2005 Volkswagen GTI - Page 5

Meelobee · 10-05-2005, 03:58 PM

Wow nice writeup with the pics, I'm doing the cabling in my Golf this weekend, I'm sure I can use some of this

Btw, Is it a Golf 4 or 5 GTI? Your dash looks like a Golf Mk4. And is it automatic gear?

stutter · 10-05-2005, 04:22 PM

I highly doubt you'll have any trouble connecting to that cigarette lighter port back there - as long as the voltage stays pretty constant.

However, you may get some nice alternator whine - but you're going to get that from any power source you use, there are some write ups somewhere about a trunk ground or something like that to get rid of the ****ty noise, but i don't know where they are, etc.

kbyrd · 10-05-2005, 04:54 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Meelobee

Wow nice writeup with the pics, I'm doing the cabling in my Golf this weekend, I'm sure I can use some of this

Btw, Is it a Golf 4 or 5 GTI? Your dash looks like a Golf Mk4. And is it automatic gear?

It's a MkIV. The US 2005 Golf/GTI is the MkIV, we don't have the MkV yet.
I'm trying to make everything so that I can disconnect and return back to stock. I bought an extra Monsoon amp grey connector so I'm not splicing any wires to input the audio. Let me know if you have questions. I've torn it apart and put it back together a few times now.

Quote: Originally Posted by stutter

I highly doubt you'll have any trouble connecting to that cigarette lighter port back there - as long as the voltage stays pretty constant.

However, you may get some nice alternator whine - but you're going to get that from any power source you use, there are some write ups somewhere about a trunk ground or something like that to get rid of the ****ty noise, but i don't know where they are, etc.

We'll see. I expect the M1-ATX to take care of most of the incoming noise since it's regualting power right?

WebDog · 10-05-2005, 05:08 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by kbyrd

It's a MkIV. The US 2005 Golf/GTI is the MkIV, we don't have the MkV yet.
I'm trying to make everything so that I can disconnect and return back to stock. I bought an extra Monsoon amp grey connector so I'm not splicing any wires to input the audio. Let me know if you have questions. I've torn it apart and put it back together a few times now.

We'll see. I expect the M1-ATX to take care of most of the incoming noise since it's regualting power right?

hey where did you get the monsoon amp connector?

ill be getting my GTI in a few days

going to put the deposit after work today so they can bring it from a sandiego dealer....

the M1-ATX does pretty good with nosie (i dont notice any), i get my noise from my amps in my current car..

Also what LCD housing did you do?

Thanks

Bugbyte · 10-05-2005, 05:46 PM

I used the cigarette port in the back of my Beetle for powering my Epia M10000 and never got any noise or problems with it. Well, except that I used an ITPS originally. After that was corrected, it worked without issue or noise. I expect you'll be fine.

I like your disclaimer about doing it, though.

kbyrd · 10-05-2005, 06:05 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by WebDog

hey where did you get the monsoon amp connector?

I bought it from the parts department at a local dealer. There's a tiny part number stamped on it. But, I decscribed it, the parts guy looked at my car, and then pulled it up on the computer. It turns out that part is used a lot in the car (the ECU, some other places), so it's not called "24-pin grey monsoon amp connector"

I'll post the part numbers (I also bought the wire leads with the correct pins that just insert and lock into place) and maybe pictures when I get a chance. The whole thing (including the wires which were the most expensive part), cost me $24 and took 2 days to get in stock. The parts guy rocks, really put a lot of effort into it for a $24 sale.

kbyrd · 10-06-2005, 09:33 AM

A couple of people (online and offline) have asked where I got the duplicate Monsoon input harness. Here are some details:

Here's what I ordered:
- 1 of 1J0-962-624-A. This is the grey connector itself, no wiring.
- 6 of 000-979-131. This is wire with female pins that lock into the connector. I only needed 4 (see below) but bought extra.

My total including tax was $24.30.

A pic of the harness with flying leads:

A pic of just a single wire part (000-979-131). The pins just snap into place.

There are a couple of notes on ordering and making this:
- The connector is used in various places in the VW. So, it's not going to be labeled "Monsoon connector". I think my parts guy called it "24-pin ECU something something". I am sure the part number I listed above is correct. I'm looking at the bag the part came in and it's also stamped on the original connector.

- Each wire part is a 24" double ended piece. See the second pic above. If you cut each piece in half you have two usable 12" pieces. One pin clicks into the grey connector, then strip the other end so you can apply whatever connector you want. Since you need eight pins, you only need four wires.

- Because the 24-pin grey connector used in various places there are various wire part numbers for it. They're all a bit different. Some have male pins, some have female, some are bigger gauge, some are smaller, some pins look all silver, some look copper or gold plated, etc. The parts guy and I studied my stock connector and guessed as best we could. I'm sure I need female pins (that's obvious), and my stock connector's pins look all silver and the wire gauge is smaller (only audio signals remember?) I'm pretty sure I'm right, but the wire part number may not be exact and I haven't tested my connector yet. YMMV.

- Notice how I labeled the wires? I used the following schematic:

Code:

14 LR+ | 17 RR- | 20 LF+ | 23 RF-
15 LR- | 18 RR+ | 21 LF- | 24 RF+

I got a pin-out from a post on vwvortex.com. But, the vwvortex schematic has pins 23 and 24 reversed from what was in my car. I assumed black means "-" to Volkswagen, and reversed my labels. I supposed I should test them all out on my stock connector to be sure. One of these days I will.

