Project Turtle: 1993 Toyota Tercel/56K=FAIL - Page 35

freeflashstuff · 08-07-2009, 10:02 PM

How much?

HiJackZX1 · 08-07-2009, 10:07 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by freeflashstuff

How much?

Just pay for shipping.... $4.95 for the flat rate box.

freeflashstuff · 08-09-2009, 07:43 PM

I got the problem with the OPUS fixed. The hot glue thing didn't work, so I took a power switch header extension cable I had laying around and used it to extend the OPUS' cable from the OPUS to the MB, and hot glued it that way. That solved the problem. I still haven't got the Turtle washed and cleaned out yet. If the skies are clear after church, then I'm gonna go wash/clean/vacuum it.

freeflashstuff · 08-11-2009, 01:05 AM

I got my UniBus adapter in today, along with my converter boxes from FreeDTVShop.com. With the coupon, they were free, even with shipping. One went to my dad, the other two are mine to play with. *evil grin* I have already taken one of them apart and extended the IR receiver.

Now I just need a way to power it. It needs clean, regulated 12VDC up to 1 Amp, but I don't want to power it from my OPUS.

I also started having battery problems today. I went to the local coffee shop to have coffee and study with a friend, I was there two hours, and when I got ready to leave, the battery was dead. I noticed I hadn't shut my door completely and decided my dome light had run the battery down. Then I realized my dome light(and added floor lights, for that matter) are LEDs. They don't consume enough juice to run a car battery down in two hours. I got a jump start from my dad(gave him his converter box) and made it home. I FUBAR'd my Windoze install the other day(OPUS shut off in the middle of hibernate; missing file errors and the like. Repaired last night). I went out to test it, and the battery was fine until I tried to start the car; then, dead battery. I figure the AUX battery is draining the main battery since it can't hold a charge anymore. I pulled the fuse(s) to the AUX battery setup, I hope that solves the problem. If that is the problem, then I will get a new battery or look for a better way.

HiJackZX1 · 08-11-2009, 01:14 PM

Also, I am sending out the GLI today...... I was running behind with work and did not make it to the post office.

ozzy71 · 08-11-2009, 09:59 PM

I have some questions about your battery failure... My first impression it that this is a coincidence... and you really have had a primary battery failure. Also, since you drove the car to lunch—it would have had the alternator charging the batteries the whole drive. Since you were able to drive the car home, the alternator is working fine… otherwise all the electrical gizmos…. Like fuel pump, ignition, turn signals and A/C would have caused the car to stall out…. God forbid that you had the headlights and radio on!!

But, since you have changed a few items in the electrical system… lets see what we can find?

If you have a multi meter, lets check the static battery load, with everything off:

To do this, set it to DC amps… remove the ground cable, connect the meter between the ground post and the ground. This measures how much load is on the battery. I’d expect around 1.5 – 2 amps max…

Let me know what you find, and I’ll gladly help you troubleshoot further if you need it!!

freeflashstuff · 08-11-2009, 10:09 PM

I don't have anything on hand right now because I'm not home but I'll check it when I get home. I believe the AUX battery drained the main one because I had power up until I switched the key, then my lights dimmed and I had a dead battery. The AUX battery will not take a charge period. It has dead cells. I disconnected it completely.

HiJackZX1 · 08-11-2009, 10:21 PM

See thats scary to me....... I think all you have to do is upgrade the alternator, put in a deep cell battery and you should be fine. How often are you honestly going to run the PC without the engine for long periods of time. I plan to use mine in shows and Im not even adding a second battery.

PS: Could it be your relay system is setup wrong? I mean if the engine is off, the secondary battery does not have access to the first because of the relay.

freeflashstuff · 08-12-2009, 12:04 AM

Yes, if the ignition is off, the batteries are indeed separate. But when the switch is on ACC, the relay energizes, and the batteries connect. The AUX battery would hit 14.7VDC as would the primary battery when the car was running, but the AUX would fall to around 7VDC after the car was shut off, and the primary to between 13.7 and 12.7VDC. So I believe the AUX was sucking all it could when the relay would energize and it eventually killed my primary battery.

ozzy71 · 08-12-2009, 07:13 AM

LOL-- ok... now this makes a lot more sense!!

