Project Turtle: 1993 Toyota Tercel/56K=FAIL - Page 27

freeflashstuff · 07-12-2009, 01:09 PM

Cool. Now I can think about building my fan "box" and mini-fridge.

freeflashstuff · 07-12-2009, 08:05 PM

Mini-fridge = Major mini-project (WUT?!)

Confusing, isn't it?

I am trying to do this project, but with my glovebox. To do so, I have to rip my dash apart again(1st for the flasher, now for the fridge. Saul says I won't, I'll have to check my book again to check. If this goes as planned, I will have a mini-fridge that holds 3 cans or (maybe) 2 bottles in there... Now Saul wants one in his Ram...

Xygar · 07-13-2009, 12:16 PM

Man, if it works out you have to post detailed instructions on how you turned your glovebox into a fridge... that would be sweet!

freeflashstuff · 07-13-2009, 12:57 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Xygar

Man, if it works out you have to post detailed instructions on how you turned your glovebox into a fridge... that would be sweet!

I am using the instructions I linked to in the previous post, I'm just adapting them to fit my glovebox. I will post pix of everything I do. I am going to thoroughly enjoy this mini-project.

freeflashstuff · 07-15-2009, 02:32 AM

Started on the glovebox today. Got the hole cut in the back, and the fan/heatsink mounted, waiting on the silicone to dry. Pix are uploading. I'll put them in a new post so I can go into detail about them. Maybe I can explain most of my steps...

freeflashstuff · 07-15-2009, 02:58 AM

I skipped the pix on removing the glovebox as the process varies from vehicle to vehicle. After I pulled the glovebox out, I started lining it with weatherstripping insulation. (not the neatest job in the world but...)

I then took 2 CPU heatsink/fan assemblies and thermal pasted them to the Peltier. (forgot pix) After I used the thermal paste, I used silicone caulking to glue the 3 pieces together.

I then took the fans and the leads from the Peltier and the breadboard I picked up at the RatShack and soldered them together.

I discovered I should be able to have 4 bottles or a 6-pack at a time inside.

I used 2 lantern batteries to test it all.

I cut the holes in the back of the glovebox and fitted the assembly.(It's thin plastic in my case.)

After I test-fitted everything, I siliconed it in place. Now, it needs to dry so I can test it tomorrow...

rdholtz · 07-15-2009, 07:15 AM

Very interesting project.

The little Peltier system can only remove so much heat; the easier you make it for the Peltier system, the more successful your compartment will be at keeping things cool.

So I think you may want to reconsider your choice of insulation. The point of the insulation is to cover the entire inside of the cooled compartment, so heat doesn't come into it from anywhere. Leaving gaps provides access for heat. Similarly, leaving entire panels uncovered means they become sources of rapid heat gain; you'll want to completely cover all sides and the bottom of the compartment.

If your glove box is like mine, the top is open. You'll want a way to keep it closed, or it'll be like leaving the refrigerator door open: heat will come in the top, or cool air will go out. The guy who did the Corolla had a lid on his console, and you'll want one on your glovebox. A simple plastic panel on yours -- with insulation on the inside -- would do just fine: open glovebox, lift lid, get beverage. I don't think the lid has to fit tightly; I notice the original project designer decided he needed a few airholes to allow heat to escape. Since hot air rises, a few gaps around the lid might be just perfect.

Neat project -- good luck with it!

freeflashstuff · 07-15-2009, 08:48 AM

My glovebox is closed. The only holes are where the clip for the door latch is, and the area where the door meets the glovebox with the hinges. I was considering like a spray-type insulation, but I didn't find anything that was cheap and easy.

rdholtz · 07-15-2009, 11:07 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by freeflashstuff

My glovebox is closed. The only holes are where the clip for the door latch is, and the area where the door meets the glovebox with the hinges. I was considering like a spray-type insulation, but I didn't find anything that was cheap and easy.

Good that the glovebox is closed.

The problem with the spray foam insulation is control; you can't get a nice, smooth surface without putting in a barriern, and you have to get just the right amount in so it doesn't spread all over and make a huge mess.

freeflashstuff · 07-15-2009, 11:44 AM

What other alternatives do I have, then? I'm using the weatherstripping tape, but there has to be a better way....

rdholtz · 07-15-2009, 12:02 PM

There are some pretty good foam tape selections at home centers, and maybe hardware stores. Wide strips go in best because they allow more control. Try to find the stuff used by the originator of the idea -- it seems to have worked for him. The weatherstripping tape is thicker and softer; his looked thinner and firmer, so it's probably less likely to tear and degrade.

