2000 BMW 328Ci (e46) - laptop install - Page 6

Hark · 01-11-2006, 11:39 AM

Thanks Wired - I did a rough install of the Parrot yesterday. It had trouble maintaining a bluetooth connection to my Treo650, but I think this is the phone's fault, and am looking into how to upgrade the firmware/software. I did have trouble in that I didn't hear any sound from the speakers. I'm thinking it may be due to the way I have it wired to the PIE audio switcher, so will do some more troubleshooting. Also, I got this note from Parrot support when I asked about the correct way to wire it up (my car doesn't have a car stereo, so I go straight from my laptop to the car amp via SVEN4):

Quote:

Since the 3200LS has not been released in the US, I have no information on it. If you have line level inputs however, I believe that the 3200LS does come with line level wires (probably thin brown and green wires). However, if you install the car kit using those lines, you will also need a mute line in your head unit in order to get automatic muting. I believe the 3200LS also comes with a mute line (probably a yellow bullet-tipped mute wire). If you install the kit using the line levels, the only difference would be that the volume of the call would be adjusted through your radio's volume control instead of the car kits volume control. If you have any other questions or problems, please let me know.

I think this means that I need to chop up the ISO audio harness that comes with it and use those wires for audio rather than the individual non-harnessed wires for audio, if I want the 3200 to be able to control the volume (pretty important since there's nothing else to control it).

Wiredwrx · 01-11-2006, 02:11 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Hark

Thanks Wired - I did a rough install of the Parrot yesterday. It had trouble maintaining a bluetooth connection to my Treo650, but I think this is the phone's fault, and am looking into how to upgrade the firmware/software. I did have trouble in that I didn't hear any sound from the speakers. I'm thinking it may be due to the way I have it wired to the PIE audio switcher, so will do some more troubleshooting. Also, I got this note from Parrot support when I asked about the correct way to wire it up (my car doesn't have a car stereo, so I go straight from my laptop to the car amp via SVEN4):

I think this means that I need to chop up the ISO audio harness that comes with it and use those wires for audio rather than the individual non-harnessed wires for audio, if I want the 3200 to be able to control the volume (pretty important since there's nothing else to control it).

My Pleasure.

The install I did was a little unique but perhaps it will work for you.

The car I installed into is a Lexus RX330, with navigation. When the navi talks, it comes out the speakers on the front right of the car. I easilt located those speakers, and the advantage was that they were in the top of the dash, on the left, where the glass meets the dash. I removed the grill, and the speaker and located the wires. I then cut the wires, and connected some quality speaker wire to lengthen the cars speaker wires to about 10 feet, which I admit was overkill, but I didn't want to have any problems. I then verified that everything still worked, car stereo and navi sound coming out of the speaker. I also knew that I was after the amp, which is important with the Parrott unit I had (3100).

I than ran the wires through the dash to where I intended to mount the body of the 3100. I then hacked the "Mute Cable" by cutting the two same wires from just before the connectors. The mute cable actually has a relay of sorts, that when energized, cuts the speakers connection (the mute cable is inserted between the radio and the speakers using the ISO connectors) and feeds Parrott sound directly to the speaker, and when not energized, allows the radio sound to pass through to the speakers. I then cut the speaker wire I previously connected to the cars speaker, and attached the those wires to the appropriate wires of the "mute cable". It worked perfectly, and will probably work for you as well. The only thing is that the "mute cable" must be installed AFTER the amp. If your amp is easily accessible, it might be easier to make the connection there.

Michael

Hark · 01-12-2006, 10:51 AM

Thanks, this is very helpful. Just to confirm - are you saying that the audio cables coming from the Parrot should also go after the amp? It has enough juice to be loud enough over the speakers without an amp?

Wiredwrx · 01-12-2006, 02:46 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Hark

Thanks, this is very helpful. Just to confirm - are you saying that the audio cables coming from the Parrot should also go after the amp? It has enough juice to be loud enough over the speakers without an amp?

Yes, the MUTE cable is enough to power the speakers, and must be installed AFTER the amp. There was/is (on the 3100, I am not sure about your model though) a "low power" pair of wires, but I didn't end up using them. You can then use the "mute wire" to flip a relay that will cut power to your amp, and that will muts the music from your computer/stereo (since you don't have a HU) Also, you may not want to use the mute wire, because the mute cable will stop the music from going tot he speaker (if installed like I suggested) and will pass the parrott audio similar to a navigation system that still lets you listen to music, but cuts the music to one speaker, and pipes in the navigation audio. That is choice. It can also be setup with a switch, to choose when to completely mute the stereo or not. All just a matter of how much time and energy you have.

