondly, I want to integrate the Lilliput housing case to my radio bezel, but ran into some minor problems. Since im using the 8" lilliput the back side of the Faceplate has some protrusions sticking out. Check out pictures..

I want to go from this...

To this...

But ran into this...

I'm thinking i should use a Dremel tool to hack off those limbs in the back and use epoxy to attach the casing. Of course i want it to look flush so i will have to take additional steps, if anyone cares to chime in some ideas feel free.

UrbanLegend · 07-04-2008, 01:40 AM

How long is it suppose to take to have a post approved?

meddler · 07-04-2008, 06:02 AM

until a mod approves it. It could take 5mins, it could take a day

monkeyracer · 07-04-2008, 09:31 AM

Those little tabs on the sides should come off pretty easy with a set of wire cutters. But in removing those, are you going to lose any stability putting it back in?

As far as epoxy is concerned, look at the sticky here about fabricating the piece to look oem. There are some great products and techniques discussed there. I personally use ABS cement since both pieces on my dash are ABS. Check out my worklog to see what I'm talking about.

If you go either route, it would only take a small amount to get the job done. I'd tape the front of the bezel (with screen removed of course) and apply either the epoxy (dries pretty quick) or the ABS cement (takes a little longer) along the back edges. This will make sure it's solid. Then once that side is dry, remove the tape and apply a small amount in the gaps between the dash piece and bezel, allow it to dry and sand down to a nice smooth shape. You'll have to be pretty careful around the button area, the cement is the same chemical as the bezel, so any cement that gets in contact with it will start to bond with it pretty quick. It would be a good idea to tape off that area when you work on that part.

Good luck, keep us posted with your progress.

Xargon321 · 07-06-2008, 10:20 PM

i dont think you can get the whole lilliput case in the dash without a lot of hacking, those are alignment pins so that the faceplate will line up properly i know you have the screen already but if you check out a thread in by blk02si he put a comp in his 06 stang and you might get some ideas how to mount the screen

UrbanLegend · 07-13-2008, 04:03 AM

Ok so i finally got the bezel for my 8" lilliput integrated into my stock double din faceplate, thanks monkey for the thread.

Before going under the knife...

Me taking measurements...

The job is halfway done...

I consider this the fun part. The dynatron box is the 2 part epoxy i used to attach the screen bezel with my stock double din faceplate. This process is pretty straightforward, just follow the mixing instructions in the box and apply. Add several layers, depending on how much you want to build it up.

Make sure you tape off the buttons so you wont get this stuff on them. By the way this stuff reeks and dries very quick.

Next set of pictures will include the sanding, painting, and finished product. By the way will be using 36 grit to rough sand, should it be wet or dry? Will follow up with 100 grit, then 400grit or 600grit. I've never worked with this material, so any tips are welcomed.

If you notice on the pictures you will see that i cut very high up on the faceplate. The three openings are for the hazard lights, cigarette lighter and a dummy button. The only button i really want to reattach is the hazard lights, so that means i need to either close off the other two or find a constructive use for them, any ideas?

rdholtz · 07-13-2008, 08:39 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by UrbanLegend

If you notice on the pictures you will see that i cut very high up on the faceplate. The three openings are for the hazard lights, cigarette lighter and a dummy button. The only button i really want to reattach is the hazard lights, so that means i need to either close off the other two or find a constructive use for them, any ideas?

I think you could close that area off and leave it smooth. It's nice to have a USB port or two, but right above the screen is probably poor placement. You might want to read Monkeyracer's thread, where we had some discussion about that area of his dash, starting in post #20. He's done some fine work on his bezel.

UrbanLegend · 07-15-2008, 12:38 AM

so after going back and forth about whether to close off the holes or not i decided it was best to retain the factory look. Since i expanded the gap in my faceplate to accommodate the 8" lilliput bezel i had to relocate the three openings a little higher in order to fit the three buttons and the cig lighter.

here i am getting ready for surgery.

Almost there just a little higher...

And this is the final fit...the buttons fit kinda snug so i will sand a bit more off and smooth out the edges, also there are some gaps around the buttons, sanding around those areas would only expand the gap, so instead i will use some dynatron to fill in those gaps.

Question: I was using 40grit to rough sand the dynatron around the bezel, but i may have taken to much off, so i re-applied the epoxy to the low spots. MY QUESTION IS when do you know it is time to move on to a finer paper.

monkeyracer · 07-15-2008, 09:39 AM

I'm glad you decided to keep the stock buttons, I think you'll appreciate it a lot better than jamming some PC peripherals there.

With the dynatron, there's not an easy way to tell when you are done with the sanding, you've just got to check it with your eyes, and feeling the surface with your fingers. When you start sanding into the original pieces, then you know you are there. You'll usually need to do about three applications or so to get it close. The first sets up the bond between the two pieces, the second fills in the majority of the shape, and layers after that are just fine tuning the low spots.

To fill in the gaps by the buttons, you should cover the buttons in tape, make sure there is no exposed plastic, and then apply the dynatron in the gap. The taped buttons will act as a mold, and the dynatron won't bond to masking tape. (Two layers at least.)

It's looking good so far. Keep it up.

Hessian · 07-15-2008, 02:02 PM

Nice work, I did something similar:

http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/newb...c-install.html

UrbanLegend · 07-16-2008, 01:20 PM

Hey Hessian, yours is actually one of the first logs i read on the boards.

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