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Old 08-14-2007, 11:52 AM   #76
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Hey BiGGy,

There is some awesome and impressive work going on here mate. Great stuff !!
In truth I probably understand very little of what you're up to, but I tell you what I'm glued to my seat watching.
If/when I tackle some fabrication, I know where my initial questions will be directed.

Cheers,

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Old 08-15-2007, 01:50 AM   #77
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Cheers Long. Ill help you with anything I know when you need it

Quote: Originally Posted by monkeyracer View Post
again, as usual, Nice work. I really can't wait to see the finished product. For my project, I was thinking of doing a vacuum formed abs piece, but I'd have to make a VF table... Really, I'm waiting on the screen (cash flow issue) and then I can start on the fab.

you could use this mold for anything then, normal fg, black fg, even carbon fiber (or fibre as they say it where your from), or even thermoformed plastics... hmmm... Inspiration?

You can get coloured gelcoat or pigment colouring for fiberglassing but its a much more time and money getting this than just picking a coloured enamel at the local hardware shop. Gelcoat is designed to be painted over if needed, it acts as a protective primer. If I wanted it, carbon fiber can be used in place of the gelcoat as the first layer, but with carbon fiber epoxy resin must be used and you will have to vac bag it to get a good result, not to mention how hard to get and expensive carbon fiber is in Aus right now. Im not a fan of the carbon fiber look.

I was thinking of casting this from abs, but gelcoat will not hold up to acetone for the sludge and im not sure on the heating way. I would have had to mold it out of silicon or casting plaster to do this. Im not a casting professional and ive only done fiberglass molds so I dont want to run in the dark here. I chose to do something I know well. There is no real benefit of a plastic dash over fglass other then claiming it to be a factory replacement. I also want to change the colour theme inside my car to a deep red. Paint will stick to gelcoat much better then plastic and gelcoat/fiberglass will last just as long as abs. Thanks for your input though, you got my thinking about it again
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Continued Worklog... Upgrades in progress:
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Old 08-16-2007, 12:21 AM   #78
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wow biggie, good stuff man, pretty cool fiberglass mold too, can't wait to see it fired up, now THAT'S a center console screen
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Old 08-26-2007, 01:39 AM   #79
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Molding finished

Nothing like getting the all clear from the narrow ultra bright guru himself Thanks Turbs.

I was thinking about abs sludge and realised that this PVA realease agent is water based and can withstand acetone with ease. This bezel could actually be made from ABS if I wanted it.

pulled the piece this weekend. My weeks are getting busier and busier, allot going on atm and to top it off my house got sold yesterday so im moving over the next 4 weeks, bit of a clutter atm and explains the slow progress on this. When I settle down in the new house im going to smash this whole project in like two weekends and get it over with. 40 days without a carputer, withdrawals are coming I can feel it.


waxed 5 times.


20 coats of pva, experimenting a bit there. Masked off the rough stuff to stop anything catching. Also masked off the edging of the screen.


Gelcoat brushed on, just one coat, bit of black pigment added to give a gray tinge.


To give an idea of mixing resins for the newbies. Thats 4mg of catalyst in a 6mg syringe to give a 2% mixture in 200grams of resin at 25 degrees. Dont guess catalyst amounts. Waited 30 minutes after gelcoat for a layer of resin.


Broke up some mat and shoved it in.


wet out, wanted to keep it light for the mold, going to add more after the pop.


The excess PVA paid off. I poped this in 5 minutes using only my bare hands.


Trimmed.



Compared to the original, same front, very clean rear.


Once again a perfect fit.

Still to do in the dash: double up the fiberglass for more strength, cut the double DIN out, file the edging, glass mount clips, prime, paint, done.
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Continued Worklog... Upgrades in progress:
*15.4" WXGA LED backlight touchscreen upgrade
*Custom fiberglass dash bezel
*768 X 1024 Narrow RR Skin

http://bigs.omfg.net.au/

Last edited by BiGGy : 08-26-2007 at 01:42 AM.
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Old 08-26-2007, 09:40 AM   #80
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with abs, I was thinking more vacuum thermoforming a sheet into this mold... Drill tiny holes all through the mold, place on vacuum table, heat abs evenly until pliable, place over mold while vacuum is on, wait to cool. Done. A lot easier than trying to melt all those shavings with acetone, and waiting a few days for it to completely cure.

Also, loving the progress that's being made here, it's truly an insipration. Can't wait to see it finished.

One or two other questions:
When you were stuffing the glass in the mold, during wet out did you use a fancy schmancy tool, or just a gloved hand? And when looking for Gelcoat, what would be somethings to look for?
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Last edited by monkeyracer : 08-26-2007 at 09:46 AM.
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Old 08-26-2007, 03:35 PM   #81
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I dont know about that way of doing it, it seams more professional though. I wet out the strand with a brush, a dabbing motion. Once its wet I roll it to get any air out and compact it. There are higher qualities of gelcoat available for higher prices, you can also get tooling gelcoat which is designed to last for 100's of mold pulls. I have only used the cheap stuff and I see no problem with it.
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Mitsubishi Magna VR-X - Whitsundays, Australia
Continued Worklog... Upgrades in progress:
*15.4" WXGA LED backlight touchscreen upgrade
*Custom fiberglass dash bezel
*768 X 1024 Narrow RR Skin

http://bigs.omfg.net.au/
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Old 08-26-2007, 06:06 PM   #82
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Truly impressive work here, im sure the finished product will look factory ! I was wondering why you would sacrifice the climate controls for the optical drive bay ? Surely the PC will have sufficient storage on its drive, so the optical drive would be used infrequently. why not mount the optical drive remotely and have your climate controls within reach at the base of the LCD ?
Waiting for the next update !
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Old 08-26-2007, 07:33 PM   #83
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wow, that's awsome. how is the pva applied, sprayed? does it need a large nozzle or would a 1.3-1.4 work?

does the pva affect painting this piece? is it something that gets washed off the gelcoat afterwards? how will this be finished, paint? what kind of primer are you going to use?