If you want an interesting project, get some of the urethane insulating foam -- Tuff Stuff is a brand, I think. Make a box the shape of your glovebox, but smaller, so there's a half-inch (13mm) gap between the box and the glovebox. Reinforce the box so it'll retain its shape under the pressure of the foam; filling it with layers of corrugated board or -- even better -- styrofoam works well. Cover it with Saran Wrap or something that will release. Spray some of the foam into the bottom of the glovebox, and set your liner in at the right depth, and fill around the sides; don't fill all the way, because that stuff expands a bunch. Just be sure it comes up to the top (if it doesn't, you can backfill later). Let it cure, pull -- or cut away -- the liner, and trim the excess foam. Bingo: you have a sealed, insulated container with an open top. The foam cuts nicely with a knife, so you can make openings as necessary for fan and switch and whatever else you need.

One thing to be careful about is that the glovebox maintains its outer shape. If the foam pushes the sides out, it won't go back in the dash.

I'd experiment on something first. But be ready with your glovebox before you do the test. Once you start using the foam, you'll likely have to use it up that day or it will cure in the tube.

freeflashstuff · 07-15-2009, 12:07 PM

As HiJack keeps telling me, I'm probably overthinking this, but adapting a styrofoam cooler to the glovebox might work a lot better than the weatherstripping.

EDIT: RDholtz's idea works too, except I can't buy TuffStuff because you have to be 18 in NM because some stupid people ruined Sharpies and epoxy and spray paint, etc.

HiJackZX1 · 07-15-2009, 01:39 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by freeflashstuff

As HiJack keeps telling me, I'm probably overthinking this, but adapting a styrofoam cooler to the glovebox might work a lot better than the weatherstripping.

EDIT: RDholtz's idea works too, except I can't buy TuffStuff because you have to be 18 in NM because some stupid people ruined Sharpies and epoxy and spray paint, etc.

When i said that I meant when it came to your CarPC, your actually on the right track with the fridge idea. This gave me an idea, which is over kill, but my car literally has 2 air conditioning systems, the front has one, then the rear has its own dedicated A/C. It sits in one of the rear side panels. I am wondering if I can tap into the coolant lines and add a radiator type thing to them to some air tight case. If not I can be lazy and just buy a cooler with built in cooler and have it plugged in, but molded to the interior.

freeflashstuff · 07-15-2009, 04:54 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by rdholtz

If you want an interesting project, get some of the urethane insulating foam -- Tuff Stuff is a brand, I think. Make a box the shape of your glovebox, but smaller, so there's a half-inch (13mm) gap between the box and the glovebox. Reinforce the box so it'll retain its shape under the pressure of the foam; filling it with layers of corrugated board or -- even better -- styrofoam works well. Cover it with Saran Wrap or something that will release. Spray some of the foam into the bottom of the glovebox, and set your liner in at the right depth, and fill around the sides; don't fill all the way, because that stuff expands a bunch. Just be sure it comes up to the top (if it doesn't, you can backfill later). Let it cure, pull -- or cut away -- the liner, and trim the excess foam. Bingo: you have a sealed, insulated container with an open top. The foam cuts nicely with a knife, so you can make openings as necessary for fan and switch and whatever else you need.

One thing to be careful about is that the glovebox maintains its outer shape. If the foam pushes the sides out, it won't go back in the dash.

I'd experiment on something first. But be ready with your glovebox before you do the test. Once you start using the foam, you'll likely have to use it up that day or it will cure in the tube.

Quote: Originally Posted by freeflashstuff

...adapting a styrofoam cooler to the glovebox might work a lot better than the weatherstripping.

Quote: Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

...your actually on the right track with the fridge idea.

I have my new plan for the mini-fridge! I am going with a combination of the above. May be slightly overkill, but... I'm using RDHoltz's idea of using the Tuff Stuff, but styrofoam on top of the Tuff Stuff to further insulate the glove box.

rdholtz · 07-15-2009, 05:05 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by freeflashstuff

I have my new plan for the mini-fridge! I am going with a combination of the above. May be slightly overkill, but... I'm using RDHoltz's idea of using the Tuff Stuff, but styrofoam on top of the Tuff Stuff to further insulate the glove box.

That should be pretty nice: build your styrofoam to the right shape, glue it together, and then add a very thin layer of the foam to adhere the styrofoam to the glovebox and fill the voids.

It would probably be good to be sure the styrofoam joints are well sealed, or the foam will try to flow inside the styrofoam liner.

And I'd bet you should still brace the insides of the styrofoam, or the Tuff Stuff will bow the sides in.

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