If the Aux battery has dead cells, it is a 100% drain on the system while they are connected.

During your run time, the alternator is providing enough juice to meet the demand, but you have a hole in your system that it just can't fill. Also, since the primary battery has more voltage in it, it's helping bring that AUX battery up too...

So, the primary battery and alternator spent almost all of their energy trying to fill a battery that was never going to store a charge...

freeflashstuff · 08-12-2009, 11:16 AM

Yep, but(thank God) the alternator is still working, the main battery is shot... But it's ok, because Saul(the guy who did my bezel) gave me one of his old batteries from his Civic. It's "maintenance free," but IDK if it's deep cycle or not. I was putting his new PC together, and he surprised me with it. He came in and said, "So... You've got a new battery now..."

I have pix of it too. It's an MSI gaming MB, AMD Phenom II x4 3.4Ghz processor(quad-core), 8GB DDR3 RAM(Gaming RAM), and everything is EXTREMELY "over-clockable."

It's fas...wait, fast is the understatement of the century... IDK

freeflashstuff · 08-12-2009, 07:57 PM

WOOT! I got the box installed today, I can pick a total of 5 channels in this town of mine, EVEN WHILE GOING DOWN THE ROAD!(not advisable, though

) Just using a small accessory plug inverter to power the DAC, plugged into the Lilliput's VID1 input, and to the BUSIN on the back of my HU for sound. I ordered a switch for the BUSIN, so I can use the CarPC, the DAC, or a friends iPod through it. I am able to use the BUSIN because I installed the adapter (I mentioned it in a previous post) and now if a CD is in, the BUSIN is CD2, otherwise it's just CD.

In other news....

School starts Monday (8-17-09)
With school comes my jobs (both are $7/hr)
-tutoring
-Technical Theatre

That means that more $$$ will be coming in, and I can save up to get the windows re-tinted, and get a new paint job! (Hopefully no one will key it up...)

ozzy71 · 08-13-2009, 08:29 AM

The new battery is great news! I am looking forward to hearing about your run times with the aux battery system!

I still use an inverter—which is a VERY bad idea. The math on the power conversion and heat loss makes leaves me consuming an extra ~70%

From Alternator to PC there are 2 complete conversions!! AC from alternator where it internally converts to DC and produces somewhat clean power. Then, into my inverter which converts it back to AC… then into the power supply, where it converts it back to DC for the PC.

I have not done the full math conversion—but it scares me just how much I’m losing…

I do know, that when I kill the AUX battery, my MPG drops by Miles per Gallon… That equates to 10% of my overall gas mileage, but it is still worth it.

freeflashstuff · 08-14-2009, 11:22 PM

HiJack, I got the GLI today. Is this manual accurate to the GLI you sent me?

Also, I picked up a used Duralast Gold for $34 from the usual suspects today. 30 day warrantee, and it should be a welcome replacement to the 4lb motorcycle battery I was using.

Now I just gotta make it fit...

HiJackZX1 · 08-14-2009, 11:30 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by freeflashstuff

HiJack, I got the GLI today. Is this manual accurate to the GLI you sent me?

Also, I picked up a used Duralast Gold for $34 from the usual suspects today. 30 day warrantee, and it should be a welcome replacement to the 4lb motorcycle battery I was using.

Now I just gotta make it fit...

All I see is squigally lines and charts... lol.... I'll tell you the instructions.... Red goes to red, and white to white. The brown wires are for if the GLI cant get the noise out. Basically they are grounds for the rca ports on the GLI. You will not need to use these wires, the GLI works that good. Simply ignore them.

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