I like that syringe idea, I'm guilty of guessing the ratio part sometimes, sometimes slight variations don't matter much, but when you want it really correct, that is the way to go for convienience, beats measuring with a mixing cup. now I want to go searching for a place to buy a box of syringes
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Last edited by turbocad6 : 08-26-2007 at 07:48 PM.
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Old 08-26-2007, 11:46 PM   #84
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I am going to try the ABS thermoforming technique with my dash, we'll see how that goes.
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Old 08-26-2007, 11:56 PM   #85
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looking great! i can't wait to see the backlight upgrade because I'm interested in "attempting" it also.

p.s. i sent you an im on msn.
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Old 08-27-2007, 02:45 AM   #86
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Got your IM, ive send the email. Thanks for any help

Quote: Originally Posted by coffee_mogul View Post
Truly impressive work here, im sure the finished product will look factory ! I was wondering why you would sacrifice the climate controls for the optical drive bay ? Surely the PC will have sufficient storage on its drive, so the optical drive would be used infrequently. why not mount the optical drive remotely and have your climate controls within reach at the base of the LCD ?
Waiting for the next update !

I troubleshooted climate controls for a long time, my problem was the climate control is way to fat to go under the screen. The bottom of the screen only just fits in itself and reaches all the way to the top so there is no moving it. Turbocad gave me the idea of an overhead console fab, but will be kind of hard in my car as there is no overhead plastic.. just headliner. Im thinking of fabricating it in the center console passenger side, ill measure it up and see if its feasible. Also in the end I wish to have full hvac control via a fusion brain which I have yet to purchase. I can tell im going to have great difficulty doing this so a temporary fab is in order I think. I also need to place my hazard light switch somewhere (legally).

Quote: Originally Posted by turbocad6 View Post
wow, that's awsome. how is the pva applied, sprayed? does it need a large nozzle or would a 1.3-1.4 work?

does the pva affect painting this piece? is it something that gets washed off the gelcoat afterwards? how will this be finished, paint? what kind of primer are you going to use?

I like that syringe idea, I'm guilty of guessing the ratio part sometimes, sometimes slight variations don't matter much, but when you want it really correct, that is the way to go for convienience, beats measuring with a mixing cup. now I want to go searching for a place to buy a box of syringes

PVA has the viscosity of water, its very thin and a 1.3 tip will do fine for spraying, just pump up the psi to a mist spray. Light even coats which flash dry in 5 minutes. PVA can also be rubbed in with a cloth but it wont be as even. PVA is a realease agent and doesnt react with anything and insurese that nothing actually touches the mold. PVA dries like cling wrap, after you pop a mold it will peel off very easy not stick to anything. It water based so it can be washed off with water as well. You can see the cling wrap effect in the first mold pull picture.

Quote: Originally Posted by monkeyracer View Post
I am going to try the ABS thermoforming technique with my dash, we'll see how that goes.

Interested in this technique, pm me when your doing it. Ive been reading up on a similar system for vinyling.
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Mitsubishi Magna VR-X - Whitsundays, Australia
Continued Worklog... Upgrades in progress:
*15.4" WXGA LED backlight touchscreen upgrade
*Custom fiberglass dash bezel
*768 X 1024 Narrow RR Skin

http://bigs.omfg.net.au/

Last edited by BiGGy : 08-27-2007 at 02:49 AM.
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Old 08-27-2007, 03:03 AM   #87
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Quote: Originally Posted by turbocad6 View Post
I want to go searching for a place to buy a box of syringes

You will find syringes at a chemist and they are reusable, you'll only need one. Ive had that one since I started fiberglassing, lettering has worn off but it still does the job.

Quote: Originally Posted by turbocad6 View Post
what kind of primer are you going to use?

Acrylic primer with acrylic topcoat. There are purpose 2pak primers for fiberglass but the costs are crazy, simple acrylic will do the job, try and stay away from enamel with fiberglass.
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Mitsubishi Magna VR-X - Whitsundays, Australia
Continued Worklog... Upgrades in progress:
*15.4" WXGA LED backlight touchscreen upgrade
*Custom fiberglass dash bezel
*768 X 1024 Narrow RR Skin

http://bigs.omfg.net.au/

Last edited by BiGGy : 08-27-2007 at 04:48 AM.
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Old 08-29-2007, 01:00 PM   #88
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Woow, very nice job BiGGy... your fabrication skills are great man....

I have read your entire worklog and I'm starting to do the same thing for my Dodge Caravan. But your work is truly inspiring.... keep up the good work...
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Old 08-29-2007, 02:51 PM   #89
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what, no more progress ?
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Old 08-30-2007, 01:58 AM   #90
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lol gimme a break. Thanks pdloader, link me a worklog when available.

Maybe this will tide you over mogul.
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Continued Worklog... Upgrades in progress:
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*Custom fiberglass dash bezel
*768 X 1024 Narrow RR Skin

http://bigs.omfg.net.au/
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