Michael

Hark · 01-13-2006, 10:02 AM

More responses from Parrot - they confirm that their kit should be installed after the amp. Here's a wiring diagram they sent me:

It seems as though they want the speaker wires after the amp to be plugged into the input side of the Parrot box, and then inside they have relays to switch the audio over to the phone audio - but only for the front speakers. I'll have to look into getting a relay that will be triggered by the mute line coming out of the Parrot that cuts the speaker line output from the amp before the Parrot. Does this sound correct? Is there a specific type of relay I should be looking for, at RadioShack or something?

Hark · 01-13-2006, 01:09 PM

More updates - Parrot tech support says their unit with the relays inside will automatically mute all speakers (even without hooking up the mute line to anything), even though the diagram above shows them handling only the front two. Guess I'll give this a try, since it will be easier/cleaner than having to add a relay into the mix. Sounds kinda fishy though - We'll see.

Wiredwrx · 01-13-2006, 02:03 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Hark

More updates - Parrot tech support says their unit with the relays inside will automatically mute all speakers (even without hooking up the mute line to anything), even though the diagram above shows them handling only the front two. Guess I'll give this a try, since it will be easier/cleaner than having to add a relay into the mix. Sounds kinda fishy though - We'll see.

IN my install, I only used the parrot wires for the front speaker. IT saved me a whole bunch of time trying to find all the speaker wires, since the amp waws not easily accesible in the car. I then used a relay with the "mute wire" frmo the parrot unit to cut power to the stereo. That pretty much mutes it, you know

. I put the relay in the low power accessory signal to the HU. It was really easy. If you can access your amp, just put the relay in the switched ignition wire leading to the amp. That will turn off the amp, so you won't hear any music. Then just connect the parrott "mute cable" wires that you want. You probably only need to connect to one speaker, like the front drivers side. That should be more then sufficient.

Michael

Hark · 01-15-2006, 12:16 AM

Ok - so in my case the single yellow mute cable will trigger a relay to shut off the amp, and I will splice the audio output of the Parrot to the front two speakers. What's the best way to splice into speaker cable? And when I do, doesn't that mean that when the amp's active, it'll be sending current back up the parrot speaker wires, and is that bad? Is there any sound degredation when I do this sort of splicing?

Wiredwrx · 01-15-2006, 03:03 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Hark

Ok - so in my case the single yellow mute cable will trigger a relay to shut off the amp, and I will splice the audio output of the Parrot to the front two speakers. What's the best way to splice into speaker cable? And when I do, doesn't that mean that when the amp's active, it'll be sending current back up the parrot speaker wires, and is that bad? Is there any sound degredation when I do this sort of splicing?

Well, in essence, the parrot "mute cable", which is different thent he parrot "mute wire". The mute cable has an ISO connector on it. The mute wire connects to the mut cable depending on which wire int he ISO connector mutes the stereo, but since we have no ISO connectors, don't worry about that.

The "mute cable" has an "input" from the amp, and an "output" from the amp. When the parrot doesn't need the speaker, it just lets the sound pass from the "input" to the "output", as if the "mute cable" isn't there, and the parrot is not connected to it. But, when the parrot needs the speaker, it cuts the connection, and feeds parrot sound out the "output" directly to the speaker. The parrot "mute cable" is designed to do that and is designed in a way that the power from the amp/speaker will not feed back.

The yellow "mute wire" must be connected to a relay. The mute wire supplies a negative signal, so the relay must get power from a 12 volt source from somewhere. I would suggest getting the power from the switched ignition sense of the amp you are using, also sometimes called the "amp turn on" or something to that effect. (just check for polarity, I guess the amp turn on can be a ground in some installations. You can always use a constant positive for the relay if need be, since the relay will only be energized, and drawign power, when the parrot "mute wire" is grounded, which only occurs when the parrot unit is doing soemthing)

Connecting to the speaker wires is should be the same as any other connection. Just cut, strip, and connect. I like to solder connections when possible, but something like a "butt connector" will do fine, as long as you make a good, tight connection.

