XRLane

Sure no worries, but I was not going to bother as I have not begun to build a carputer yet.

I am just going to forward posts from other forums if thats ok guys, First I will explain the fairlane to you.

The Ford fairlane is a Long wheel base luxury version of Australias Popular ford falcon, It has many extra options that the base model falcon does not include.

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XRLane

Hey all.

I bought this NF a few years back and kept it stock until about 6 months ago when the modding bug hit me







I had always wanted a 5 speed Falcon/Fairlane so I started off with modding a auto pedal box and installing it along with a stainless steel firewall plate for the clutch cable.

















I drove the thing around for about a month with the clutch pedal doing nothing until I got around to buying a T5, at witch time I decided I needed to go one step further.













As you all would most likely know, the AU sump fowls up with the E series K Frames. I have seen the AU sumps modded and even E Series sumps installed on the AU engines, But I decided to mod the K Frame.













I ordered this gearknob and boot off of Ebay intending it to blend in with the cappa interior and woodgrain. But it turned out that it was brighter than in the Ebay pic >.



So it will have to go when I sort something better out at some stage.

I ordered a shift kit from the states.





Thats where Im up to at this stage, Im concentrating on saving up for some wheels at the moment as I am so over the stock Fairlane wheels. after that my next job on the list is fitting an 3.45 LSD and sort out the suspension.

Thanks for reading

Josh

XRLane

Have a look at this

Before


After


Well you guesed it I have back lit door handles!!
Ill run ya through the mod.

I needed a hot glue gun to glue the LED's in the door handles and i got this little beuty at the local hardware for $19.00.



And a few other things



I started by soldering the the resistors to the LED's



This is how they turned out



Then I solderd the wire to the resistors



Here they are all finnished and with shrink tubing on them



Heres a pic of the LED's hot glued to the door handles



This is the wire spliced into the curtisy lamp wiring behind the door trim compleat with shrink tubing



All tidied up



This next pic shows how ive cut the wire and put in spade connectors, notice i made them with 1 female 1 male on each end so you dont plug them in the wrong way. i also added shrink tubing. This is done so for what ever reason you can take the door handle off the car



And some more of the finnished mod







I also had a few casualtys
The passenger door snipper appears to have been repaired at some stage before i bought the super saloon. I put the trim back on without it untill i get another




And the plastic rear window inside cover got broken in 3 places but i forgot to take a photo but here is a pic of it glued back together (just temporary untill i get another) I used loctite 406 its an industrial super glue used for making O-Rings from O-Ring cord.

XRLane

Well I might as well show everyone pics of my weekend. I started out on Saturday by driving down to Lonsdale to pick up a T5 gearbox that was apparently pulled out of an EL earlier in the week for me. Boy was I disappointed when I got there, the first thing I noticed was the gearstick it was from an EA-ED. Then the bell housing had the starter motor on the wrong side and it had 89 stamped on it. When I told him about it he said the box did come out of an El but must be from a conversion someone had done on it, as for the bell housing the young lad working there put the wrong one for me. And the gear stick surround he offered me came out of an EA-ED, I was beginning to think he doesn’t know what he is talking about.
So I declined the gearbox and decided that rather than call it a wasted trip I would go to upullit and see what I could find, as I was in the area anyway.
After looking at least 100 falcons I found one with a clutch pedal, brake pedal pin, fly wheel, rubber boot and clutch fork. They slugged me a hefty $30 for it all, so I went home happy as Larry to start work on my pedal box.
I won’t bore you with all the technical stats at this stage as I will be writing a tech doco for it so here are a few pics












And here it is installed in the car


I also made my firewall strenthener and installed it at the same time. Thanks TROYMAN for you measurements. I made mine from Stainless Steel.

Here are some pics










I had to pull the dash out to install both of these.