BoraXP · 10-06-2005, 09:36 PM

If your interested,Im getting rid of a tm701l 7" LCD from digitalww.com molded into the radio/ ac rack. (im upgrading to a xenarc soon) it is a touch screen but ive used it for a while and it works well.

Zip-Lock · 10-07-2005, 04:51 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by kbyrd

A pic of the harness with flying leads:

I'm actually working on the same thing too. See on part # 1J0-962-624-A how there is that pink insert? When that pink plastic insert in there mine won't fit into the Monsoon Amp. I tried to remove the pink thing and the harness fits and the wires seem to hold tight as they should. I think the pink thing just provides additional stability? It looks like you left the pink thing in yours, does it still fit into the Monsoon?

kbyrd · 10-07-2005, 05:40 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Zip-Lock

I think the pink thing just provides additional stability? It looks like you left the pink thing in yours, does it still fit into the Monsoon?

I haven't tried yet. My car is at the body shop (someone ran a red light), but I'll check when I get it back. I'm 99% sure my stock connector has that too. Maybe a difference across model years?

BTW, have you built the "5V injector" circuit yet? Any pics or advice? Or, did you find some balanced line drivers that are biased to 6V?

Zip-Lock · 10-07-2005, 05:50 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by kbyrd

BTW, have you built the "5V injector" circuit yet? Any pics or advice? Or, did you find some balanced line drivers that are biased to 6V?

Haven't tried the voltage injector yet. I have my whole Monsoon sitting on a test bench. I have to buy the correct wiring harnesses yet to hook it up the rest of the way.

If the signal was balanced then wouldn't it have 3 wires per channel then? I'm confused with that one and asking around with that question trying to understand it better.

kbyrd · 10-07-2005, 06:12 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Zip-Lock

If the signal was balanced then wouldn't it have 3 wires per channel then? I'm confused with that one and asking around with that question trying to understand it better.

That's the thing, balanced audio wire has +,-, and shield (shield goes to ground, + and - both carry signal) right? So I'm not sure. What this thing is. Also, I thought "balanced" implied voltage swings around zero. From what I've read on vwvortex, we actually want a 6V injector since that would bring the - common up to 6V and the + line to 6V plus whatever the signal added.

Are you actually coming out for your NorCal mp3car event or just setting it up from there? Maybe we should hold a Monsoon owners working group to sit down, eat, drink and figure this out.

kbyrd · 10-12-2005, 11:07 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by kbyrd

Quote: Originally Posted by Zip-Lock

I think the pink thing just provides additional stability? It looks like you left the pink thing in yours, does it still fit into the Monsoon?

I haven't tried yet. My car is at the body shop (someone ran a red light), but I'll check when I get it back.

So, I just checked. That pink tab needed to be pushed in a bit. I compared to the original connector, it was pushed in so I did that to my new part. It fits in the monsoon perfectly.

WebDog · 10-13-2005, 01:19 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by kbyrd

So, I just checked. That pink tab needed to be pushed in a bit. I compared to the original connector, it was pushed in so I did that to my new part. It fits in the monsoon perfectly.

YAY thats great to here, gona stop by the dealer over lunch and buy me some cables...

kbyrd · 10-14-2005, 12:05 PM

We really should make this (well not this entry but a "how to connect that crazy monsoon to your car PC") a FAQ. BugByte, you're FAQ master and fellow vw owner, how about it?

I got the 5V injector built "for real". I didn't take pictures, so WebDog is out of luck.

Here's the final description (maybe some pictures later):
- 1/8" audio jack with three conductors soldered on. I soldered a .047 microfarad capacitor in line with the common neagtive conductor. I wrapped all the capacitor/wire joint with a bit of electrical tape to keep the two capacitor leads apart, then wrapped all three wires with more tape (I don't have heat shrink) most of the way to the quick-connect ends. This whole thing is about three inches long. The soldering here turned out great. I thought I was a pro!

- On one half of a small board I soldered the voltage regulator (with heat sink ) down, soldering an input, output, and ground leads to the pins. Once again I crimped quick connects to the ends. The leads are short, the quick-connects ended up sticking off the board by about 1/2 inch, so the whole thing is about a 2-3" square.This is mounted with nylon standoffs right in front of my m1-atx. It'll draw power from my previously made molex->quick-connect harness. I soldered this like ***. It's a mess on the bottom but everything is electrically separated as well as mechanically secure.

So when I mount the PC in the car, I'll run a set of three wires from the 1/8 plug harness to the monsoon harness. I also run a single wire from the output of my 5V regulator to the common - input on the monsoon harness (my harness has two quick-connects in a Y for the common negative input, see pics above.

One thing that made this much easer to layout and think about is that a separated this circuit into two parts. The capacitor "input protection" part and regulator "5V injector" part. Two things made this work well:

- I made the capacitor a part of the 1/8" plug. I soldered it inline with the negative conductor close to the plug. Once there, you can wrap all three (L+, R+, and - with capacitor) leads up with tape or shrink. This separates the "audio source protection" part of the circuit and makes it a part of the 1/8" plug. With this done, all you have left to think about is a 5V regulator.

- I made a Y for the common ground input into the monsoon amp. That is, it takes two connectors. One is the common ground from the audio source (the 1/8" plug), the other is the 5V injector.

No testing yet. Got my new (replacement) LCD this week. Maybe I'll have time to test on Sunday.

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