There should be no degradation is sound quality. I haven't been able to hear any, at least. But I am no audiophile. Let me know if you notice a loss in sound quality.

Michael

srcstc · 02-26-2006, 01:12 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jedi7001

Hark, I tried the tape thing, just did not cut it. I am going to try the "pin" option this weekend and let you know how it goes.

I have a new version Bezel that you don't need the pin and has beefed up mounting holes. Lemme know if either of you (jedi7001&Hark) want to swap yours out for the new version (no charge of course, just pay shipping).
You can even get the Power and LED holes if you want.

Rich

Hark · 02-28-2006, 10:25 AM

Really nice of you - I'm in, can't wait!

Hark · 03-26-2006, 10:43 PM

Time for an update: got the Parrot bluetooth kit installed and working properly. Replaced all the speakers, put in a new amp. Installed a backup camera in the trunk keyhole. Bought a headunit (mounted in trunk), running the PC through the aux-in, MAJOR sound quality improvement from going straight to the amp.

To do: hook up car antenna to headunit for fm radio; install girder/UIRT to make pc control hu volume, source, fm presets; make trunk liner cover to hide components in trunk; take lots of pictures and finally make a "show off your project" thread.

BimmaDrew · 03-29-2006, 10:10 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Hark

Replaced all the speakers, put in a new amp. Installed a backup camera in the trunk keyhole. Bought a headunit (mounted in trunk), running the PC through the aux-in, MAJOR sound quality improvement from going straight to the amp.

What HU are you using? You had and Audigy 2NX, right? (it's been a yer since I saw your setup, so I don't remember and I'm too tire to read the rest of this thread). lol But that wasn't putting out enough sound even after the stereo system and amp??...what amp and speakers are you using?

I guess I'll find out for myself how well it sounds.

Quote: Originally Posted by Hark

got the Parrot bluetooth kit installed and working properly.

I have a Treo too...ur saying it worked? WOOHOO. Now can you hide it and control it through the carputer frontend? THAT is the question.

Quote: Originally Posted by Hark

take lots of pictures and finally make a "show off your project" thread.

SWEEEEEEEEEEET! I'm definitly looking forward to that!

or better yet, another ATL meet (with me in town finally).

MoonShiner · 04-18-2006, 06:41 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Wiredwrx

My Pleasure.

The install I did was a little unique but perhaps it will work for you.

The car I installed into is a Lexus RX330, with navigation. When the navi talks, it comes out the speakers on the front right of the car. I easilt located those speakers, and the advantage was that they were in the top of the dash, on the left, where the glass meets the dash. I removed the grill, and the speaker and located the wires. I then cut the wires, and connected some quality speaker wire to lengthen the cars speaker wires to about 10 feet, which I admit was overkill, but I didn't want to have any problems. I then verified that everything still worked, car stereo and navi sound coming out of the speaker. I also knew that I was after the amp, which is important with the Parrott unit I had (3100).

I than ran the wires through the dash to where I intended to mount the body of the 3100. I then hacked the "Mute Cable" by cutting the two same wires from just before the connectors. The mute cable actually has a relay of sorts, that when energized, cuts the speakers connection (the mute cable is inserted between the radio and the speakers using the ISO connectors) and feeds Parrott sound directly to the speaker, and when not energized, allows the radio sound to pass through to the speakers. I then cut the speaker wire I previously connected to the cars speaker, and attached the those wires to the appropriate wires of the "mute cable". It worked perfectly, and will probably work for you as well. The only thing is that the "mute cable" must be installed AFTER the amp. If your amp is easily accessible, it might be easier to make the connection there.

Michael

Wiredwrx do you have a touchscreen lcd in the rx330? I'm trying to do an install into an rx330 but have no idea where to put the lcd. Looking for some ideas.

Any info is appreciated.

Thanks!

Wiredwrx · 04-18-2006, 07:05 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by MoonShiner

Wiredwrx do you have a touchscreen lcd in the rx330? I'm trying to do an install into an rx330 but have no idea where to put the lcd. Looking for some ideas.

Any info is appreciated.

Thanks!

Confused

The only thing I did to the RX was install the Parrott BlueTooth kit. I have not installed a carputer in the RX.

It has touchscreen Navi, and everything I would want except perhaps for MP3 playback, which I can accomplish with an IPod if I want. Also, the car is my GFs, and well, carputers are not necessarily someting she wants to have to tinker with.

Michael

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