While the dash was out I replaced my broken aircon vent



As you may already know I have screwed something up while removing the dash, the car won’t start I have replaced a fuse and tried another BEM but still no go so the car is off to the auto electrician tomorrow. Hopefully he can sort it out for me.
I will let you know how it goes

Cheers

Josh

XRLane

Hello guys did some work on the fairlane yesterday.
A few weeks ago BenJ rewired his gas system, and hid it in a neat spot behind his ECU. My gas wiring is a bit on the dodgy side not in the working sense, it works fine. But it’s a second hand system I had installed for $1500 and with the $2000 government grant how could you lose.
Anyway the wiring is crap so I decided to tidy it up.
These are the 2 controllers for the gas under the bonnet.


As I wanted to use bens idea with tucking it away behind the ECU I bolted them both together.

Then I tried to make sense of the wiring

I bought 4 metres of 7 core wire, the stuff you use for wiring trailers. I soldered the main wiring connector to this and installed it behind the dash.



Now for the messy part, did I mention I hate wiring? I started from the left hand side running wires taping them temporally so I could get it all laid out where I wanted it.



After tinning, soldering and crimping wires, I tried it out before I went any further. No problem, nothing special just the same as it always is... So with everything working I proceeded to mount the LPG controller behind the ECU.



All tucked away

With the controller tucked away in its new home all that was left to do was wrap the new loom in insulation tape and run it through some plastic conduit.



It was so hot outside yesterday, I was inside for a new glass of water every 10 minutes.
Nothing special, But I put a new battery in as well last night

Its 600cca so it really makes a difference when starting the motor. It also has one of those flash sight glasses to check the condition of the battery.

So I thought I would save the best for last.
While taking the factory intake pipe off I realised it had a huge spit down it, and was forced to install the steel one I got the other week.

Because I have gas there is an extra piece on the intake for the gas to be feed into the motor. So being nite time and nothing open I had to improvise, I needed an adapter.

That’s right an ordinary can, most likely to have contained baked beans at some stage.

It wasn’t the best fit so I wrapped duct tape and then insulation tape to make a good seal.


A there you have it, wouldent even know aye.

The car drives allot better with the new pipe. A lot smoother (I was under the impression my gas needed tuning, boy was I wrong) but by no means a permanent fix I have a new idea so stay tuned

Cheers

Josh

XRLane

Well I have good news for me and those of you who are watching this thread!

I found my T5 today. Its coming out of a EF Futura tomorrow and I shuld pick it up in the afternoon.

A couple of pics of the car its coming from.




The car is still driveable as it was driven to the wreckers. Witch means im getting the ECU aswell as the loom, rubber boot and leather boot (I will get retrimmed to suit my cappa interior).

$850 all up witch is pretty good considering I have been having trouble finding one from a EF below $1000, The only one I did find was one from a EA-EB that came out of a EL.

The car has done 249000 K's so I am wondering if i still shuld rebuild it or just take a chance with it.

On another note, Im getting my flywheel machined sometime this week aswell so progress has just stepped up a notch.

Any suggestions on a clutch would be appriciated

Cheers

Josh

XRLane

Thanks mate looks like next weekend provided everything goes to plan.



Off topic I was at the clipsal 500 on the weekend and I was able to score on of those Ford pvc signs



Its sitting on my bar stools and leaning against my bar, shuld look sik on the front of my bar!

Cheers

Josh

XRLane

OK.

I painted my block today, as you can see it needed it.



I wanted to use a brush cup on a grinder for cleaning the rust off, but you cant get it in all the groves and crevises. I ended up using scotch brite cloth and acetone on a rag afterwards.

Hears how it turned out.




Cheers

Josh

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XRLane

Ok update.
Bolted my flywheel and clutch on today. Something I noticed about the flywheels is the holes are not equally spaced on the PCD so it can only be bolted on in one orientation.



I bolted the gearbox up to the engine afterwards only to find none of the bolt holes line up on the sump, I was under the impression that it was only the 2 bottom bolts that don’t.



Anyways here are a few tips on modifying the bell housing and sump to bolt the bottom half of the bell housing on.

This M10 tapped hole in the sump does not line up on the bell housing.


Basically there is enough room to drill a hole in the bell housing. With a centre punch, mark the centre inside the M10 tapped hole on the bell housing mating face. Then drill 8.5 mm hole through the bell housing while being careful not to damage the M10 thread. After this you will need to open the hole bigger with a 10mm drill from the other side, so there will be clearance for the M10 bolt.


