2002 Mitsubishi Magna VR-X - 15.4" ultrabright LCD, fabricating... - Page 5

BiGGy · 07-31-2007, 05:35 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by sporty_drew

looking very good, I see you've made some progress since i saw this on the fg forums. I've made my skin and am also finishing up a skin for a friend so i can give you a hand if you need it. I was thinking about making a portrait skin since i think I'm going to try what your doing

This would be extra ordinary of you!!!

portabuddy · 07-31-2007, 03:04 PM

i have a 100 pack of 10mm 135000mcd white leds?, out of curocity what is the convertion from nits to mcd?, also what software did you use to convert your screen properly?

BiGGy · 08-01-2007, 07:58 AM

LEDs need resisters to go with, and pcb to solder/mount to. im pretty sure mcd is the same thing as nit. I chose to go many many smaller LEDs then a couple big ones for for better uniformed light.

Via have released new drivers for there mobo vid cards that now support screen orientation, I downloaded and installed them. I then simply went to control panel>display>settings>advanced and it was in one of the tabs up top.

monkeyracer · 08-01-2007, 04:57 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by portabuddy

i have a 100 pack of 10mm 135000mcd white leds?, out of curiosity what is the conversion from nits to mcd?, also what software did you use to convert your screen properly?

1 nit = 1 CdM
1 CdM = 1000 mCd
1 CdM = the amount of light an average candle produces in one square meter.

therefore, your 135,000 mCd led's are equal to 135 nits each.

jsyk

@biggy:

1 inch = 25.4mm

BiGGy · 08-02-2007, 05:07 AM

oh, thanx for the info, that means mine are only 50nit each LED. I should never assume. Do you know how they measure nit, its it the rating of the ccfls added together? Or a measuring device on the panel itself?, I wouldnt mind testing my screen when its done. Yes I know its .4, I just rounded for simplicity.

monkeyracer · 08-02-2007, 05:21 AM

i'm not really sure how they measure it for a panel, pretty sure there's an photosensitive resistor involved, I just searched for the conersion rate, and found those values.
I'd assume the total of all the led's would be pretty close to the final value of nits, but again it's just a guess.

BiGGy · 08-02-2007, 07:14 AM

that means it will be 4000+ nits. The screen will prolly be a white blur at that brightness, gotta buy that dimmer. LEDs arrived today, pretty darn fast for overseas parcel time.

portabuddy · 08-02-2007, 06:02 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by monkeyracer

1 nit = 1 CdM
1 CdM = 1000 mCd
1 CdM = the amount of light an average candle produces in one square meter.

therefore, your 135,000 mCd led's are equal to 135 nits each.

jsyk

@biggy:

1 inch = 25.4mm

AWSOME INFO, I got nothing with my search... I knew that mcd was milli candle power, but i didnt know that nits and CDM where the same, and no way that i will forget that in the future...

pcman · 08-03-2007, 07:58 AM

some great work happenin in here
where did you get the usb wifi card with antenna socket ?
ive seen the ones on ebay and have read reports that there really crappy

BiGGy · 08-03-2007, 09:02 AM

http://www.jefatech.com/product/WL-USB-RSMAP

Ive got a friend using it now on his carputer and he has no complaints, he is also using that antenna.

BiGGy · 08-05-2007, 04:20 AM

photos in order with description...
Thick coat of acrylic high build. Fairing a bit more, sanding with 120 grit, then to 320, filed the screen edges square. Still fits and sits flush. 4th photo showing the other 2 of 4 mounting points automotive push clips to sit in the stock rectangle holes there. Final prime, 60% thinners with high build to give a surface primer. Hit back with 400 dry. Degreased and hit with a double top coat layer of white enamal, 40% thinners. Colour does not matter here as im taking a mold anyway, I need to top coat to rub back smooth. Ill pull a mold of it next weekend.

BiGGy · 08-05-2007, 04:38 AM

LED case fabrication started, 2mm alloy sheet measured and layout out. Cut using the ban saw. Buffed up the inner LED surfaces a bit to help with light. Going to practice my alloy tig welding a bit before I try and weld it together. Ive allowed for a 2mm gab all the way round for a rubber seal that ill source next week.

Took a few shots of the fan/temp controller and LED bars with the mounts that came with.

Few preliminary plans, going to purchase a Fusion Brain and attempt to wire it up to my climate control to give the carputer full hvac control. I will also try and wire up a photosensor to allow for automatic dimming of LED brightness. Thing slowing my upgrade atm is funds, im running dry, I dont want to load the credit card up to much.

BiGGy · 08-14-2007, 05:00 AM

Been playing around with the rally car of late, but im back onto this.

Molding process has began on the dash piece. Any questions about doing your own fiberglass molds dont hesitate to ask

I enjoy helping people fabricate. Ive gone back to picture descriptions to give a better idea.

Once again the reason behind the mold is to get a clean copy of it which contains no 'space wasters'. No wood, no body filler, no cloth, no glues. Just a clean fiberglass copy leaving all the much needed mounting space behind.

Several coats of carnauba wax. Job is layed out on a piece of stainless steel, plasticine is stuffed into the side wall to give an extra wall to meet the plate. I cut the plasticine back smooth using a butter knife.

pva... polyvinyl alcohol.

Several mist coats sprayed at 100psi.

Gelcoat brushed on, two coats 20 minutes apart.

Resin over the gelcoat. I waited till gelcoat was tacky and i could poke and nothing came off, then i waited 5 more minutes after that to brush the resin. Was about 35 minute wait.

Matt came straight after, I got all layers on before the first cured, this is the correct way of doing it. I was on my own and had to rush the coats so no in between pics. About 6 layers of 8oz.

Waited 24 hours to fully cure. Poped the steel sheet off first.

The dash piece took a while, 2 hours of tapping, edging and gently hammering it finally came off. Need to still clean the plasticine off and pva but the surface that counts is flawless and has no imperfections. The mold was a success

The original piece on the other hand was damaged on the pop, simple repair job if I need it again.

BiGGy · 08-14-2007, 06:11 AM

LED casing squared up, consistently checked for true measurements. Outside to in to reduce warping, tungsten arc welding 2mm alloy is much harder then you think. Tested for holes by filling with water, no holes and looks pretty good imo. The rear pcd casing will have some sort of hinged system, have to still work that out. 3rd pic shows the rubber sealing that will go around the case edge. Will have to start planning the PC component casing soon.

monkeyracer · 08-14-2007, 10:58 AM

again, as usual, Nice work. I really can't wait to see the finished product. For my project, I was thinking of doing a vacuum formed abs piece, but I'd have to make a VF table... Really, I'm waiting on the screen (cash flow issue) and then I can start on the fab.

you could use this mold for anything then, normal fg, black fg, even carbon fiber (or fibre as they say it where your from), or even thermoformed plastics... hmmm... Inspiration?

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