As you can see the new hole cuts into the original hole in the bell bousing.

But with a washer its fine.
A few pics of the other side.




Now for the bottom 2 bolts, these are not as easy to modify to fit. But basically there is enough meat in the bell housing to drill and tap a hole with M10 thread so you can use these holes to bolt the bell housing on from the other side.

Drill through this hole into the bell housing deep enough for your M10 bolt with a 8.5mm drill.

Now run a M10 x 1.5 tap through until it hits the end.

You have now cut a new thread in the bell housing mating face you can put your bolt in.

And the same to the other side.


Remember to have the gearbox on and the top bolts (witch do line up) done up, so that all the holes you do drill will be in the right place.
And that’s how to modify a E Series T5 bell housing to an AU motor.
And that’s my effort for today

Cheers

Josh

XRLane

Ok, Well they say a picture says a thousand words.







We started at 10:00am and finished at 4:00pm. There is not a lot of room to get these engines out while the trans is still attached. But on the bright side the engine crane I bought lifts high enough to just push the car away from under it 8-) . I found out my drive shaft is alloy, Im not sure if they are all like that?

I still need to swap the BBM over and other accessories, I have done the power steering bracket But thats it so far.

Although I do have a question for anyone who can help there is a sensor I need to take off the EF motor a stick it in the AU one.



It goes where the dizzy normally goes, I just need to know if the engine needs to set at top dead center to install it on the AU motor?

The other thing is the clamp that holds it on the EF motor is on the oppisate side on the AU engine.



There is an extra sensor on the timing case that replaces the job of this sensor, both sensors have 3 wires, just wondering if you could change it over and use the AU sensor instead. But Im thinking the EF computer wont know what to do with this sensor.

Any Ideas would be great.

Cheers

Josh

XRLane

Day 2
Ok, we sorted out the cam angle sensor. We set both engines to top dead centre, and then swapped them over as per the Gregory’s manual. The bracket is on the opposite side but I had to cut a new grove into it, so it will do the same job.
On the EF motor



And on the AU motor



Then we sorted out the alternator bracket. There is a lug of sorts on the block that is used for the AU alternator. This gets into the way of bolting on the EF bracket.



The solution.... Cut the bastard off!! Then clean off with a file.



Now the block has a few holes missing for this bracket, so I needed to make 1 bracket up for the bottom hole.



The other 2 brackets line up fine.




Then we bolted up the BBM, no problems there. Plugged in the wiring loom and the T5 wiring loom, hooked up the engine mount and coil pack and there we are.



We have left the A/C and the P/Steer pump hooked up in the engine bay so they won’t get hooked up till the engine is in (derr).

After that I cleaned the engine bay and started looking at the K frame. I marked it out and cut it (there’s no turning back now).



That’s it for today, tomorrow I need to fill the hole I cut with 6mm steel, drop the engine and T5 in and start putting it all back together.
Still have 2 days left so we are looking good so far.
Cheers

Josh

XRLane

OK then, I finished the K frame! I'm bloody glad to because I'm nearly out of gas for my tig welder .









Now Im ready for putting the engine in tomorrow morning. Troy you are right about the power steer pump, Ill sort it out once the engine is in the car.

Cheers

Josh

XRLane

Its in!



Im off to fit the drive shaft shortly after having something to eat, and then everything else under the car bar the extractors witch need to be taken out the Ed

Josh

XRLane

Here is the clearance of the K frame to the sump.



As you can see there is more than enough clearance, but I am still happy with it, Like I said Ill Keep an eye on it and if stuffs up. I can mod another one outside of the car and get proper measurements and document them and maybe even sell k frames ready for this conversion

Josh"]

XRLane

Ok then, I sorted out my Alternator bracket.







Now with no need to have the front brace, I was able to change back to the AU power steer bracket with the extra pulley.



And I sorted this out.



Now its starting to look like a manual hehe.

Cheers
Josh

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